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Thread: LT1 intake air temperature question

  1. #31
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Lol thanks, part of the persistence comes from not wanting to do another motor swap soon, and just trying to fix things right the first time rather than foolishly throwing parts at it as I've done in the past.

    Mine was running at 230-235 no matter what I'd do. Just going to fix the airflow and swap to regular/lower stock heat range plugs and see what happens at NOLA. Think I'll throw it on the dyno one more time to be safe.
    Last edited by Pranav; 08-26-2014 at 11:58 AM.

  2. #32
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Never updated this. So I went and threw it back on the dyno last week to see what it would do after a solid race weekend.

    The only thing changed since the last dyno and hallet:
    1. Back to stock TR55 plugs, down from the "colder" TR6s I ran at Hallett (went up one step colder in my panic to fix misfires)
    2. Fixed burnt plug wire (this didn't cause problems at Hallett, maybe I shifted the insulating shield loose on the tow home or in the garage...)

    -A/F ratio was solidly in the 12.5-12.7 range at WOT like it was last time.

    -Coolant temps were a bit more stable, last time it got over 220 easily after a few pulls, this time it was around 200-205 after a few pulls, and it was much hotter outside.

    -Oil filter came out clean as usual, not a single piece of debris.

    I will see what it does at TWS, but it jives with my theory that the colder plugs (more heat transfer to head/water jacket) could've helped elevate my cyl head water temps at Hallett, despite Hallett being Hallett.

    http://www.import-car.com/tech-tip-u...ug-heat-range/

    So in short, run the stock ****ing plugs if you're running less-than-stock power and compression levels.
    Last edited by Pranav; 09-17-2014 at 04:49 PM.

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