NOLA 2013 media

[Suck fumes]

20w50 is like syrup. Not sure that you would need something that thick.

Pranav get a Setrab oil cooler-$250. Get the one rated for 300hp. My oil temp never gets over 220.

[ShadowBolt]

20w50 is like syrup. Not sure that you would need something that thick.

Pranav get a Setrab oil cooler-$250. Get the one rated for 300hp. My oil temp never gets over 220.

Our mod motors run really cool. I run the stock two row radiator and while some were having trouble at NOLA my water never got over 190 degrees. Most of the mod motor builders say to run 0W20 or 5W20. I have been running the Valvoline racing oil because it has very High zinc/phosphorus. They don't make this in a 5W anything so I run 10W30 and so far it's been okay. At the end of a race the pressure will be around 20 PSI at 1000 RPM's. I guess I should hook up a cooler. I already have one just never installed it on this car.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ic-motor-oil/8

I'm not sure how we can really know what oil is the best (everyone thinks their iol is the best). When I worked in a shop the dirtiest engines I ever saw were running Pennzoil and the cleanest ran Havolene. This was way before synthetic oil was around.

JJ

[Pranav]

I mispoke, I meant 15w50. Yeah the Setrab or this really good cooler made by Derale are on the list. Planning on a fan for it too.

[Suck fumes]

In spec Miata guys used to get lab tests done on their used oil to find the "optimal oil". Believe it or not pennzoil platinum synthetic was actually the most protective! I run royal purple 5w20 and have never had an issue.

[Suck fumes]

Do u run a mech or elect gauge? Pretty crazy that your car stays at 190 the whole race! I would think running with other cars it would get higher at times?

[Pranav]

I may go with this cooler if I can make it fit (or bigger if theres room):
http://www.amazon.com/Derale-52510-S.../dp/B004XOR0LQ

I'm thinking of this for an oil filter sandwich adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/Derale-15735-N.../dp/B004XONTUW

I like the seperate spin-on nut adapter, allowing me to precisely control the location of the inlet/outlet ports, so I'd just run straight 10AN hose to the cooler tucked up along the block/pan with the appropriate 45/90 connections at the cooler.

However, the Canton looks to be a better piece since it actually replaces the bypass in the block instead of spinning on to it. Anyone use it, and does it let me clock the port locations?

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...DWICH-ADAPTER/

[Dulaney]

I'm going to try this thermo switch
http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/15721/10002/-1
with this cooler/fan combo
http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/15820/10002/-1

I figure -8 is plenty. By using the fan version, I'm not required to mount it on the bumper, which seems to take some damage with my off-track excursions.
I'm not fighting overheating issues, though. Simply doing it as added insurance while I'm plumbing for the accusump anyway.

I bought this when it was first released, but never used it (until now)
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-ad...gine-p-68.html

[ShadowBolt]

Do u run a mech or elect gauge? Pretty crazy that your car stays at 190 the whole race! I would think running with other cars it would get higher at times?

I never see it go over 200 except at Hallett in tracffic (200-210). It used to run way hotter before I installed the radiator wind deflector. It is an electric gauge set-up so it may not be perfect but it has never pushed any water like the 5.0 would.


JJ

[GlennCMC70]

I use M1 15/50. I used it in my LS1 Camaro and I use it in my LT1 Camaro. Motor was built in 2007. I've run countless races on this motor....
All of 2007 season, 2008, season, 2009 season, 1/2 of 2010 season (crash). I've run the National events in 2007, 2008, 2009. I've run some long ass enduro's at TWS and ran every lap of them. I think we ran 3 total. One was so long it counted as a full season of CMC racing.

I change it every other event and use a new filter w/ every change.
With that said, I had very bad oil pressure at TWS. Most of the weekend I was @ 0 on the guage at 5K on the front straight. I'm not sure where the problem is. The motor is coming out for a health check and at least a fresh set of bearings. After all that track time, its about time. Not bad for a $1700 long block rebuild. $100-$150 for bearings and machine shop labor and I'll be good for another 5-6 years.

[AllZWay]

I don't have an oil temp guage and don't want to know. I ran the first engine 5 years with mostly Royal Purple 10-40 and it was a 135k pull out engine.