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A couple general track questions regarding track events, facilities, hookups, and etiquette.
Is it ok to spend the night in your racecar trailer at the tracks?
If so is it ok to run an external generator at night for A/C, ect?
Do paddocks have any electricity or are generators required for everything?
Do they charge extra for staying overnight?
Do you guys bring all your fuel in cans to the track?
Do facilities usually have a place to shower? Wife wants to know....
- Dylan
Yes, most of us do this.Quote:
Originally Posted by 64GunPilot
Your neighbor may hate you for it, but I left mine running at Hallett overnight. I generally try not to, but if I lived in TX I imagine I'd do it more often.Quote:
Originally Posted by 64GunPilot
Some do, but you pay extra for that luxury.Quote:
Originally Posted by 64GunPilot
None that I'm aware of.Quote:
Originally Posted by 64GunPilot
I do, once I'm there I don't want to have to leave. I have seven 5 gallon cans.Quote:
Originally Posted by 64GunPilot
Most of the tracks I've been to have some way to shower. I bring my own now.Quote:
Originally Posted by 64GunPilot
It'd be better if a Texican chimed in here in case the majority of the tracks down there are vastly different than here, but I doubt that that's the case.
I see. Thanks. So you have like a little tent popup shower type deal that you shower in? Cool.
I've been pitching around the idea of mildly converting my enclosed into a racecar toyhauler type. Just a place to sleep with A/C and heat, small fridge, sink, two spot burner, and a bathroom / shower combo. I think I can make this work in my 20ft enclosed. But it would be tight for the tires, tools, equipment and car to all fit.
A few of us went this route last year. This is me and Bryan at Hallett last year.
Attachment 1840
I don't think there's any going back now. If you're gonna add AC to the trailer, I recommend insulating first. Not all that hard to do.
Nice. Have considered some older v10 class C motorhomes too. But doing a little work to put in a shower / rv toilet and some electrical work for water heater, A/C, and fridge in my trailer would be cheaper. And yes, insulation will go a long way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged111
How long is your trailer? Living quarters would be too tight in my 24 footer, I have a bench and shelf up front for storage, tire rack along the wall. You'd be amazed at how much crap ends up living in the trailer.
If you can pack all that in a 20' your a way more organized than me. But I also have a camper in the bed of my truck so no extra room there. I want a 28' then I will have room for everything.Quote:
Originally Posted by 64GunPilot
With a 20' box, having enough space for sleeping is a no brainer since the car isn't in there when you are. Adding a sink, shower and toilet? That's like a tiny house challenge. I mean, an F body is just over 16' so realistically 18' of that trailer is gone when the car is in there. I would suggest you're better off relying on the track for shower and bathroom and spend your efforts on insulation, a/c, quiet generator, and outdoor capable fridge (normal domestic fridges are not designed to cope with 100F ambients).
Don't ask Al, he brings a moving house with him.Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Fernandez
24' would be minimum for what you are describing.
I have a 24' with a bench and there is barely enough room for a set of tires on the floor with the car in there.
So what is the etiquette for running generators at night after campfire gatherings ? My current generator runs about 75db. Pretty loud. Or do most paddocks in Texas have electricity for us? If its a problem then maybe I need to shop for a quiet generator.
Haha. I so wish my trailer was 24ft. I have a 40 footer triple axle bumper pull, but I need money so Im gonna sell it and my Excursion and downgrade to my older Yukon halfton and keep my 20ft enclosed and 20ft flatbed.Quote:
Don't ask Al, he brings a moving house with him.
24' would be minimum for what you are describing.
If it's not an inverter generator then it's probably going to be obnoxious. Mine is 58 dB.
