Engine Block Cracked

[64GunPilot]

Well the JB Weld kept the cracked water jacket sealed for 5 track events, the last one being Hallett. It finally failed. I think its time to pull the engine, grind all the JBWeld off and try MuggyWeld 77 welding sticks to seal it up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezfKJCqRrPQ

Apparently a lot of boat engines and exhaust manifolds get repaired this way. Maybe its worth a shot. Hopefully when I rejoin you guys August 2020, the car will be ready to rock and roll into COMP School. The question is, after being away for a year, will I be ready. Probably not. But at least I got something to look forward to.

Anyone in Austin area got an ARC welder? I just bought a MIG, but that wont work for this project.

[ShadowBolt]

I have TIG and MIG and guys that can really weld but no ARC welders.

Jerry

[y5e06]

all tigs can be run as stick welders. they probably have the stinger in a box somewhere and just never use it.
I'd rather TIG it with that rod than stick weld. you can remove the flux and TIG using that as filler rod. You may want to preheat before the repair, but a block is awful big.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUbzw6p83Q
I have a TIG (and stinger for stick) but I'm way south and Jerry's guys are likely far more skilled.
Stick, MIG, and TIG are all arc welding
SMAW - shielded metal Arc Welding - Stick
GMAW- gas metal Arc Welding - MIG
GTAW - gas tungsten Arc Welding - TIG

Other repairs use high nickel content filler rod for cast iron. Cast iron is hard. it can be full of crap and there are many grades. I've used Si-Bronze and Al-Bronze, but it still isn't as easy and the interweb makes it look.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/welding-cast-iron.html

[ShadowBolt]

And all this time I thought arc welding was only stick welding. I guess all or most welding has to strike an ark. I also had no idea our Miller TIG welders could stick weld. I have been doing this for 36 years and we have never done it.

Heating the block could be an issue unless it's a small enough crack to heat with a rosebud. I would think you would need to control the cooling but obviously I know very little about welding. I have never struck an ark in my life.

JJ

[Supercharged111]

Or he could do a 5.3 swap? :cool:

[64GunPilot]

Or he could do a 5.3 swap? :cool:

I have considered it. I want to put a season or two on the TPI. First loves die hard.

[64GunPilot]

Has anyone ever tried brazing? I am thinking to open up the cracks with a dremel, and then braze with Muggyweld SSF-6 brazing rods specifically for cast iron using a torch. Maybe I can preheat the assembled engine from the side using a propane IR heater so there wouldnt be any shock heating/cooling.

I just need to seal up the cracks, not to concerned about structural rigidity. I been back from Iraq since July, its time to start getting the car back into shape. Would like to make the ECR in December for HPDE. Will be the first time driving on 17" RR's (thanks Michael Mosty for the donation). Maybe comp school early next year to join you guys for the 2021 season.

[Fbody383]

Where is the crack?

I did some quick google about welding/brazing/soldering. I've done some copper pipe, but not much. Heat up the spot enough to melt the brazing rod and let it draw... Are you worried the fix will break it more... if it's not usable, clean it up, braze it and send it.

ECR is slick from the dust so a little water might improve some places.

[Gerno]

I think it would be just as easy to find a 305 block and have it bored/honed to your piston size and swap the internals over. Have you ever assembled an engine in the past?

[Gerno]

This is in Waco. I'd just grab it and throw your TPI/accy's on it and see what happens, can't be worse than a cracked block and I bet you can get it much less than asking price. At least then you're on track and getting some practice in.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/675025250081624

[64GunPilot]

This is in Waco. I'd just grab it and throw your TPI/accy's on it and see what happens, can't be worse than a cracked block and I bet you can get it much less than asking price. At least then you're on track and getting some practice in.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/675025250081624

Yea, Sean has a good 305 as well I’ve considered buying. This engine I have runs amazing and was super reliable. Just had a water jacket freeze damage. Ran it for a whole season with JBWeld gooped over the cracks with almost zero preparation (trackside repair). If I can just seal up this block I feel she’ll last for a good long time.

