Esential wiring

[David Love AI27]

I'm pulling the motor in the Mustang... I know nothing about EFI... are the sensors on the exhaust and the oil pan necessary???

[Fbody383]

I'm pulling the motor in the Mustang... I know nothing about EFI... are the sensors on the exhaust and the oil pan necessary???

My $0.02...

O2 sensors probably

oil LEVEL probably not

oil TEMP probably

I'm with you on this fuel injected madness. I was just happy to have the car start and run after having the harness out and cut up.

[michaelmosty]

David, I have almost all my wiring still in the car. I'd suggest keeping it all in and attached.

[David Love AI27]

David, I have almost all my wiring still in the car. I'd suggest keeping it all in and attached.

ROFLMAO!!! TOO LATE... no wiring left to the rear of the car.. gonna do brake light and fuel pump, only... trying to remove all a/c, stereo, and interior lighting... also want to remove all lighting, washer fluid, horn and any other extra crap... found numerous grounding straps, don't think I need any for the hood...

OH, and while I'm thinking about it... the canister at the front, does it need to be there??? can I bypass the hose and disconnect the wires???

[Adam Ginsberg]

I can tell you with complete certainty, you need the grounding straps. It's impossible to tell how many times a poor running car came down to improper grounding.

Additionally, there's a relay in the back for the fuel pump. Some have removed it, others haven't, but it's a pretty big safety feature to retain, IMO.

The canister in the front is a charcoal canister for the fuel system. Plugging up the lines may lead to issues with pressurizing the fuel tank as the vapors expand when hot.

[David Love AI27]

I understand grounding... I was an industrial electrician.... but two grounds to the hood??? I was going to do frame to block to firewall... are you talking about the inertia switch??? I was going to move it within reach of the driver seat so it could be easily reset...

[GlennCMC70]

your on the right track David.

[Fbody383]

are you talking about the inertia switch??? Hey smart GM guys, is this a Ford only factory part? I don't think I saw one taking the Camaro apart.

[GlennCMC70]

it is. and you can buy one and install it in you Camaro.

[mitchntx]

He said "smart", Glenn.

[GlennCMC70]

He said "smart", Glenn.

and your posting why? :roll:

[Rob Liebbe]

Don't forget, this year's enduro will run into the dark. You might want to consider retaining head and tail light wiring as well as windshield wiper wiring, just in case.

[chris-CMC#35]

David,

do NOT go to the trouble of pulling the windshield wiper motor, assembly, etc. I did, thinking I would save a bunch of weight. Nope. Fortunately, I saved everything, and even took it to Nationals with me; thank the Lord, cuz it all went back in. I had pulled all of the wiring associated with the wiper, including the control harness that went to the on/off lever on the column. It was fairly easy to rig a toggle switch, but I have to "time" the "off" just right, or the wiper stops in the middle of the window.

re: sensors - what year is this car? I left ALL of them in my '94 GT, 5.0L.

Listen to Adam: leave all of the grounding straps in. It seems like overkill, but I had one of those gremlins he described, and though it made no sense, it seemed to be related to a missing ground strap.

My two cents.

-chris

[chris-CMC#35]

... are you talking about the inertia switch??? I was going to move it within reach of the driver seat so it could be easily reset...

Why? Based on my understanding of how this switch works, if it EVER gets activated, I'm getting out of my car and give everything a real serious inspection. I can't imagine just pressing the switch and starting up again.

-chris

[marshall_mosty]

David,
I dewired everything in my AI a few years ago. Took a bunch of time, but ended with with a nicer, cleaner installation.

Regarding removing the charcoal canister, I removed all that and haven't had any pressurization problems with the tank. (Just make sure you run dumps to route the exhaust gases towards the ground and not run it into the tank. Been there, done that.)

I have some good ford EFI schematics. If you give me your mailing address, I can copy them next week at work and send them to you. The wire colors are pretty accurate. The only one's that didn't really line up were on the EFI harness going to the O2 sensors and "low oil" sensor in the pan.

Regarding the sensors you need:

Keep:
ACT
ECT

Modify:
TAB/TAD solenoids. You solder in a resistor (can't remember the size, but can find it out for you)

Chunk:
Charcoal canister
Fuel pump relay (I got rid of mine...) Just make sure you put a fuse on it.
EVP (EGR valve)


I also removed the stock starter solenoid and am starting the car with a push button. You will need the "new" mini-starter that came on the 91-93 cars. It's more expensive, but also 7 lbs lighter than the old setup.