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...rt-series.html
I run a pair of honda 2000i generators connected together and it runs my 15k BTU A/C and about anything else I need with ease and quietly. Usually put them right under the gooseneck and they don't bother us all weekend. Highly reccomend that setup -- I ended up with twin 2000's because I had one that I used before I stepped up to the big trailer and needed to run an A/C.Quote:
Originally Posted by 64GunPilot
Ok. I see i'll eventually need to buy a new generator. I have a lot of things I need. Unfortunately I can't buy it all at once. I gotta start off small and work my way up over the next couple years.
There are several less than ideal, but still reasonable means to support this hobby as I grow in it. For example, I can take out my rear Yukon seats and put in a full mattress and sleep in that with the engine and A/C running, and use facility showers / restrooms, and only fire up the generator when I absolutely need it. I might look like a hobo at the track, but I've had some extremely high expenses the past two years and I am still recovering from that. Im lucky to be able to even begin to jump into HPDE.
I have enough tires and brakes I think to last me through 3-4 events of HPDE (this is all I can attend due to my return from Korea / deployment timeline). And just hoping the car holds together. Supposedly its pretty fresh, but we'll see and I am looking forward to finding out in April at my first appearance at Eagles Canyon.
Daniel how long are you getting on one tank of gas running two of those? I have a buddy that just asked me about this. I have a 3000.Quote:
Originally Posted by drecords
It's racing so there is always something you want. I have had this car for a year next month and I am still working on stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by 64GunPilot
Many of the tracks we run do not have electric but all have showers, some better than others. Most of the time you can find somewhere to park away from others so your generator wont make them crazy. Last year at Hallett I slept in a tent with ac and a generator. I had a few empty trailers around me and a ton of mosquitoes.
Have extra consumables, bring what tools you can and come out and have fun. That's what this is about.
Running our equipment at work with eco mode off and pushing near the capacity of the generator, I think I got 4 hours and change out of a full tank. Our 3k Hondas go much longer than that with the same load.Quote:
Originally Posted by centerville
About 4hrs, however come check out my extended range tank I'm trying out this weekend. It's a 6gal boat fuel tank from Wal-Mart for $49 with some 1/4" fittings and 3/8 fuel line to hopefully have them run all weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by centerville
How are they hooked up to keep the tanks full, but not overfull?Quote:
Originally Posted by drecords
The little Honda's have fuel pumps in them because the tank is below the carb level and they can't gravity feed. Pump will pull the fuel from the aux tank as it needs it. I have replacement caps with Barb fittings om themQuote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged111
Quote:
Originally Posted by drecords
Quote:
Originally Posted by drecords
I too run a pair of Honda 2000s and have rigged them up to both feed from a 5 gallon can (I just use one of the 7 cans I bring with 93 octane for the car). I can tell you it works AWESOME and running continuous they last roughly 24 hours.
There's plenty of people that sleep in tents, so sleeping in a Yukon cant be considered more hobo-ish!
Best shower on the circuit is outdoors at Hallett. Loud gens are annoying but then again almost any gen is loud enough to keep me awake. Depending on the track I bring all my fuel especially for Hallett.
Don't see how you could put all that into a 20' trailer and have room for the car either. I prefer staying in the track in the trailer. Hallett has some electric plugs you can find that you pay for but not sure how many are around that aren't a part of a raceport.
I'm not a fan of using a half ton vehicle with an enclosed trailer though I have only used a 3/4 truck/suburban. I know tow capacity's are claimed pretty high on some new half tons but have to wonder how they really handle a trailer under braking, in wind, etc. Plenty of people do it but I question the safety and durability of it. But I understand the compromise of not wanting a 3/4 ton truck to drive everyday and not want to pull a 40' bumper pull triple axle.
I'll throw out considering selling both trailers and the yukon then using the Excursion to pull a 24 or 28 depending how much stuff you want to bring or if you want some living quarters. Take the Yukon for a 100 mile test in the wind/heat towing the trailer loaded with all the junk we bring to see how it does before making a big change. See if you can monitor trans temps in overdrive if you have the 4l60 which I assume you do.
Lots of variable and what you want will change so doing a test run before a huge change is my suggestion. I wouldn't worry about being hobo-ish no matter what you do either.
