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rleng1
05-01-2012, 09:45 AM
Any one know of a good machine shop in the Spring, TX (north Houston) area that can work on heads.
Thanks

Casey_SS
05-01-2012, 10:14 AM
Give Dave Neary a call or PM. He did a lot of asking around about Houston machine shops for his motor and can at least give you the names of the commonly recommended ones.

BryanL
05-01-2012, 10:31 AM
Randy keep in touch with me about the LS stuff. I wanted to talk to you about this before you take things somewhere so keep me in the loop. You have some great options in Houston that specialize in LS engines and have good reputations.
My first recommendation would be:
http://latemodelengines.com/
second
http://www.hkracingengines.com/index.php

BryanL
05-01-2012, 10:34 AM
Also-here is a website with great writeups on how to take off the intake, heads, etc.

http://ls1howto.com/

Rob Liebbe
05-01-2012, 02:55 PM
Randy,

A friend just had some LS head work - porting - done at a shop on 2978/Hufsmith Kohrville south of 2920. It is on the west side of the road. I'll try to dig up the contact number.

BryanL
05-01-2012, 03:32 PM
I would still do a leakdown to see where the problem is. Then drain the oil and have an analysis done. I would hate to pull the heads and get it going only to find out the bearings are gone. This will be the opportunity to get the oil temp gauge going, too.

rleng1
05-01-2012, 04:13 PM
Excellent stuff. I have the how-to and have already been in contact with LME. They seem pretty good, and we dyno'ed there earlier this year. The leak down test would tell me where the problem (water) is?

BryanL
05-01-2012, 04:36 PM
You may find water when you are pulling out the plugs. Same goes for having water in the bottom of the oil pan. Leakdown would tell you which cylinder has the issue-if its leaking then you will hear the air in the exhuast if its a valve. If its the head I think you will hear it in the cooling system or making bubbles. It's extra time to do it but then you have a baseline for your motor's health and will identify where the problem is. Maybe you only have to pull one head?

If you can replace the k-member this won't be that bad. The how-to is excellent to have if you have a laptop/phone while out in the garage.

Tough to find a place better on the LS than LME. Though I thought you did your dyno at LMR-(Late Model Racecraft)-they use LME for their engine stuff.

Rob Liebbe
05-02-2012, 07:31 AM
http://www.510raceengineering.com/

mitchntx
05-02-2012, 10:05 AM
Excellent stuff. I have the how-to and have already been in contact with LME. They seem pretty good, and we dyno'ed there earlier this year. The leak down test would tell me where the problem (water) is?

My experience with performance oriented shops is they can't comprehend NOT building power.
Be careful here Randy ... you may be suprised when it comes dyno time.

You might look into head gaskets that are thicker than stock to reduce compression.

Less compression means less power and less restriction which means better throttle response and fewer PCM related compensation issues.

Also, less compression would equate to less vulnerability to pinging when the hot Texas sun is beating down.

rleng1
05-03-2012, 10:01 AM
Good stuff, thanks Mitch and others.
Any thoughts on upgrading springs and lifters. We ensure that they don't touch the ports because you know how they like to make power.

BryanL
05-03-2012, 10:45 AM
LS6 Springs, LS7 Lifters and stock head gaskets.

Cody Powell
05-03-2012, 05:55 PM
Improved racing baffle, Katech Rod bolts and Katech ported oil pump:) Throw that oil temp gauge in the trash....what are you going to do? Slow down when it gets hot psshhh

BryanL
05-03-2012, 06:59 PM
Improved racing baffle, Katech Rod bolts and Katech ported oil pump:) Throw that oil temp gauge in the trash....what are you going to do? Slow down when it gets hot psshhh

Didn't you just blow up a motor? He is just doing the head gaskets and not a whole motor I agree and use the katech rod bolts and oil Pump too

Cody Powell
05-03-2012, 09:41 PM
Look BL we are arm wrestling over that stupid sway bar!! Yeah I did and it was Tommy's fault.
Take a look at those bearings Ole English

rleng1
05-04-2012, 10:58 AM
Already have installed ported oil pump from Thunder Racing. Hopefully just need heads serviced with new springs and lifters.
Cody, my car did the same as yours. Got hot after 3-4 laps. Only difference is that I put it in the trailer on Sunday.
Any other advise....I'm all ears. Thanks.

BryanL
05-04-2012, 11:36 AM
Look BL we are arm wrestling over that stupid sway bar!! Yeah I did and it was Tommy's fault.
Take a look at those bearings Ole English

So you want to arm wrestle and blame it on Tommy? What sandbox are we playing in here? I would rather slow down and save due to a water/oil temp guage than blow one up and oil down the track.

I would drain the oil and see how much water comes out. If you decide to put it back together with just the heads then put some cheap oil in it and run it a little while-then drain and do another oil change. Also-go with a higher quality oil than the Mob 1.

Cody Powell
05-05-2012, 09:33 AM
We just got mine apart, 5 and 6 rod bearings took out the motor, the rest were perfect?
I'm still not sure why it was getting hot..thermostat???
Ryan thinks it was the oil catch can fiasco that hurt mine, when you run them 1 1/2 quarts low on oil that tends to happen.
Randy please steal the 50 and punch BL for me, thanks.
Do you have a baffled pan?

GlennCMC70
05-05-2012, 11:29 AM
5 always goes first on LS1's.
Stock fill on an LS1 is 6qts. You must run 7 in an LS1 for track use. Add more for oil coolers and such. I run 8qts in my LT1.

Storm Trooper
05-05-2012, 11:37 AM
I have a set of 241 ls1 heads stock cheep :D I have no need for them iyi
Sean



Any one know of a good machine shop in the Spring, TX (north Houston) area that can work on heads.
Thanks

rleng1
05-05-2012, 02:48 PM
Storm Trooper, I may need them in a few days once I get mine out a take a look at them.
Thanks.

rleng1
05-05-2012, 02:51 PM
We just got mine apart, 5 and 6 rod bearings took out the motor, the rest were perfect?
I'm still not sure why it was getting hot..thermostat???
Ryan thinks it was the oil catch can fiasco that hurt mine, when you run them 1 1/2 quarts low on oil that tends to happen.
Randy please steal the 50 and punch BL for me, thanks.
Do you have a baffled pan?

Yes, I have a baffled oil pan. Hard to figure that the oil catch can was making your car to run hot. Did you see any issues with the head gaskets? Mine was running hot because I was losing water from radiator.

Cody Powell
05-05-2012, 02:57 PM
The catch can wasn't making it hot, it was just his opinion on why I lost the motor. Cause of all the oil I lost.
We still can't figure out why it was running hot? It hasn't ever run hot. Oh well.