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View Full Version : Mustang guys running the poor mans 3-link



michaelmosty
05-17-2010, 09:19 AM
Check your heim joint regularly!!
I noticed mine is destroyed and I am researching to see if there is a beefier option in joint. The bearing completely seperated from the shell.
I'm not sure if the bearing let go b/c of pressure or if it was my error with the nut backing off. I always nut and bolt the car after each event and after Cresson I did a "visual" on this part which clearly was a bad idea.

Rob Liebbe
05-17-2010, 09:42 AM
Which nut backed off? Was it the through bolt or the bearing retainer nut? I checked mine last night and the through bolt is ok, but I did not disassemble the arm to check further. I'll check it out, thanks for the heads up.

I for one would like to see a rules allowance for a beefier arm for durability and safety.

ShadowBolt
05-17-2010, 10:23 AM
Which nut backed off? Was it the through bolt or the bearing retainer nut? I checked mine last night and the through bolt is ok, but I did not disassemble the arm to check further. I'll check it out, thanks for the heads up.

I for one would like to see a rules allowance for a beefier arm for durability and safety.

I agree even if it had to be welded so it could not be adjusted at the track.

Like this.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda-adjustable-controlarms-7904.html

JJ

GlennCMC70
05-17-2010, 10:32 AM
I read this rule:

7.33.3 The OEM stock rear lower control arms only may be replaced with "replacement type" aftermarket
control arms. Any aftermarket control arms used must be of fixed OEM length, or adjusted to OEM length
and have jam nuts tack welded or otherwise fixed to maintain the exact suspension geometry of the OEM
control arms they replace. Any spring perch must be of fixed height. The control arms must bolt on using
the OEM factory holes and no cutting, welding or other modifications may be made to the structure of the
car or rear end housing to install these control arms.

And I understand it states lower control arms only. I would ping the powers that be (all Directors) and see if this is an oversite and that the upper was targeted to be excluded from this rule or is this the result of the wording used that created the upper to be excluded.

GlennCMC70
05-17-2010, 10:33 AM
I would love to see a pic of this arm you guys are using.

Rob Liebbe
05-17-2010, 10:43 AM
I would love to see a pic of this arm you guys are using.

Here you go. It's a stamped steel (thin) arm from Ford Parts or from a stock Mustang 79 - 04.

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=1034

The axle end bushing is here. Pt# MUS 207S Possible upper arms are also noted on the same page. Pt# MUS 201

http://www.trzmotorsports.com/fox.html#rear

AI#97
05-17-2010, 01:33 PM
I would love to see a pic of this arm you guys are using.

Here you go. It's a stamped steel (thin) arm from Ford Parts or from a stock Mustang 79 - 04.

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=1034

The axle end bushing is here. Pt# MUS 207S Possible upper arms are also noted on the same page. Pt# MUS 201

http://www.trzmotorsports.com/fox.html#rear

those upper arms look pretty weak....consider the fact all that axle wind up is now going through one arm...also would be concerned about the teflon lining holding up in the heims....the granetellis will make noise but would hold up longer to abuse.

I had good luck with these... http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/product_display.php?gid=125

Summit has them for $129/pair.... You could also weld more gussetts to them...

Rob Liebbe
05-17-2010, 02:29 PM
Weak is the problem. We could modify the stockers or allow an upgrade to the uppers like the rulles allow for the lowers. I wold like to run aftermarket uppers.

jeremiahkellam
05-17-2010, 02:46 PM
Slippery slope...I run the stock upper 4 link set up with no problems...

Want a 3 link rear??...get a S197...

michaelmosty
05-19-2010, 01:37 PM
http://lh3.ggpht.com/__MOfWNk4lCY/S_IcZAW4eEI/AAAAAAAAAiU/LNVhHRKPC6k/s800/busted%20heim%20joint.jpg

Rob Liebbe
05-19-2010, 03:11 PM
Where did the threads go?

What brand bushing was that?

Did you Loctite it in place when you originally installed it?

What size bolt do you run? My bushing required a 1/2" bolt, the original Ford bolt was a smaller metric - M12?. I drilled the hole in the upper control arm out to match the 1/2" bolt. Using the smaller Ford metric bolt in the 1/2" bushing would allow slop that I did not want.

I'm running the TMZ brand and "loctited" the nut on. I inspected mine last night and it looked good. I also looked at the upper control arm and it seems to be holding up well. I carry an extra bushing and extra upper control arms to the track.

michaelmosty
05-19-2010, 03:37 PM
Where did the threads go?

What brand bushing was that?

Did you Loctite it in place when you originally installed it?

What size bolt do you run? My bushing required a 1/2" bolt, the original Ford bolt was a smaller metric - M12?. I drilled the hole in the upper control arm out to match the 1/2" bolt. Using the smaller Ford metric bolt in the 1/2" bushing would allow slop that I did not want.

I'm running the TMZ brand and "loctited" the nut on. I inspected mine last night and it looked good. I also looked at the upper control arm and it seems to be holding up well. I carry an extra bushing and extra upper control arms to the track.
The threads in the nut are still partially there but pretty banged up.
It was a Steeda bushing.
I did use red Loctite when I originally installed it.
I used the stock bolt in it. That might have been part of my problem although I didn't feel any slop in it previously. Maybe the Steeda bushing was machined to use the M12 bolt???

marshall_mosty
05-19-2010, 05:02 PM
7.33.3 The OEM stock rear lower control arms only may be replaced with "replacement type" aftermarket
control arms. Any aftermarket control arms used must be of fixed OEM length, or adjusted to OEM length
and have jam nuts tack welded or otherwise fixed to maintain the exact suspension geometry of the OEM
control arms they replace. Any spring perch must be of fixed height. The control arms must bolt on using
the OEM factory holes and no cutting, welding or other modifications may be made to the structure of the
car or rear end housing to install these control arms.

I'm sure this rule was written by a 4th gen CMC Cam/bird owner that didn't know a car company would build something so archaic that it wouldn't use a T/A from the factory and would need uppers... 8)

Nuttin' but lub....

Jeremy Gunter
05-19-2010, 05:09 PM
this rule was written by a 4th gen CMC Cam/bird owner....
Nuttin' but lub....

I thought all rules were written by the GM guys? 8)