Does one need to have a co2 monitor if running the truck all night and sleeping in it? I'm told motorcycle guys rent diesel vans and leave them running all weekend.
Bryan, thanks for the advice. Agreed on all. 1/2 tons are not the best for what we pull.Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanL
The Trailer:
I agree a 20ft enclosed isnt much room for it all. While I still think I "could" cram everything in there with some high class ingenuity, I would never be happy with it. So I will hold off on spending any money on it now and wait until I have the trailer that fits me the best. This 20ft is my starter trailer for now.
The Yukon (1999 Denali)
I agree towing with a half ton SUV is not ideal. The 4l60e is not the best transmission for towing, and I have no idea what rearend gears are in the Yukon. Right now it doesnt even have an engine in it. I bought it for $500 a couple months ago. My dad had his engine in his Tahoe rebuilt right before it was totaled so he gave it to me and I decided to use it as a donor vehicle to bring this Yukon back to life (same year models). I was told the trans was good....praying that is the truth.....If not, then the 2wd 4l60e out of the Tahoe will be used as replacement and the Yukon will no longer be a 4WD. Either way, a trans temp sender and gauge will be added to monitor the temps. I've towed a lot of various stuff with vehicles ranging from small pickups to 1 tons gas and diesel. I agree a 1/2 ton Yukon will suck. But I believe that it "can" do the job.....barely. I just need it to live through the 2019 calendar year. It too is a temporary starter vehicle to get me by for now. And yes, before I sell the Excursion, I will do a fair amount of testing to make sure it is a sound tow vehicle.
The Financial Status:
The downsizing from a 40 footer and a Diesel Excursion to a 20 footer 1/2 ton Yukon is not a trade most would approve of. But I need to liquidate the Excursion and 40 footer to raise some cash for other things. My wife's flight school is close to $90,000 and as much as I can I am trying to pay it out of pocket as she progresses. So as long as I can safely downgrade, and still support my hobbies then I am ok with the sacrifice. When I get back from deployment in July 2020, my financial situation will be 200% better. July 2020 rolls around, she'll be flying airlines commercially with her ATP, we will have a dual income, all debts far and wide will be paid in full with a good nest egg of savings, and I'll be just getting back from hopefully my last deployment. We can really spread our wings then. In my mind, I imagine it to be glorious!! I plan on a new-ish 3/4 ton diesel, 28ft trailer, a nice generator, ect ect, the list goes on. But thats still a ways away, and Im not counting the chickens before they hatch.
For now, Im gonna try and live and operate as frugal as I safely can while still participating in our hobbies. KEY WORD "SAFELY". Normally I'd go out and buy two Honda generators, new trailer, get some 17" CTW wheels and tires, and show up ready to rock. But this is just one phase of my life that I have some other financial obligations to handle.
I will mature in this hobby slowly but surely.
The only weaknesses of that 1500 Yukon are a short wheelbase (non-fixable), weak dick transmission (totally swappable), weak ass springs (fixable), and brakes compared to a 2500. With a 20 foot trailer and smart mods, safety shouldn't be much of an ordeal, more like ease of handling. I've hauled my 24 footer for years with my modded 1500, though it has corrected as many of my previously ID'd weaknesses as possible. I now haul it primarily with a crew cab dually and holy crap, even with a 5000# slide in camper and massive 4 foot hitch extension, is the difference amazing. No matter how much I prefer to pull with that dually, my modded 1500 hits so hard that it is the winter tow vehicle of choice. That will likely change once I bolt a Whipple back onto the 3500, but in the meantime I'm trying to keep miles and rust off of the dually for the long term.
The only mod i have planned are airbags. If I go easy on it, the trans should hold up. 60mph in 3rd should do it. Maybe ill get lucky and find a 4L80e behind its blown engine. If not I have a spare 2wd 4L60 with driveshaft on standby.
Definitely invest in weight distributing and anti sway hitch!