There are other wires going to your solenoid that you don't need. The schematics make good sense when you start at the solenoid and work back to the ECU.

[Rob Liebbe]

With regards to the fuel pump cutoff switch at the back of the Mustang, I took mine out. I did not want a relatively light tap from the rear to cutoff the fuel pump and stall the car in the middle of the track. Everything should still get turned of with the master kill switch or the ignition switch manually.

There have been incidents on public roadways caused by having the switch in the car and incidents by not having the switch in the car.

It is up to your own personal judgement.

Marshall - I'd like a copy of the wiring diagrams please. I currently - no pun intended - I have a short I need to chase down.

[David Love AI27]

David,
I dewired everything in my AI a few years ago. Took a bunch of time, but ended with with a nicer, cleaner installation.

Regarding removing the charcoal canister, I removed all that and haven't had any pressurization problems with the tank. (Just make sure you run dumps to route the exhaust gases towards the ground and not run it into the tank. Been there, done that.)

I have some good ford EFI schematics. If you give me your mailing address, I can copy them next week at work and send them to you. The wire colors are pretty accurate. The only one's that didn't really line up were on the EFI harness going to the O2 sensors and "low oil" sensor in the pan.

Regarding the sensors you need:

Keep:
ACT
ECT

Modify:
TAB/TAD solenoids. You solder in a resistor (can't remember the size, but can find it out for you)

Chunk:
Charcoal canister
Fuel pump relay (I got rid of mine...) Just make sure you put a fuse on it.
EVP (EGR valve)


I also removed the stock starter solenoid and am starting the car with a push button. You will need the "new" mini-starter that came on the 91-93 cars. It's more expensive, but also 7 lbs lighter than the old setup.

There are other wires going to your solenoid that you don't need. The schematics make good sense when you start at the solenoid and work back to the ECU.

Marshal: my Email: dlove21261@aol.com

Are you saying that you elimated the solenoid all together and using a HD push button??? I have seen the PBs "burn up" numerous times, is that why the mini starter? think I will stay with the soleniod and carry a spare, my camaro uses a ford solenoid so I might use same to cut down on too many spare parts...

in respose to a number of posts: it is an 89 model GT...

I am rewiring the inirtia switch within reach incase of a rough off that would leave me stopped on the grass in the middle of summer... I would like to restart before the grass starts on fire... I have seen this happen many times over the years at TWS... I would only use it to get the car clear of hazards for inspection at a corner station with a fire ext...

I am leaving the headlights and wipers, just going to use toggle switches...

Switches: ign, starter, rad fan, headlights, guage lights, and wipers


QUESTION: does the CCR require a "rain light" and if so can it be wired for use with the headlights?? I was going to wire the center brakelight to come on with the headlights..

[marshall_mosty]

Are you saying that you elimated the solenoid all together and using a HD push button??? I have seen the PBs "burn up" numerous times, is that why the mini starter? think I will stay with the soleniod and carry a spare, my camaro uses a ford solenoid so I might use same to cut down on too many spare parts...

With the mini-starter, the only thing you have to run down from the PB to the starter is a small wire to trigger the starter mounted solenoid. The downside is the starter is always powered, so if something happens to the solenoid on the starter and it hangs closed... it keeps cranking.

I haven't had any issues in the two seasons with this setup.

[AI#97]

Are you saying that you elimated the solenoid all together and using a HD push button??? I have seen the PBs "burn up" numerous times, is that why the mini starter? think I will stay with the soleniod and carry a spare, my camaro uses a ford solenoid so I might use same to cut down on too many spare parts...

With the mini-starter, the only thing you have to run down from the PB to the starter is a small wire to trigger the starter mounted solenoid. The downside is the starter is always powered, so if something happens to the solenoid on the starter and it hangs closed... it keeps cranking.

I haven't had any issues in the two seasons with this setup.

Mod motor starters have the solenoid on the starter as well. I am having issues with the terminals getting hot from the headers and melting in the plastic end cap. Instead of using a spare starter this time, I fixed it with a HUGE amount of solder so hopefully my intermittant starting problem I had at ECR is now fixed permanantly.

