Red Shift Racing #82 Set Up Notes

[Storm Trooper]

As a "newbie rookie" this is invaluable, I so look forward to meeting you all and hopefully I can keep up with ya'll some day..lol

Sean Richardson
Storm Trooper (my 2 boys idea)

[Fbody383]

Great notes guys... appreciate it.

I know one of my biggest limiters is seat time; I had never driven a 4th gen PERIOD before the MSRH Friday test day in 2009.

[Al Fernandez]

Excellent stuff guys!! Thats a pretty stiff spring setup considering the bumpiness of Texas tracks. You guys in other platforms remember you cant compare spring rate from one platform to another. You can, however, compare wheel rate. You need to know the motion ratio of the suspension to calculate the wheel rate. The square of the motion ratio times the spring rate gives you wheel rate. For a 4th gen, the front is 0.581 and the rear is 1.040. In other words, Dan's 1100 front springs result in a front wheel rate of 371. By the way a stock 4th gen had a wheel rate of around 100

I think everyone needs to be able to do their own alignments. Toe is simple: two plates and two tape measures and you're set. No reason to spend $300 on a Smart camber gauge, the digital black box is the same as in any digital level that you can get for $130. If you can measure camber you can measure caster!! Caster =(180/pi)*(C1-C2)/(T2-T1) where C1 and C2 are camber measurements at turn positions T1 and T2 respectively. So, turn the tire 10 degrees left from center, thats T1 (10) and measure C1. Turn the tire to be 10 degrees right of center (T2 is -10) and measure C2. Using a little algebra you can draw a couple of points on the ground to tell you what 10 degrees to either side of center is. A couple of pieces of sheet metal with some oil will make bitchin turn plates on the cheap. If you have a welder, make yourself some "stools" to allow you to have the car on its wheels but 18" or so off the ground so you can adjust alignment without having to jack up the car.

[David Love AI27]

I think everyone needs to be able to do their own alignments.

Caster =(180/pi)*(C1-C2)/(T2-T1) where C1 and C2 are camber measurements at turn positions T1 and T2 respectively. So, turn the tire 10 degrees left from center, thats T1 (10) and measure C1. Turn the tire to be 10 degrees right of center (T2 is -10) and measure C2. Using a little algebra you can draw a couple of points on the ground to tell you what 10 degrees to either side of center is.

All I heard was "do your own alignments and then Wa, wa, waaa, wa, wa, wa, waaaa, wa, wa, waaa...

[TJ Bain]

A couple of pieces of sheet metal with some oil will make bitchin turn plates on the cheap.

I prefer two halves of a Bud Light box with some axle grease in between. Works good for making sure the tire isn't sticking on scale pads too if you don't have drive on pads. Use the printed side for the grease side, it doesn't soak up the grease. Old drum brake axle grease soaks up less then M1 grease, FWIW.

Doesn't everyone have BL boxes and a tub of old axle grease you can't use anymore?

[Daniel Allford]

Most of our set up notes from May are still valid. But we have learned a few things this season.

Correction:At ECR we learned that higher rear pressures worked better, in my May post we recommended 33-36 psi hot rear pressures. As we pushed the car harder, we found this pressure is too low and the rear tires "roll over" and "grind". We are now running 38 to 40 psi in the Rear, still running 40-42 psi hot in the front. Just as an experiment we took pressures up to 44 hot and the car felt "skatey". There is an upper limit. At ECR we managed to get some 3rd gear inside tire spin at these high pressures on the next to last corner. I thought we had cooked a clutch until I realized them my limited slip diff wasnt very limited.

Rear Brakes: At Hallet we found that cheap Autozone pads (which worked at TWS) last < 20 minutes. They crumbled before they wore out. We went to Porterfield R4s but could not dial out the brake hop at ECR. Glenn graciously gave us some Carbo Tech XP8s which seem to be the ticket. We are cracking rear rotors all the way to the edge now that we are using more of the braking of the car.

Tire Temperatures: For me Toyo R1s are fastest when they are warm, not cool, not hot. Learn the track before qualifying, because your fast lap will be early in the qualifying session. Question: what is all that wiggling I see everyone doing on the warm up lap?

Windshield wipers: are handy

Defroster: it worked! And being to see greatly enhances the driving experience.

Chassis issues: We are using up these cars, inspect for cracks. Look at the K member, the rear transmission cradle and the tunnel around the rear of the transmission. Safety wire all 5 bolts in the rear transmission support once you get tired of brake hopping them off the car.


See y'all on track in 2013.

Dan Allford #82