Looking for a new motor for next season: what should I run?

[MikeS]

The orange #36 is going to need a new motor, most likely, as the current 4.6 2V even rebuilt will probably put down a max of 330 or so. Car weighs 3350 w driver w no ABS so I could run up to 372 ish HP. Right now I'm putting down 306 at best.

What should I run for $5K or so? Anyone have a spare they'd like to get rid of?

Thank you and see you next weekend in College Station, smoking like a chimney.

[Suck fumes]

Sell the Car and go spec iron! That's what all the cool people are doing.

[marshall_mosty]

Mike,
If you have a $5K budget, you could easily put together a 331'ish 5.0L based. MFW would be able to chew on your ear about a well prepped 4.6 2V, but I think his was around 10K to duplicate... Also, FR crate motors have worked for Dr. Frank.

I'm running a 331 zero balance motor with "little" GT40X heads (1.94/1.54 valves) and put down 323/345 (IIRC). If you went with a larger head like a AFR 185, you'd easily be in the ballpark with a 10.0:1 331 motor.

[Suck fumes]

Dude talk to Kevin crocie over at Jason's. He can build you a 4.6 making 370hp pretty easy with the right parts.

[edrock96GT]

If you could make 330hp, your car would need to weigh 2970. That's very doable. Or put the ABS back and 3052 is even easier! As it is now, I'm looking to come in under 2800 with an empty tank and I haven't really got TOO crazy with things. Just an aluminum block and fiberglass/carbon fiber where allowed. Other than that, if you don't need it, toss it.

Watch the ounces and the pounds take care of themselves.

[MikeS]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. Eddie: I just don't see where I can shed almost 400 lbs from this car/driver combo. I have 20 lbs to lose from my gut, I guess. However maybe it's possible. Aaron: I have a text in to Jason and we'll probably talk this week.

Some combo of weight reduction and power increase should make me a little more competitive. However, I still have to learn how to drive...

Alternative could be to run a different car in AI, SI or CMC. Anyone want an overweight, underpowered AI car?

[edrock96GT]

It can be done. I weigh 200lbs so that puts my car at under 2600 by itself and they're both SN-95s. We can look through your car over a few beers and see what all can be replaced or removed. Even if it's not 400lbs, I'm sure we can make a big dent.

[marshall_mosty]

Anything that doesn't provide structural rigidity, help accelerate, brake, or turn get's thrown away. I got my AI car down to 2760 with me in the car at one point... That's sub 2600 without driver (was 170 at the time), post race...

You just have to think outside the box.

[edrock96GT]

You just have to think outside the box.

Or replace the box with carbon fiber.

[AI#97]

a big bore, aluminum 4.6 with the TFS heads and a good intake (you have the same P51 I was using) will net you 350-370 rwhp pretty easily. I was going to chase 400rwhp with my old motor but you are going to need compression and big cams. With that comes $10/gallon race gas and revving to 7500rpm with a very peaky hp curve and losing some low end torque. You could build a big bore stroker and make great torque and hp all day, but you will run out of head. That being said, you are looking at $10-12k for a build, however, if maintained right, and beaten hard, it should last a few seasons. Mine lasted 7 years and all I had was a head gasket failure due to torqueing the heads incorrectly. I sold that motor complete to a guy running e85 and about to put a 200 shot on it.

Personally, the days of pushrod motors in AI are over. Also, in your case with the transmission (don't know what you are running), going to a Windsor is going to require a new K-member, new bell housing or trans, and lot's of different stuff. Running a torque monster motor with 3.55's ain't cutting it. You need a flexible motor with a WIDE rpm range. Think 7500-8000 and 4.10 gears. Depending on how serious you are, you could step up to a 3V crate motor with the hot rod cams, or go all in and get a coyote swap. I LOVE mine but I think you may have to restrict it.

If I were you, I would lose all the weight in the car you can first. if you are still running an iron block, there is 85lbs right there by going aluminum. Run a cast 2V crank saves a couple pounds and so do light weight rods. There is a TON of steel that can be removed and if you want, look over my car this weekend for ideas. You can't get it as light as Rock's car as the 99+ cars are heavier, but mine is 2670# dry and is about as good an example as you will find for getting an Sn99 LIGHT. I plan on rolling across the scales this weekend at 3000 or less and I am fat at 270# with gear.

If you want to talk, feel free to ask questions. I can point you in the right direction. However, simplest way is build the 2V you have similar to what I had, and lose the weight. I'd put that combo of motor/car/driver against anything that showed up at miller this year. No need to buy more HP if you get the weight down. tires last longer, brakes last longer and can be lighter...yadda yadda yadda.

I need to write a full dissertation on this and charge for it! Oh, yeah, I also build cars and have reasonable shop labor rates! And I could even sell you my car as it's available too!