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Thread: How to regrease SN95 hubs.

  1. #11
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby marshall_mosty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RichardP View Post
    No, you can't buy any parts for the hubs since they are "non-serviceable." Be very careful taking them apart.

    The reason I got into regreasing the hubs in the first place is because I had a pair of hubs with such thin and crappy grease that it melted and flung out all over the place. It was everywhere including the brake discs, calipers, inside the wheels, etc. My brakes faded away at TWS and I had to come in to see what was wrong. Proper grease stays inside the hub. A grease seal is to keep contaminants away from the grease, not to hold the stuff in...


    Richard P.
    I 100% agree with Richard. If you start with new hubs, you will have ZERO issues getting the seal out. Use a seal puller and be gentle if you are regreasing used hubs. If they were new on your race car and just have a season on them, they still should come out pretty easily.
    Marshall Mosty
    AI/SI Texas Regional Director
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    AI #67 "Mosty Brothers' Racing" (RIP)
    ST6 #21 Toyota Corolla (being revived)...

  2. #12
    Junior Member Rookie MHISSTC's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting this info. I was planning on doing exactly this in the next few months before getting the car on-track next season.

  3. #13
    Junior Member Rookie MHISSTC's Avatar
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    Questions about the spindle nut...

    All instructions I have seen say to replace the nut after each removal. Are you reusing the nut or replacing it with a new one each time you take it off?

    There appears to be two different style replacement nuts available...the more expensive caged OEM style as shown in your picture that is $20 each at the Ford dealership, and the non-caged type for the low price of $5 each at Autozone. Any recommendation?

    It looks like I'll be hitting the parts store on Monday to pick up a 36mm socket. I'll have to check my torque wrench to see if it goes up to 250ft.lbs. to get that nut back on tight.

    Scott

  4. #14
    Senior Member Grass-Passer Wade's Avatar
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    I re-use the factory nut.
    '86 Mustang Coupe - CMC2 34

  5. #15
    Senior Member Grass-Passer jdlingle's Avatar
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    Me too. Only changed the hubs once but no issues so far.
    2011- Texas Region CMC2 Rookie of the Year.
    2012- Broke with no car.
    2013- Author- Hard Luck Lloyd: The Complete Story of Slow-Talking, Fast-Driving Texan Lloyd Ruby

  6. #16
    Slight thread hijack. Need to replace the front hubs on BFP and was looking to use the ARP studs...other than OEM or Timken if you have suggestions on hubs let me know. I need to contact Timken and make sure the ARP studs will work.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Grass-Passer edrock96GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFirePony View Post
    Slight thread hijack. Need to replace the front hubs on BFP and was looking to use the ARP studs...other than OEM or Timken if you have suggestions on hubs let me know. I need to contact Timken and make sure the ARP studs will work.
    See the Cresson media thread for hub & stud info (where else would it be...duh). I got the O'Reilly hubs and rear studs from summit and drilled the holes with a 39/64th bit. Turned out great.
    Eddie Rock

    #21 AI '96 GT

  8. #18
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby marshall_mosty's Avatar
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    Scott,
    I see no problem reusing the ford spindle nut. I've never had it back off. Use a breaker bar and body weight to achieve 250 ft-lbs of torque.

    Brian,
    On the hub, I'm not sure what the OEM knurl size is for the S197 platform, but the ARP 7703 studs have a 0.625" knurl. The 39/64 is 0.609, with provides a perfect press fit. I'd hammer out an existing stud and measure the knurl on the OEM studs. If it's equal or less than 0.625", go with the 7703's from ARP. Stay away from Moroso, too many disaster stories.
    Marshall Mosty
    AI/SI Texas Regional Director
    2011 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
    AI #67 "Mosty Brothers' Racing" (RIP)
    ST6 #21 Toyota Corolla (being revived)...

  9. #19
    Thanks Marshall. The Ford Racing hubs are basically the OEM with ARP studs so it might just be cost effective to go that route...S197 price points are still damn high

  10. #20
    Junior Member Rookie MHISSTC's Avatar
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    Good Info.

    Thanks all.

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