[64GunPilot]

Or he could do a 5.3 swap? :cool:

Ok ok. Going LS now. Always told myself as soon as this 305 lets loose I’ll do the swap. Now the lower end is gone. Talked with Sean at length about rebuilding a 305 core of his and continue with the TPI…..but…… I’m buying a whole turn key 5.3 today. Still not sure if I’ll go T56 or stick with the T5. Definitely gonna be on a budget (is that a thing). My goal is to get this car up and running reliably and do a DE to shake it down before October deployment. This way when we get back in July 2022, the car is solid and ready.

[Fbody383]

Still not sure if I’ll go T56 or stick with the T5. Unfortunately it appears the data says you WILL break the T5. I think Sean has a bellhousing/clutch/T5 setup for the LS laying around the shop.

I mean, you could just drive slow and controlled and nurse the T5... probably better for me... I mean you.

[Supercharged111]

Could do a TKO or TKX (unofficially).

[64GunPilot]

I have heard the T5 doesnt handle LS too well. Im sure I'll end up with a T56. Its the easy button. I saw an LT1/T56 combo on for $3500. Was thinking about it. But I already have this 5.3.

If anyone sees or knows of a reasonable T56 forsale please let me know!!

[Supercharged111]

I have heard the T5 doesnt handle LS too well. Im sure I'll end up with a T56. Its the easy button. I saw an LT1/T56 combo on for $3500. Was thinking about it. But I already have this 5.3.

If anyone sees or knows of a reasonable T56 forsale please let me know!!

You can buy the whole damn LT1/T56 car for less than that if you're patient.

[Sook]

I have heard the T5 doesnt handle LS too well. Im sure I'll end up with a T56. Its the easy button. I saw an LT1/T56 combo on for $3500. Was thinking about it. But I already have this 5.3.

If anyone sees or knows of a reasonable T56 forsale please let me know!!

You may know this already but just in case, the LT vs LS T56s are different.

- Josh

[Supercharged111]

You may know this already but just in case, the LT vs LS T56s are different.

- Josh

I think I priced the parts to convert one last year at $600, but it's a full teardown to do it.

[Fbody383]

I think I priced the parts to convert one last year at $600, but it's a full teardown to do it. some will say you can just pull the front plate and swap it and the input shaft. We're in the camp if you're pulling it apart look at everything and shim it anyway. Since we starting shimming 2-3 thou tighter than factory we've had fewer issues.

[39PitCrew]

some will say you can just pull the front plate and swap it and the input shaft. We're in the camp if you're pulling it apart look at everything and shim it anyway. Since we starting shimming 2-3 thou tighter than factory we've had fewer issues.

And don't forget to marinade the blocker rings.

@David:
Do I remember right that on one rebuild we had some issues measuring for shims because usually the trans was dry but on that particular one there had been trans fluid in it and we kept getting different readings on the dial depending on if we spun the shaft or not? If I recall, it made 1-2 thou difference in the measurement.

[Fbody383]

trans fluid in it and we kept getting different readings on the dial depending on if we spun the shaft or not? If I recall, it made 1-2 thou difference in the measurement.I think that's right... after we moved everything around whatever was in bearings/spacers/etc. would move some oil around and change the readings.

[fscott]

Has anyone ever tried brazing? I am thinking to open up the cracks with a dremel, and then braze with Muggyweld SSF-6 brazing rods specifically for cast iron using a torch. Maybe I can preheat the assembled engine from the side using a propane IR heater so there wouldnt be any shock heating/cooling.


I've TIG welded cast iron once, using specialty rods. I got away without preheating. The trick there was to put down some weld, and then immediately grab a hammer and punch and start beating on the weld bead as it cools. Then repeat as needed until done.

When you weld cast iron, the weld shrinks enough to pull away from the base metal, which is why you normally preheat the entire workpiece. But by peening the metal as it cools, you're forcing it into the gap that's trying to open.

I agree with others, a new block is probably better. But I thought you might want to know this trick in case it ever comes up.

[64GunPilot]

LM7 5.3 Engine, intake manifold, throttle body, injectors, exhaust manifolds, and T56 transmission all bought and paid for. Still needing a lot of other stuff, the $$$ is starting to add up and Im starting to think maybe I would have been better to just do a new 305 shortblock. I enjoyed being slow with the 305 TPI, at least I had an excuse. But after an LS swap I wont have any excuses. I'll just be slow and broke LOL.

