High; the needle was vertical and touching that orange mark in the gauge - in my car I figure it just means to keep going.Originally Posted by Pranav
Seriously though, it was hot but the gauge would start moving down within a couple of corners on the cool down lap and the PCM never went into limp mode. I don't recall seeing any steam and I believe Scott check the water Sunday morning and it was full.
No idea on oil temps but I'm pretty sure it will be black when I change it.
#39 CMC Camaro
Orange is Fast!
CMC-NT01 FTW!
Good to hear. I had thought you were running lower than that but may have confused your experience with someone else's.
I had my oil temp warning set to 270*F; after the first race I bumped it up to 300*F; quick checks showed I never got above 280*F (it doesn't display temp unless I switch pages on the dash). I haven't even fully ducted my oil cooler yet
I've got the mesh in front of mine and still had a bunch of crap get in the fins. One other thing to think about is the finer the mesh the less surface area you have for air to enter.
8 weekends ago, right after Hallet:
-Fill tank up with Sta-bil additive
-Pulled/checked another oil filter, came back clean
-Extended idle test (to let sta-bil circulate), all is good in the hood with no codes/misfires/noises
-Fill car up with junk and park it
This weekend I get the car running and put it up on stands to start on my list of stuff to do/cleanup on the car...
After a while, once the car warmed up, I noticed an erratic tap tap tap coming from the exhaust pipe, a little while later I get a code for misfire cylinder #7.
Since I was going to go ahead and switch back to stock heat range plugs (ran one step colder as part of previous issue's diagnostic, turned out unnecessary), I went ahead and pulled the plug on this cylinder. It looked fine so I put a stock heat range plug back in and fired it up.
Still had the erratic tap tap tap coming from the exhaust but it seemed to have decreased, if I revved it up to 2-3k RPMs then let off back to idle, it would go away for a while (at idle), but then come back.
I pull the #7 injector plug with it running and the tapping becomes constant. Putting that one back in and started pulling random injector plug wires. On each of the others, if I pulled the plug the frequency of the tap tap tap would increase, but not become constant like it did on #7.
Next I lifted the fuel rail off the intake so the injector ends were out, then cranked it. None of the injectors were leaking when closed, but I really could not tell much by the spray patterns when each one opened. I want to say the driver's side (where #7 is) was weaker, but can't tell.
Finally all through this I began watching long term fuel trim. Bank 1 (where #7 is, driver's side) was initially at +9%, bank 2 at around +2-3%. Not sure if these numbers are of concern or not.
In the end after messing with the spark plug and injectors, I did a reset and ran it again, it seemed to have decreased in frequency and the bank 1 long term fuel trim went down to +5% with bank 2 still at +2-3%.
It started getting late so I could not do any further diagnostic, nor leave it idling too long (#7 misfire code hadn't come back yet), but the popping/tapping out the exhaust remained in lesser intensity.
Went ahead and pulled the injectors and will have them checked again this week while I'm away from the car until the weekend.
Things to note:
- #7 is the last injector to get fuel before it goes to the regulator/return
- Before I ever fired up the new motor, I had the fuel rails and injectors cleaned, replumbed everything from the pump to the rails with 6AN PTFE and a 1 micron canton filter
-Could not see any burn marks or issues with #7 plug wire, forgot to ohm/check it further before running out of time. Will check this weekend.
Here I was thinking I'd just have a simple to do list with nothing new to fix. Sounds like the car is punishing me for being away from it for so long.
I'll be asking some more questions if the injectors come back OK...
Last edited by Pranav; 08-18-2014 at 09:58 AM.
Called the injector shop. They said they all needed a cleaning but were not "problematic." #7 was "fine" and i'll get my hands on the numbers later today or tomorrow when I pick them up.
My suspicion is that I didnt clean out the supply line well out enough after cutting the hoses with the chop saw, not big stuff.
What on earth else can go wrong from the car sitting for 8 weeks for it to start misfiring one cylinder?
I'll be checking plug wires and figure out how to check compression in that tight space as next steps along with the (planned) rechecking/resetting of rockers. Wish I had more time last Sunday to properly check everything out...
If that doesn't pan out, I have a 96 OBD2 setup, how can I scan everything that's going on with injector pulses and misfire counts using my laptop and a obd2 cable? Software to get??? I've been using a normal scanner using a bluetooth adapter and the phone to get limited realtime info and pull codes. Time to get more detailed before I try throwing parts at it...
Last edited by Pranav; 08-20-2014 at 11:50 AM.
time to upgrade to an LS1.....and it just so happens we have one with a k-member ready to go for you!
Ah, fugg it.
The thought has crossed my mind many times. I feel like I've gone too far down the lt1 rabbit hole to come back out again.
Picked up the injectors, I was told the "dirty" was caused by some black material but no varnish/rust unlike last time. Its the residue from the black metal cutting blade I used to cut the lines. Still waiting on the final flow numbers but I was advised that they weren't anything to worry about, probably <5% loss is my guess.
Car gets fired up this weekend and will see what's next to find and fix is simply putting the injectors back on doesnt do anything. Ordered a spark checker and some long arm heat sleeves so I can get in there and check stuff for real this time. Also will check for bent pushrods while re-checking the rockers.
Being a perfectionist can be frustrating.
Rob Liebbe - Texas Region
Camaro, Mustang, doesn't matter to me, I'll race it.
Spark testers are now my favorite tool.
#7 plug wire was burned, no way to see until I pulled it out completely.
I had made all new plug wires for the new motor before it went in, looks like the heat sleeve that kept it insulated from the manifold slipped loose.
Back to work...
A leaky plug wire can be quite noisy. You're as thorough as I'd be if I had the energy and fewer projects. For reference to an old/above post, my coolant temps at Hallett (and pretty much everywhere else) were solid at 210 and oil stayed around 275 unless I was up somebody's ass too long, then the coolant would creep to 230 and oil to 300ish. That's why I got the Redline, it can take the heat and not eat my motor. I do have a redneck circle track radiator with integral oil cooler and a coarse screen at the inlet of my bumper.
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