I remember steam boiling out of your ears too.Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
I remember steam boiling out of your ears too.
I paid $179.00 last year and that is what the web site says. If I can get it for $125.00 at the track it may be worth it.
JJ
Things took a turn for the better. Ended up pulling an all nighter thanks to fighting with that gdamn freeze plug all night. Finally got it out after numerous hours of trying to yank it out from an awkward corner of engine. I then took a rubber adjustable plug and tightened it up, no way I was going to try hammer in another brass plug at an angle! Sealed right up and held 20psi forever.
Went on to scramble to finish the car with no sleep, made it to the last dyno slot of the day. Car ran strong with no issues. No strange/leaks noises, and the oil filter came back "good" for a break in when I got home and cut it open.
Getting a good nights sleep, have a bunch of cleanup stuff to knock out, and I'm good to go.
Was really hoping to get a solid alignment on the car as I have too much camber now that I'm on stiffer springs, may solicit help at MSRC...
Much thanks Jordan but I'll go scoop them up from Morgan on the way up, he gets off work a little later in the evening and I won't be there till then anyways.
Lol, my desire to dyno has nothing to do with compliance, and everything with diagnostic. For me towing the car 30 minutes away from the garage on a weekday and paying $100 to watch the dyno beat on the car and check for issues gives me plenty of piece of mind going into an event. Better for me to find a problem on the dyno at home than at the track 300 miles away from home...
I paid $100 for an hour's time, came out to at least 10 pulls. $179 for 3 pulls that is highway robbery!
Last edited by Pranav; 03-12-2015 at 10:57 PM.
I'd bring a spare rubber plug to the track if I were you. They blew them out regularly on Roadkill in the Ranchero road trip episode.
Motor performed quite well this weekend. Oil filters have come back clean so far, no funny noises. Was also happy to see that the oil pan now seals correctly after massaging the ridges on the engine stand and being more aggressive with the RTV. Back side of pan was bone dry!
I still however, have a persistent front crank seal. 3 blocks/cranks, 2 timing covers, 4 different brands of seals, an ATI steel hub, and an ATI aluminum hub, still leaks a good amount and makes a mess. Got bigger fish to fry at the moment...
Oh yeah, I brought spare metal and rubber plugs.
The rubber plug didn't leak a drop the entire weekend. Keep it in or try a brass one again? Easy to test in the garage with the pressure tester...
Last edited by Pranav; 03-16-2015 at 01:42 PM.
Freeze plug is holding plenty fine, clean oil filters, and motor is leak free with exception to that front crank seal. It has made the same mess up front across all three of my builds (2 sets of heads, 2 short blocks, 3 cranks), plus my first, used motor that had one or more bad rings, with 4-5 different brands of seals, two timing covers, and two different crank hubs. General consensus is motor is not breathing right, PCV not sufficient; tried two different styles of PCV valves and other crap over the past 2 years. I'd normally let it go but it is a HUGE leak and I've previously opened up an opti with some evidence of oil intrusion before. Going to convert to an open breather setup and hope it fixes it; this should be my last issue...
Last edited by Pranav; 04-05-2015 at 11:38 PM.
So now to keep the car pointed in the forward direction. . .
At some point during the weekend the computer decided it needed +20% more fuel on bank 1 (driver's) side.
Car seemed to run OK during the last race but may potentially explain my feeling of being down on power on day 1. Not one to make excuse about my driving but felt I was getting pulled on hard.
I logged the data from the last race and will review it when I get the chance.
Checked the oil filter and it is clean so going down this list once I get back near the car:
-Check for exhaust leaks
-Check/swap O2s side to side
-Lift/check injectors, swap side to side
-Check spark
-Check compression + plugs
What else?
Last edited by Pranav; 04-27-2015 at 09:16 AM.
Forgot to mention it would intermittently idle real low, like 600 RPMs...
Can you see your O2 voltage? 20% is pegged, i.e. the PCM will not add or subtract any more than 20% so could be a bad O2 sensor. My truck did this recently, but decided bank 2 needed 20% less fuel and suddenly I was driving a 4 cylinder. Since I had the laptop with me when it did this, I switched over to open loop on the fly and the truck ran fine. I posted my logs and someone pointed me to where the right O2 would peg at 1100mV and my fuel trims along with it. What kind of software are you using?
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