When my trailer started getting nose heavy, even with the bags aired up the trailer would bully the truck around a little until I got one.
Makes emergency lane changes a lot better too.
I wouldn't bother with hindering speed. If you're gonna hold it in 3rd and the converter is locked that's as good as it gets. Just haul ass if you want to ASSuming you have an auxiliary cooler, as long as that converter is locked and coolant holds its own the trans will too. I have a trans temp gauge in my 1500 and learned enough about how the trans operates to not bother with a gauge in the 3500. Plus what Pranav said, but I think you already have a WD hitch?Quote:
Originally Posted by 64GunPilot
I witnessed Pranav do an emergency lane change with his trailer at highway speed that involved a lane change that would have made any autocrosser in a CRX proud. Except he was in his truck with trailer, #54, etc...
It was impressive. I was sold on the weight distributing/anti-sway hitch after that!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pranav
Yea for sure. I have two different types of WD hitches.....one is an Anderson WD Hitch which is unconventional (pain in the ass to setup and doesnt work as well), and a typical trunnion bar WD hitch that Mike Plum let me have inclusive when I bought his car with the trailer and all. I used his WD hitch from California and the trailer pulled amazing. I'll be using it anytime I hook up. It doesnt have sway control, but I never once felt I needed it. Between the weight and strength of the Excursion, the WD hitch, and the nice smooth running torsion axles on the trailer, it was the best pulling experience I have ever had. But Im loosing about 2000lbs downgrading from the Excursion to the Yukon. So, sway control may be something I will need to invest in. We'll see. If I have to put a bunch of band-aids on this concept (sway control, air bags, transmission ect) then I will just keep the Excursion and find another way to raise some cash.Quote:
Originally Posted by drecords
The Yukon is just a temporary tow vehicle to get me through the 2019 season (really only 3 or 4 events, plus an ATV camping trip to Oliver Springs TN with my kiddos probably with my flatbed). So it only needs to survive 5 towing trips.
I agree a locked TC is the way to tow and keeps the trans temps down, however, the 4L60 has a weak sun gear that tends to strip the splines, or snap completely regardless of heat. I assume most break because folks are spraying nitrous or have beefed up their engine in some way that the sun gear couldnt hold up. Maybe behind a stock 255hp/330lbft vortec 350 it wouldnt hurt it regardless of the load. IDK. My life is always an adventure, and I tend to ride the envelope of limitations lol.Quote:
I wouldn't bother with hindering speed. If you're gonna hold it in 3rd and the converter is locked that's as good as it gets. Just haul ass if you want to ASSuming you have an auxiliary cooler, as long as that converter is locked and coolant holds its own the trans will too. I have a trans temp gauge in my 1500 and learned enough about how the trans operates to not bother with a gauge in the 3500. Plus what Pranav said, but I think you already have a WD hitch?
When I first started doing race weekends with David and #39 we didn't use the the WD hitchQuote:
Originally Posted by drecords
that he had in the shop. After we figured out the airbags on the tow vehicle where dead he
switched to using the WD hitch. I was sold. Last year I bought a trailer to bring the 77 vette
to Ohio and didn't even think twice about a what hitch to use. My hitch has the option for
sway control but I've found - at least with just the vette on the trailer - that the preload on
the WD hitch does a pretty good job of keeping things straight behind my Avalanche. And I
learned from loading #39 how to make sure the car is well placed on the trailer. I'm sure
it helps that I wasn't hauling all the extra tires and tools and spares that we usually take with
the race car. And it sure makes the truck ride better on some of the rough roads I drove.
It was 255/330 for about a week, but admittedly the 4L60 never did pull enclosed. I swapped to the 4L80 before that came about.Quote:
Originally Posted by 64GunPilot
My "1500" pulled a 24' enclosed with WD better than open deck without so to me there's no going back either. I've never bothered with anti sway either, not even in cross winds do I feel I need it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 39PitCrew