[Supercharged111]

Still gotta do the oil pan, accessories, cheater short 5th, and electronics. It's all on my white board and it makes me throw up in my mouth. After Hallett I seriously question if it's worth it.

[64GunPilot]

So, after a complete teardown of my junkyard 5.3 I've measured the bores after ball honing. Im 0.0015 out of round (1.5 thousandths) and the piston to wall clearance is about 0.005. New standard pistons should bring it down between 0.002 - 0.003 but thats the best Im gonna get before having to go full bore and upsize and rebalance at the machine shop.

Anyone here think 0.0015 out of round is a problem? New pistons (hypereutectic) and send it?

[Supercharged111]

I think you should have left the pistons in the holes, checked a couple of bearings for copper, and sent that lump. There's plenty of money to spend elsewhere in the swap. They usually out down around 275whp junkyard fresh.

[64GunPilot]

I think you should have left the pistons in the holes, checked a couple of bearings for copper, and sent that lump. There's plenty of money to spend elsewhere in the swap. They usually out down around 275whp junkyard fresh.

I don't think this engine was gonna last very long based on what I see. I can tell you a cam lobe was eaten by a bad lifter, cam bearings were shot, and the heads had some exhaust bolts snapped off. So thinking the eaten cam metals might have damaged the lower end bearings, I decided a full teardown was in order. The lower end was amazingly in like new condition.

So thats where Im at. Full bore, or just slap in some new stuff and send it or does anyone think original pistons with 5 thou PTW clearance is ok? Send it?

[Supercharged111]

Take this for what it's worth: back in 2015 I found I'd wadded up a rod bearing. My motor is a 93, I believe it was 95 when they changed the rotating assembly but don't quote me. I nailed a late LT1 crank on Craigslist and had it polished. I found a set of stock takeout pistons and rods on eBay. I installed new rings and bearings, gave the bores a 3 stone hone job 320 grit with moly rings. Didn't measure a damn thing and that's the motor you saw my car run at Hallett. On a motor that needs to be restricted, perfection isn't really necessary IMO. Mine made 292whp unrestricted in 2016. I'm 1 plate size larger than I was then. Is it the book answer? No. But to an extent, good enough is good enough in our class. YMMV.

[64GunPilot]

Im not looking to build power obviously, just reliability. Im not usually a lucky person, so putting it together without taking measurements, my luck something would be x10 beyond a tolerance and the engine would self destruct on the dyno. Problem is I never done this before, and I don't know typical limits of what is normal.

I just ordered a kit with new pistons. Will throw it together and see how it turns out.

[64GunPilot]

Jealous not being able to come and attend Hallett this year.

Being deployed I have too much time to think about racecar stuff. Ive been building a 5.3 and getting ready to do the swap. I came across a good deal on an LT1 complete turn key with accessories and T56 trans and bought it. The trans needs rebuild, but was thinking about what if I bolted up the LT1 to the T5 currently in the car. Would the T5 survive? Most seem to think it would not survive behind the 5.3. I would assume the same behind an LT1. Just asking what ya'll think. Some other forums have folks who thrash on the LT1/T5 and say it seems to survive but thats probably on street tires and street conditions. The LT1 would be so much more simple in terms of engine mount, trans bolt up, driveshaft mod ect. (Ive read plenty about the optispark issues and torqhead is an expensive fix).

Im still planning to do the 5.3 but just window shopping other ideas.

[Fbody383]

Survive is relative - yes it will work until it doesn't. Will you need a different bellhousing? I think you'll need a customer transmission mount because I believe the T5 is canted over 20ish degrees.

PS - our experience is that optis are not as bad as they're made out to be... Does Lingenfelter still have these? https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/BAI-LTCC.html I didn't call to see.

[64GunPilot]

Survive is relative - yes it will work until it doesn't. Will you need a different bellhousing? I think you'll need a customer transmission mount because I believe the T5 is canted over 20ish degrees.

PS - our experience is that optis are not as bad as they're made out to be... Does Lingenfelter still have these? https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/BAI-LTCC.html I didn't call to see.


