Steering Column Help

[way2neary]

Hey Guys,

I need some advice. My current steering column is a solid shaft that is mounted to the bottom of one of my roll cage bars. I put in a new seat that is about an inch higher than the old one and I keep bumping into the steering wheel with my legs. I also can't do a full turn with the wheel without bumping my elbow on the new seat. So, I need to raise the steering wheel. My challenge is that if I relocate the solid steering column shaft above the roll cage bar, it will be like driving Al's RV. Do you all know if there is a steering column shaft with a U-Joint that might work?

[mitchntx]

I don't know what your particular setup looks like, but wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to relocate the knee bar?

Cut 2 joints and move it up an 1".

[RichardP]

Smaller steering wheel???


Richard P.

[GlennCMC70]

AI or CMC car?
What was the need for the seat to stay raised 1" more than before?
A tilt colum would not work in this app?

[RichardP]

Relocating the steering wheel closer or further away from you can also greatly alter the clearances...


Richard P.

[David Love AI27]

Hey Guys,

I need some advice. My current steering column is a solid shaft that is mounted to the bottom of one of my roll cage bars. I put in a new seat that is about an inch higher than the old one and I keep bumping into the steering wheel with my legs. I also can't do a full turn with the wheel without bumping my elbow on the new seat. So, I need to raise the steering wheel. My challenge is that if I relocate the solid steering column shaft above the roll cage bar, it will be like driving Al's RV. Do you all know if there is a steering column shaft with a U-Joint that might work?

I can help... I have some fab experience and a new "connect" with a guy with a complete shop including welders and lathes... he is also versed in welding aluminium... plus I owe you for the room at Cresson.. 8)

[way2neary]

Thank you for the help. It is very much appreciated. The seat was inadvertently raised when I put in a sliding bracket for driver seat adjustment (rather than the fixed mount that was in it before). I'd like to keep the adjust but could always remove it too.

I hadn't even thought of a smaller wheel. If that doesn't work, I may have to go with cutting the bar. I would prefer not to because the bar is the main 2" cross-beam support on the front side.

David, thanks for the offer to help. If you are at TWS today, maybe you can take a look and help assess whether the tilt column would fit in without cutting the bar.

[Boudy]

7.8.2 Any steering wheel may be used other than wooden models. Quick release mechanisms and spacers may be used to move the steering wheel location, but the OEM steering column must be used.

Be careful. I cut the top 5" off of my column in order to add a knuckle for the same reasons. On one hand there was too much slop that I was not willing to deal with and could not seem to add enough bracing to cure. Secondly, someone was all to eager to point out that it was not legal. I did not get it clarified from a director and just replaced it with a new one from ebay with tilt.

Boudy

[GlennCMC70]

Thus the reason I asked if it was for a CMC or AI car.

[way2neary]

The guy who built the car set it up as an AI car.

I talked to David Love at TWS yesterday. The easiest fix will be to remove the seat sliding bracket and move to a fixed mount seat. That should move be down about 1 inch.

By the way, can the seat bolted to the floorbaord or do I need to weld something in?

Thx for the help

[Wirtz]

Bolted should be fine. Use good hardware and the largest possble washers and all that jazz...

[AI#97]

David, now that I am finished with Misty's car...well, the wiring anyway, stop by on the next PDS weekend and we can talk a little more about getting your car prepp'd for AI. Ideally, if you can see, I'd lower the seat, move it back if there is room in the cage and then lower the wheel to you. It's just going to be part of adjusting to a new car that was essentially built for someone else. Not a big issue but when done right, adds a ton of driver comfort and relaxes you so you just drive the car.

[Fbody383]

By the way, can the seat bolted to the floorbaord or do I need to weld something in?
I welded some 1X2 box in to the stock seat mount doublers in my car and bolted the side plates/seat to those.

Personally, I would NOT feel comfortable simply bolting to the stock floor pan.

Take Matt up on his offer; the mustang guys will know better, but find a place to add some reinforcement for the seat mount. Plenty of alternatives in AI.

Maybe something bewteen a cage bar and a stiffener on the trans tunnel?

[Rob Liebbe]

If I remember correctly, there are two small crossmembers running laterally under the seat. Weld a couple of bars longitudinally between these bars, drill and tap holes every inch, drill holes in seat pan to match and you have an adjustable seat. The seat back braces that are commercially available are usually adjustable as well.

If you really think about it, the seat holds you in place under normal loading while racing, the harness and HANS are what restrain you in a crash. Your mounting can be designed with that in mind, but its never a bad idea to build with a little extra strength. I'll be glad to show you my setup at TWS if you haven't gotten resolution by then, or my car is at 290 and Eldridge if you need to see it earlier.

281-413-1948