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ShadowBolt
06-25-2009, 11:13 AM
At Hallett my car ran hot all weekend. At TWS last year in 107 degree heat after I removed the fan (it was running 230 with the fan) it ran 210 the rest of the weekend. At Hallett it never got hotter than the 80's and even in the mornings at 70 degrees it would get to 240 in less than 20 minutes. In the last race it was at 235-240 and I was about to pull off track when going into Buss stop it died. I was pulled back to my trailer and even after half an hour it would not start. It sounded like no fuel but you could hear the fuel pump come on when I turned on the power switch and it was holding 10-20 psi then when I spun it over trying to start it the pressure went up to 35-40 like it should. I though this was the problem but Rob's does the exact thing. I drove home that Sunday and the next day when I was putting the car and trailer in the garage it still would not start. It sounded like it was about to start but it would not. Jump to this week (with me not doing anything to the car) and I go out in the shop Monday afternoon and it starts right up. Did not even turn a full rotation. It sounds okay but I did find number six plug wire melted on the header. I started the car and it was rich smelling like it was before I changed the MAF. I pulled the plugs and did a compression check. 140 on all holes. All the plugs look fine except number 5 and 6. Five looks like it was running a little lean and six looks like it was very lean (build-up on the ground electrode). I left the plugs out and I'm going to put 24lbs. of pressure on the cooling system and let it sit for a few hours and see if any water ends up on top of any pistons (no water in the oil and no oil in the water). I am going to post the pics of the spark plugs in a little while. Sure could use some help on this one. In R3 I was under Mitch's rear end for most of the race (I know all the jokes this will bring on) and it was running 235. I spun and saw Steve about fifty yards in front of me. I got back on track and until I caught Steve it cooled down to 210. My radiator looks to have lots of fins bent closed but this was not a problem until Hallett? The only other thing that I wonder about is the oil cooler or lack of one. Last year I ran one and this year my engine builder told me most home made oil cooling systems do more harm than good so I have not run a oil cooler this year. Could no oil cooler have caused this overheating? Now I just hope my engine is still okay.


JJ

Fbody383
06-25-2009, 11:42 AM
I have not run a oil cooler this year. Could no oil cooler have caused this overheating?

Heat is heat; removing heat via the oil cooler or interior heater (old days of summer autocross - leave the engine running for a few minutes with the heater on, fan on high) removes heat from the engine.


Last year I ran one and this year my engine builder told me most home made oil cooling systems do more harm than good...

Interesting; i'm getting ready to put in my "home made oil cooling system" which is a fan cooled oil cooler and some hose. I could understand that perhaps a cooler, without a thermostat, on a street car might not let the oil reach operating temp but I don't follow him on the mighty Mustang race car.

What does he recommend you do now that you are running hot?

Adam Ginsberg
06-25-2009, 12:36 PM
Out of curiosity, when was the last time you pulled the radiator, and thoroughly cleaned it?? Meaning, flushed it out, as well as cleaned all the accumulated gunk (rubber, rocks, bugs, etc) from the radiator fins?

About ~2 years after I started racing, I pulled the rad from my car while working on it.....and couldn't believe the accumulation of crap stuck in the fins. It was significant. Now, as a yearly part of maintenance, the rad gets pulled, and completely cleaned - flushed with a hose from the inside, and a good pressure wash (from the engine side, out).

If you have FP, check spark. Since you burned a plug wire, I'd change all of them. AAMOF, when was the last time you did an ignition tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor)?? The TFI module, coil and possibly the distributor itself could be an issue.

I hope you get it figured out, Jerry.

ShadowBolt
06-25-2009, 12:58 PM
Dave,

I have not called him yet but I will before the day is over. Just talked to him about the oil cooler. He said the cheap $100.00 systems have restrictions at the fittings and in some of them the hoses will not flow enough. In this case your better off without one. I will have one installed prior to TWS.

Adam,

The car runs perfect now that it sat a few days. I wish it had stayed broke so I could have figured it out easier. If it stays running like it is I don't know how to figure out what caused it to quit. I have two issues....the first is the cooling and you are not the first person to tell me about the radiator. I will pull it this weekend. I hope I did not damage anything running it that hot. Then I have the issue of the engine stopping and not being able to fire it for several days then all the sudden it starts and runs fine. All of the electrical parts are new except the plug wires and the computer.


JJ

Fbody383
06-25-2009, 03:47 PM
He said the cheap $100.00 systems have restrictions at the fittings and in some of them the hoses will not flow enough. That I believe; good thing I spend $110.


The car runs perfect now that it sat a few days. All of the electrical parts are new except the plug wires and the computer. Could you ever confirm the lower hose wasn't collapsing under suction? Will the computer shut down at high ambient/water temp? Mine wouldn't start for R4 but would turn over. Turned out to be a loose splice in the interior wiring. Was probably loose all weekend but jacking with the clutch switch must have left it in a position to fail, since it did start/run right after I bypassed the switch but not 20 minutes later.

I hate those pesky electrons.

BSEE Class of '90

evarner
06-25-2009, 03:58 PM
The best time to t-shoot is when it's broke. Now there's guessing involved that might or might not be the correct resolution.

Fuel
Spark
Compression

ShadowBolt
06-25-2009, 04:38 PM
Could you ever confirm the lower hose wasn't collapsing under suction?[/quote]

I installed a new one but it did not have a spring in it (the old one did not either.

Your right Eric about spark, compression, and fuel but I can't fix it unless it stays broke or just start replacing parts and hope it's fixed.

Jerry

RichardP
06-25-2009, 05:53 PM
On a Fox Mustang that dies when hot but starts up when fully cooled, the most obvious place to start is the TFI module...


Richard P.

Todd Covini
06-25-2009, 10:03 PM
104 degrees in Beaumont yesterday.
TFI Module left me on the side of the road in the Lighting on the way back from lunchbreak. 3 hours and an $80 flat bed ride home later...please don't mention TFI modules any more. :evil:

(Sorry I missed your call, Jerry)

Rob Liebbe
06-25-2009, 10:03 PM
Second Richard P's diagnosis - but didn't you already change that recently?

ShadowBolt
06-25-2009, 10:03 PM
On a Fox Mustang that dies when hot but starts up when fully cooled, the most obvious place to start is the TFI module...


Richard P.

Thanks for the tip Richard.

Anyone know this? I always thought Aluminum was a way better cooler than copper brass.

Copper/brass has been the material of choice for most radiators until recently because of its superior ability to conduct heat (twice as good as aluminum), greater strength/corrosion resistance and lower cost. Then I read on Howe's web site that their aluminum units are 15% better than copper/brass.


JJ

David Love AI27
06-26-2009, 12:40 AM
Jerry, did you check out the fittings I pointed out on the radiator for trans cooling lines? Could help with cooling the oil. Also, make sure you get some mesh for ALL the openings that go to the radiator.

evarner
06-26-2009, 07:18 AM
TFI modules are really bad and had several leave me stranded in the middle of busy roads or highways.

However, Jerry mentioned that after he trailered the car all the way home it still wouldn't start. TFI might not have been cooled down enough even after 6-7hrs?

I used to carry a spare with me and some canned air (turned upside down to cool it off if I didn't have time to change it). No wonder Ford relocated it to the fender well.

Didn't meant to sound harsh in my first response, but as you can see - lots of guessing going on and you won't know until next time.