Isn’t the LT1 the same bellhousing bolt pattern and depths as every other SBC? I’ve been running the old 305TPI with T5. From what I read I thought the LT1 bolts right up bellhousing flywheel clutch and all. I may have misunderstood something here. I guess I need to do some more digging. I got Time. I’ll do some more research.

[Supercharged111]

I'm under the impression that the LT1 should bolt in and go unless they're balanced differently in which case you'd be in it for a flywheel. My Opti was installed in 2014 (knock on wood), but it was an AC Delco that they quit making.

[BryanL]

Paging Gary. He ran the T5 behind his LT and should know what's needed along with if it will last.

It will definitely work-but maybe like the Ford's that used to always bring a spare T5 (especially at Hallett).

I'm racing an LT now. I remember a conversation with Mitch about them sorting out the opti issues but don't remember what they did-Glenn probably knows. Do you have the complete pullout with wiring harness?

Nice find OIF - https://www.bailey-eng.com/product/ltcc-lt1-coil-per-cylinder-converter/

[Mojave]

Jealous not being able to come and attend Hallett this year.

Being deployed I have too much time to think about racecar stuff. Ive been building a 5.3 and getting ready to do the swap. I came across a good deal on an LT1 complete turn key with accessories and T56 trans and bought it. The trans needs rebuild, but was thinking about what if I bolted up the LT1 to the T5 currently in the car. Would the T5 survive? Most seem to think it would not survive behind the 5.3. I would assume the same behind an LT1. Just asking what ya'll think. Some other forums have folks who thrash on the LT1/T5 and say it seems to survive but thats probably on street tires and street conditions. The LT1 would be so much more simple in terms of engine mount, trans bolt up, driveshaft mod ect. (Ive read plenty about the optispark issues and torqhead is an expensive fix).

Im still planning to do the 5.3 but just window shopping other ideas.

Why would you ever want to run an LT at all? If you are dropping the money on a Torquehead LS computer swap.... why not just go straight LS?

[64GunPilot]

Why would you ever want to run an LT at all? If you are dropping the money on a Torquehead LS computer swap.... why not just go straight LS?

I’m not gonna do torque head. Too spensive. I already have a spare T5 and I think standard opti with a spare or two should do just fine.

Again I bought this LT1 with a broke T56 (6th gear is not working) for $700. LT1 I think will bolt in without mods, notching the k-member for the oil pan, dealing with trans and engine mounts. And oh by the way I think my SBC canton pan will work with it too.

I have missed a whole year of racing because I spent the last few months after Hallett 2021 with my wife and kids before the deployment instead of in the garage sorting out the car. And when I get back, still family 1st kinda deal. I just want the quickest easiest solution that is the most bang for the buck that gets me back in the track the fastest. I have everything except the wiring harness and PCM for the LS I even have a brand new T56. But it needs a bit of sorting to deal with.

[Supercharged111]

Why would you ever want to run an LT at all? If you are dropping the money on a Torquehead LS computer swap.... why not just go straight LS?

A much cheaper alternative is being explored that eliminates the optical sensor as a failure point, no need to write off the LT because of that alone.

[Mojave]

A much cheaper alternative is being explored that eliminates the optical sensor as a failure point, no need to write off the LT because of that alone.

Even if you eliminate the optical sensor, the cap and rotor still sucks. I had a rotor explode at the track once, another time the rotor fell off, both requiring the water pump and crank pulley to come off to get to the opti to deal with it.

[64GunPilot]

Even if you eliminate the optical sensor, the cap and rotor still sucks. I had a rotor explode at the track once, another time the rotor fell off, both requiring the water pump and crank pulley to come off to get to the opti to deal with it.

All good points. A fresh 5.3 LS swap is a $5000+ price tag half being the T56. Fresh LT1 is maybe $1500 and I have spare T5 and it all bolts up to existing mounts.

Im just window shopping ideas. I may go ahead and go with the LS Im building. Still needs a list of items to buy and sort out. I haven’t decided. Thanks for the advice and opinions.

