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Thread: How to regrease SN95 hubs.

  1. #21
    Junior Member Rookie MHISSTC's Avatar
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    Since I'm the guinea pig of our team, I disassembled and cleaned my first hub and I think it might be FUBAR'd for a couple of reasons.

    The hubs I am trying this on are used OEM Ford units of unknown mileage that came on the set of used '94-'95 GT spindles we purchased.

    First potential issue: The back cover was super easy to remove with the special CMC Parts tool. As I was wiping a little bit of the grease out before popping the bearing and seal out, I noticed a very small piece of fibrous stuff. I think it is a small piece of the inner lip of one of the plastic races that was missing and had gotten all smashed up with the bearings. There is a small piece of this thin inner lip missing on each of the races and each one is also cracked and detached from the rest of the race for about 1/3 of the circumference around each race. I'm not sure this thin lip is doing anything, but I'm not sure I want to go ahead and reuse it either. I'm wondering if I should trim the rest of the somewhat detached portion off and go ahead and use it, or if should I give up now and get a set of new hubs to re-grease?

    Second potential issue: The seal required a little more effort than it should have to remove, probably because it is a used hub, and I also made the mistake of prying up from underneath the seal instead of from underneath the bearing race. I ended up putting a bit of a wave in the seal. I am not confident I can straighten it out. Again, should I give up now and get a set of new hubs, or should I expend the effort to try to flatten the seal and reuse it?

    I'm going to make my teammate Dave do the second one with whatever small amount of guidance I can give him after doing the first one. I guess if he has any issues with the second hub, we'll be buying a new pair anyway.

    The next thing we'll practice is drilling the hubs out for the ARP studs.

  2. #22
    Senior Member Grass-Passer Wade's Avatar
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    The tiny piece on the innner portion of the plastic bearing retainer is only there told hold the entire assembly together in the box during shipping and installation. Basically an assembly line type of product where the can cram it all together and get it to stick. You can carefully pull that tiny peice out and discard it. The rear seal is just a dust seal. You should be able to easily pound it back flat and reuse it. Don't give up. It took me a couple of hours to do the first one, but now I can disassemble, clean and repack in about 20 minutes. The drilling is also no big deal as you are only enlarging the hole from .595 to .609 so just go slow and it will be fine. Good Luck!
    '86 Mustang Coupe - CMC2 34

  3. #23
    Junior Member Rookie MHISSTC's Avatar
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    The bearing retainer was trimmed, the dust seal was flattened and all was assembled.

    I managed to break the drill bit when drilling the second hub as I got hung up on the ABS ring. We got another bit, went slower with less pressure, and it worked much better.

    The proof will come this weekend when we get it on the track.

  4. #24
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    Sorry to dredge up an old post but it's a good one. Marshall any chance you still have the pics you took for this. Thanks

  5. #25
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby marshall_mosty's Avatar
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    Probably not, but I might be able to grab a hub this weekend and post fresh pics.
    Marshall Mosty
    AI/SI Texas Regional Director
    2011 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
    AI #67 "Mosty Brothers' Racing" (RIP)
    ST6 #21 Toyota Corolla (being revived)...

  6. #26
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby RichardP's Avatar
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    As a heads up, the center bore on S197 hubs is larger but the design is the same. I was able to machine the other end of my tool to pull apart those hubs for greasing...

    Richard P.

  7. #27
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby marshall_mosty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RichardP View Post
    As a heads up, the center bore on S197 hubs is larger but the design is the same. I was able to machine the other end of my tool to pull apart those hubs for greasing...

    Richard P.
    I've always just used a flat blade screwdriver between the two inner race halves to tap the inner race out and then use a socket on the outer race.
    Marshall Mosty
    AI/SI Texas Regional Director
    2011 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
    AI #67 "Mosty Brothers' Racing" (RIP)
    ST6 #21 Toyota Corolla (being revived)...

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by RichardP View Post
    As a heads up, the center bore on S197 hubs is larger but the design is the same. I was able to machine the other end of my tool to pull apart those hubs for greasing...

    Richard P.
    I paid attention when you said that last weekend. But as I have never done this pics are worth 1000 words. I might steal your design and make my own once I see what I am supposed to be doing.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by marshall_mosty View Post
    Probably not, but I might be able to grab a hub this weekend and post fresh pics.
    If you want me to pick one up and you can show me and I will take pics and save for future reference. It doesn't have to be this weekend. Google drive has it's perks.

  10. #30
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby marshall_mosty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by centerville View Post
    If you want me to pick one up and you can show me and I will take pics and save for future reference. It doesn't have to be this weekend. Google drive has it's perks.
    I have a few "old" hubs that I can pull apart for the pics. I need to run by the shop Friday anyway and will pick it up. Maybe I can email you the pics to host on Google Drive.
    Marshall Mosty
    AI/SI Texas Regional Director
    2011 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
    AI #67 "Mosty Brothers' Racing" (RIP)
    ST6 #21 Toyota Corolla (being revived)...

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