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Thread: Problem filling stock tank?

  1. #21
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlennCMC70 View Post
    The evap can on 99-02 fbodys is located on top of the tank.
    LT1 cars have it on the driver side behind the rear tire hidden by a plastic shield.
    Are V6 cars the same way? I'm kinda thinking vented cap and vacuum switching valve, so it vents to atmosphere when the ignition is on and stays shut when off, but can still vent via the cap if I leave it in the trailer in the middle of summer.

  2. #22
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Finally got in there and took out the check valves, now have a 1/2" hose to a 1/4" NPT fitting at bottom of the catch can, 3/8" hose 1/8" NPT fitting at the top of the can going under/back.

    Quote Originally Posted by Supercharged111 View Post
    Are V6 cars the same way? I'm kinda thinking vented cap and vacuum switching valve, so it vents to atmosphere when the ignition is on and stays shut when off, but can still vent via the cap if I leave it in the trailer in the middle of summer.
    With a solenoid shutting off on ignition kill, you could end up running into the same issue I did; what Glenn alluded to is what I've been running in to so far. Any slight amount of pressure can cause the fill valve to jam up. With my prior check valve arrangement, the tank always saw between -1 and +1 psi, which is likely why the fill valve kept jamming in the up position, because the it had +1 psi against it.

    A simple manual ball valve is the way to go, just flip it for storage.

    Hoping to get to TWS this Friday to test it all out...
    Last edited by Pranav; 02-09-2015 at 01:57 AM.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    My fill valve no longer exists, I was just spitballing a way to keep the car from reeking up the trailer so bad.

  4. #24
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Are you running a plastic tank or metal? I have the metal, can't remove the fill valve.

    Anyways at TWS with the new setup today, I was able to fill a hot tank up to 90% within minutes of getting off track, letting it cool off for a tiny bit let me get that last 10% in.

    I'm happy; if I want any better performance for being serious about enduros, a fuel cell would be on order. This will work well for my purposes for now.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    I have a metal tank.

  6. #26
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    I was black flagged during R4 for excessive fuel dumping.

    I've got a number or ideas, but before i get into details of what all I've tried so far, what are all of the 4th gen, metal tank guys doing for fuel venting? Please post up, it would be of great help.

  7. #27
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    If the 98 tanks are any better, I have one at my shop.
    Tyler Gardner
    CMC #13 2015-2017
    SM #013 2018
    www.dfwmustangs.net

  8. #28
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    My white 98 model has a metal tank but as far as I know it's all stock. I'll look to see. Though I'm worried about my fuel pump-once it's hot it whines more than I do around a campfire. Then this weekend the pressure would bleed down to 0 and I would have to cycle the key several times to get the pressure to come up. I believe there is a check ball somewhere but thought that may also indicate the pump is going out. Would like to just drop a later model pump out of my 02 in it but I think there are some differences? Anyone know?
    Glad you made the weekend and didn't have any motor trouble.
    Bryan Leinart
    CMC #24

  9. #29
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pranav View Post
    I was black flagged during R4 for excessive fuel dumping.

    I've got a number or ideas, but before i get into details of what all I've tried so far, what are all of the 4th gen, metal tank guys doing for fuel venting? Please post up, it would be of great help.
    As you know, but neck is bashed open to fit a big mouth can. As far as the vent goes, it's just an open hose routed up and zip tied next to the cap. It never hisses when I take the cap off and doesn't dump on the track. Stinks the hell out of the trailer, but after seeing your asspain it seems like a small price to pay. With a vented cap, it seems to me I ought to be able to simply fit a vacuum switching valve in the vent hose and have it open whenever ignition power is on.

  10. #30
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supercharged111 View Post
    As you know, but neck is bashed open to fit a big mouth can. As far as the vent goes, it's just an open hose routed up and zip tied next to the cap. It never hisses when I take the cap off and doesn't dump on the track. Stinks the hell out of the trailer, but after seeing your asspain it seems like a small price to pay. With a vented cap, it seems to me I ought to be able to simply fit a vacuum switching valve in the vent hose and have it open whenever ignition power is on.
    From what I gather at this point, I'm running into a combination of three issues; I have a 1/2" hose going down low out of the tank, and the final outlet of the vent sits below the the top of the tank where the vent hose starts; additionally the 1/2" hose starts off from both 5/16 and 3/8 vent fittings tee-d together, which is a no-no.

    It seems like the 1/2" hose is pooling up and not allowing any fuel in fluid form to not get sucked back in when the tank cools off, and the output being down low initiates a siphon effect.

    The correct way would be to ditch all that, cap the 5/16" port, run a long 3/8" hose up high and make sure the outlet is up high (like your setup).

    The other solution would be to acquire and install all the stock EVAP hardware, but I was missing all of that from day 1, built the car from parts...

    I would still recommend not running an electric solenoid (what's the short/arc protection internally in the solenoid?), but instead just have a simple ball valve you can flip when you store the car...

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