[Supercharged111]

Even if you eliminate the optical sensor, the cap and rotor still sucks. I had a rotor explode at the track once, another time the rotor fell off, both requiring the water pump and crank pulley to come off to get to the opti to deal with it.

I don't think that's a good example to write an engine off. I've never seen that happen myself or to anyone. The LS swap has a lot of hidden costs that really add up. Call it $600+ to convert an LT trans if you do it yourself, need clutch and master/slave. If starting with a truck motor need an intake, oil pan, all accessories, computer, wiring, and you'll make the same 260/310. All that to say I'm slowly gathering the stuff to do it myself.

[Mojave]

I don't think that's a good example to write an engine off. I've never seen that happen myself or to anyone. The LS swap has a lot of hidden costs that really add up. Call it $600+ to convert an LT trans if you do it yourself, need clutch and master/slave. If starting with a truck motor need an intake, oil pan, all accessories, computer, wiring, and you'll make the same 260/310. All that to say I'm slowly gathering the stuff to do it myself.

Well it happened to my LT4 C4 twice at TWS. I then went to the LTCC setup to ditch the cap/rotor part of the opti (which required pulling the water pump/opti AGAIN), then the optical half failed and I got to pull the water pump/opti AGAIN. If you can keep an LT running, you're a better man than I (but that isn't saying much haha), but I'm 100% done with them. I swore I'd never buy another LT, then I bought another LT and I pretty much instantly regretted it.

I think an LS swap is probably $7-8k to do it right, but I can't put a price on less LT frustration at the track.

[Alien]

Isn’t the LT1 the same bellhousing bolt pattern and depths as every other SBC? I’ve been running the old 305TPI with T5. From what I read I thought the LT1 bolts right up bellhousing flywheel clutch and all. I may have misunderstood something here. I guess I need to do some more digging. I got Time. I’ll do some more research.

Your 305 is a 1pc rear main, correct? I can't remember if all TPI's were the later style.
Yes, the T5 bellhousing bolts right up to the LT1, and the T56 bellhousing will bolt up to the 305.
Canton pan fits both 305 and LT1

I've run my (world class) T5 for a few years behind the 305. I did go through it and did some of the standard upgrades (bearing retainer I think?) quite a few years ago when I dropped in the LT1. A lot will depend how you drive it to make it survive. No sidestepping the clutch on the standing starts, don't just slam your shifts.

I'm using the T5 clutch and hydraulics. I took the flywheel to get balance matched to the LT1 flywheel, just to be sure. Don't remember what they did, but that particular flywheel was on a few previous engines.

5.3L is nice and if something major happens I'll go that route. As mentioned, the longblock is the cheap and easy part. It's all the other stuff that adds up. Exhaust and intake manifolds if you don't have them, custom y-pipe, engine crossmember notched (sometimes), trans crossmember (Holley is great, but interferes with my Alston subframes), accessories, oil pan and Improved trap door for oil control, hoses, wiring...

[64GunPilot]

Your 305 is a 1pc rear main, correct? I can't remember if all TPI's were the later style.
Yes, the T5 bellhousing bolts right up to the LT1, and the T56 bellhousing will bolt up to the 305.
Canton pan fits both 305 and LT1

I've run my (world class) T5 for a few years behind the 305. I did go through it and did some of the standard upgrades (bearing retainer I think?) quite a few years ago when I dropped in the LT1. A lot will depend how you drive it to make it survive. No sidestepping the clutch on the standing starts, don't just slam your shifts.

I'm using the T5 clutch and hydraulics. I took the flywheel to get balance matched to the LT1 flywheel, just to be sure. Don't remember what they did, but that particular flywheel was on a few previous engines.

5.3L is nice and if something major happens I'll go that route. As mentioned, the longblock is the cheap and easy part. It's all the other stuff that adds up. Exhaust and intake manifolds if you don't have them, custom y-pipe, engine crossmember notched (sometimes), trans crossmember (Holley is great, but interferes with my Alston subframes), accessories, oil pan and Improved trap door for oil control, hoses, wiring...

Gary, thank you for the confirmation. Everything I’ve read says it’ll work. Nice to have a fellow racer onboard with the idea. I’m $4000 into the 5.3 build. I probably should just finish it out. Just need another $1500 worth of crap, and then I might be ready for the Dyno. Time, effort, and money. Striving for reliability. Can’t make up my mind.