[RichardP]

With the mini-starter, the only thing you have to run down from the PB to the starter is a small wire to trigger the starter mounted solenoid. The downside is the starter is always powered


And that's a pretty big downside. Having the largest wire in the car unfused and always hot has the potential for very bad stuff if it gets shorted anywhere along the line.

I have a second solenoid mounted right at the relocated battery. My unfused always hot line is less than a foot long and well protected from damage. The rest of the path to the starter is dead unless the starter is cranking.


Richard P.

[marshall_mosty]

Richard's method would be very easy to retrofit as well. Run the same wire from the push button back to the "near battery" solenoid and it triggers when the button is pushed and sends power to the starter.

[ShadowBolt]

With the mini-starter, the only thing you have to run down from the PB to the starter is a small wire to trigger the starter mounted solenoid. The downside is the starter is always powered


And that's a pretty big downside. Having the largest wire in the car unfused and always hot has the potential for very bad stuff if it gets shorted anywhere along the line.

I have a second solenoid mounted right at the relocated battery. My unfused always hot line is less than a foot long and well protected from damage. The rest of the path to the starter is dead unless the starter is cranking.


Richard P.


Great idea Richard (should be a rule). My positive lead is unfused from the battery to the solenoid when the switch on the fender is on, and from the battery to the switch when it's off.

Thanks for the idea Richard! Now if someone will come over this wekend and install my new cam, fix my seat mount closer to the floor, and pull my heads off I will move the solenoid. Just a FYI. I ordered from John George yesterday and everything came in today. Great service and prices! Now if I can just get a set of heads from him.........no, forget that.


JJ

[Fbody383]

it is. and you can buy one and install it in you Camaro.

Oh, goody! Does it come in that cool blue Ford color?

[jeffburch]

In my ongoing rewire I installed a 200A fuse on top of the battery.
This thread has alot of good stuff in it.
http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=34419

jb

[ShadowBolt]

In my ongoing rewire I installed a 200A fuse on top of the battery.
This thread has alot of good stuff in it.
http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=34419

jb



Also a great idea!

Thanks Jeff.

[marshall_mosty]

http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/266998.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/266999.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267000.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267001.jpg
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http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267004.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267005.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267006.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267007.jpg

http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/266998.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/266999.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267000.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267001.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267002.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267003.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267004.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267005.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267006.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1280/13638/267007.jpg

[jeremiahkellam]

Now that would have been f'ing awesome to have about 4 weeks ago. Oh well, probably different for a 94 any how.

[Hood]

For you Bowtie guys, there is a similar mod utilizing a Ford starter solenoid. The problem with the GM starter wiring harness is the solenoid trigger wire is only a 14 gauge wire and when heat soaked from the exhaust, the resistance goes up enough to make the voltage drop. Anything less than 12V causes the hard start problem. This is solved by installing a shunt across the large solenoid stud to the small trigger stud. The positive 12V battery cable and trigger wire now are rerouted up to the Ford solenoid. From the solenoid, another battery cable is routed down to the starter. This gives the trigger and starter full battery voltage and eliminates the hot start problem... with the added benefit of having a dead cable to the starter unless it is engaged.

[David Love AI27]

For you Bowtie guys, there is a similar mod utilizing a Ford starter solenoid. The problem with the GM starter wiring harness is the solenoid trigger wire is only a 14 gauge wire and when heat soaked from the exhaust, the resistance goes up enough to make the voltage drop. Anything less than 12V causes the hard start problem. This is solved by installing a shunt across the large solenoid stud to the small trigger stud. The positive 12V battery cable and trigger wire now are rerouted up to the Ford solenoid. From the solenoid, another battery cable is routed down to the starter. This gives the trigger and starter full battery voltage and eliminates the hot start problem... with the added benefit of having a dead cable to the starter unless it is engaged.

Hey thats how mine is wired 8) ... shoulda got a confidentiality agreement signed when you drove my car :x .... hehehe :D ... jk :twisted:

[Hood]

Hey thats how mine is wired 8) ... shoulda got a confidentiality agreement signed when you drove my car :x .... hehehe :D ... jk :twisted:

I actually was doing this in the mid 1980's to fix my Olds Cutlass hot start problem... then a "kit" became available from Summit later on that was about twice the price of just a solenoid and terminals you could buy from Hi/Lo (now O'Reilly's).