[BryanL]

What about running the T56 from the LT? You don't need 6th gear but I assume if 6th is broke there are other issues. People will still pay some strong money for a core I hear if you sold it to finish the LS.

LT was second at Hallett. My car sat for over 10 years and has three race weekends under it without an issue of the LT-I'm not going to blame the fire on the LT's plastic fuel lines.

For everything discussed I think the most unreliable part would be the T5. The T56 you can't hardly break at our power and tire.

Do you have or can you use your existing exhaust with the LT? Just looking at all the small stuff that goes into either and where you want to put your energy.

[Mojave]

What about running the T56 from the LT? You don't need 6th gear but I assume if 6th is broke there are other issues. People will still pay some strong money for a core I hear if you sold it to finish the LS.

LT was second at Hallett. My car sat for over 10 years and has three race weekends under it without an issue of the LT-I'm not going to blame the fire on the LT's plastic fuel lines.

For everything discussed I think the most unreliable part would be the T5. The T56 you can't hardly break at our power and tire.

Do you have or can you use your existing exhaust with the LT? Just looking at all the small stuff that goes into either and where you want to put your energy.

What do you mean don't need 6th gear? Per the 2022 rules:


6.27.3 All gears including reverse must be functional and able to be used to drive the car

[Gerno]

He’s just saying none of us 6th gear, it’s a waste to have but yes you I cannot remove the gear per the rules . Hell, I never even use 5th

[64GunPilot]

What about running the T56 from the LT? You don't need 6th gear but I assume if 6th is broke there are other issues. People will still pay some strong money for a core I hear if you sold it to finish the LS.

LT was second at Hallett. My car sat for over 10 years and has three race weekends under it without an issue of the LT-I'm not going to blame the fire on the LT's plastic fuel lines.

For everything discussed I think the most unreliable part would be the T5. The T56 you can't hardly break at our power and tire.

Do you have or can you use your existing exhaust with the LT? Just looking at all the small stuff that goes into either and where you want to put your energy.

Bryan,

I have been youtubing T56 rebuilds. Seems like it is within my capability. I need to learn this stuff, and a good excuse to buy some more tools like the depth gauges ect. Could always bring the T5 as a backup trans. The current 305TPI is running the aftermarket headers that the rules allow. I'll have to use the factory LT Headers, and your right, I might be able to bolt the current exhaust piping right up to the headers or at least minor adjustments made. Maybe another headache averted.

The good news is I get to make up my mind very shortly.

[Supercharged111]

Fuck a T5. I just dug back into my T56 for the 3rd time this year (very unusual, usually they're nuke proof), and I'll tell you it's about as easy as it gets to service this thing. If you can rebuild it and make it not leak it'll be a damned long time before you crack it open again. I sucked on a basic rebuild and it leaked and that drove me nuts so I opened up Pandora's box and here I am.

[Fbody383]

If you can rebuild it and make it not leak it'll be a damned long time before you crack it open again. Weird; I don't think we've ever had one leak, at least not at the case parting.

[Gerno]

Rebuilding a T56 is simple. Hardest part for me was the 5/6 cluster removal and taking the time to set the bearing preload but I have the puller now so that makes it easier. Thinking of, I need to put my spare t56 back together soon.

[Supercharged111]

Weird; I don't think we've ever had one leak, at least not at the case parting.

I only siliconed one of the 2 mating surfaces. Won't be making that mistake again.

[64GunPilot]

Got home two days ago. Nice to be back home. Bought two LT1/T56 combos. One was in the form a whole running/driving parts car. If anyone wants the body/frame/whatever after Im done stripping parts off of it (im taking: engine/trans/rear end) you are welcome. Not asking anything for it, take the whole thing away if you want it.

This is the final direction I'll be going. Hopefully it gets me back on the track the quickest most cost efficient way.

[Fbody383]

whoop whoop... LT1 for the win... or at least back on track.

[Supercharged111]

whoop whoop... LT1 for the win... or at least back on track.

Good enough for first loser the last 2 years.

[Mojave]

I wish someone would teach me the magic of keeping an LT running on track, I can't do it! I hope it runs great for you.

[64GunPilot]

Finally got time to square away the shop and organize. Put the my 1995 donor LT1 car on the lift and started tearing into it.............IRON HEADS!!!! :mad: My bad I didnt think to check that the LT1 in a Z28 Camaro had Aluminum heads.....DOH. WTF. Anyways. I dont think the rules will allow me to run it like that since it wasnt ever a factory setup in a camaro. Thoughts?

[Pranav]

I'd defer to Michael but I don't think anyone here will care enough to to stop you

The iron heads are a disadvantage across the board and if it gets you running faster to drop it in as is I'd just go for it

Try find another lt1 w aluminum heads later and get it setup the way you want to drop in later

[y5e06]

Finally got time to square away the shop and organize. Put the my 1995 donor LT1 car on the lift and started tearing into it.............IRON HEADS!!!! :mad: My bad I didnt think to check that the LT1 in a Z28 Camaro had Aluminum heads.....DOH. WTF. Anyways. I dont think the rules will allow me to run it like that since it wasnt ever a factory setup in a camaro. Thoughts?
I have a set of aluminum LT1 heads you can have. they need a refresh. I never used them just always had as a spare and never needed. they're located south of austin

[64GunPilot]

I have a set of aluminum LT1 heads you can have. they need a refresh. I never used them just always had as a spare and never needed. they're located south of austin

I will take you up on that offer for sure. PM'd!

[Supercharged111]

Bottom ends are the same, so aluminum heads will get your compression up where the F bodies are stock. You'll definitely want to change the cam too because it will come in low on HP and waaaayy hot on torque.

[64GunPilot]

Bottom ends are the same, so aluminum heads will get your compression up where the F bodies are stock. You'll definitely want to change the cam too because it will come in low on HP and waaaayy hot on torque.

Huge thank you to Morgan for saving the day. Got his heads, and Monday they'll go into the machine shop. I've had a bunch of various LT1 parts in my bins for over a decade. A little surface corrosion, but I have some LT1 cams that should be good to go. Hoping to have the car ready by the end of October.

[Supercharged111]

Huge thank you to Morgan for saving the day. Got his heads, and Monday they'll go into the machine shop. I've had a bunch of various LT1 parts in my bins for over a decade. A little surface corrosion, but I have some LT1 cams that should be good to go. Hoping to have the car ready by the end of October.

I've always wondered if a machine shop can polish a cam the way they do a crank.

[64GunPilot]

LT1 swap is coming along. Dont think I'll make Cresson. Shooting for ECR in December.

[64GunPilot]

There was a lot of information in this thread. I appreciate all the help from everyone. Declaring LT1 / T56 swap complete. Today I got the car dyno'd. It runs and sounds good. Gonna register with Chin for a trackday at MSR-H next weekend (Dec 17th) for my own test n tune, and a little practice there before next season opener.

I ended up taking 30 days of leave and have spent hundreds of hours working on this thing. 12-16hrs a day sometimes. It was WAY more work and way more odds 'n' ends that eat at the overall budget of the conversion than I ever thought about. I got it done realistically for about $2500. Some may balk at the LT route I went instead of LS, but I think the LT was cheaper overall and it kinda fell into my hands cheaply and easily.

Again thanks for the advice from everyone. Special thanks to Dustin for lots of back and forth LT1 questions, and Morgan for giving me some free aluminum LT1 heads. I hope if nothing else to add to the car count next year.

2032

[michaelmosty]

Wow, that looks super clean, nice work Dylan!!!
I hope the test day goes great next weekend and look forward to having you back on track next season!

[Sook]

Looks great! It'll be awesome to see it at Houston in January.

Josh

[64GunPilot]

Looks great! It'll be awesome to see it at Houston in January.

Josh


Wow, that looks super clean, nice work Dylan!!!
I hope the test day goes great next weekend and look forward to having you back on track next season!

Thanks. We'll see if it holds up.

[BryanL]

Wow Dylan. Looks like we could eat dinner on it. Hope the dyno went well and good luck on track shakedown.