October 2016 TWS - Pics, Video, and Musings

[dtanker65]

What tire would be an alternative? I would love to find a cheap practice tire. I have tried the Rivals looking for a long lasting practice tire. They disintegrated at the splice after five sessions on the smooth MSR surface. Tire Rack gave a full refund FWIW.

The RA1 as I understand is the same compound as the RR, but needs to be shaved to run in the dry to avoid chunking. I thought the RR is basically the equivalent of a shaved RA1?

Bill Ahga has a lot of experience with these tires, he uses them completely up before they get old, like I do. Now that I have the car square and drivie it properly, I can run the RR bald without cording. For my car the RR is good for 13 cycles before they get greasy. I am not noticeably faster on stickers versus 10 cycle tires, the car is more lively on old tires but still runs consistent on lap times.

I can't figure this out. Do the RR tires perform better for longer on a heavy car? I have been helped out by a couple of SCCA champions driving heavy cars on Hoosiers. They claim the Hoosier would be up to two seconds faster, but they would never even consider using 10 cycle tires. My only experience on Hoosiers is in a Miata and at 10 cycles they are worse than 200 utog street tires.

Any thoughts on cheaper tire alternatives that won't chunk on a heavy car.

[mach1]

Do we have any good solid data on the new RA1's? I think it's worth a shot to try them again, I am willing to show up to Houston with RA1's if we can agree on it class wide.

[Fbody383]

Any thoughts on cheaper tire alternatives that won't chunk on a heavy car.

Nitto NT-01. After we did a 4 hour enduro on a set I used them for inverts for most of a season.

http://www.nittotire.com/race-tires/...d-course-tire/

Could there be a chance that the new tire does not suit a particular platform? Or suits another more? Perbaps we were on the right track with platform adjustments and assumed the tire change made in the middle of all that would affect all equally.

I think this is where I am, which is where my questions comes from about significant rule changes over the last 2 years. So while I'm trying to stay neutral, the mustangs have put significant distance on the Fbody slackers.

[Supercharged111]

This weekend I swapped over from a corded set of 25 cycle RRs to sticker RRs. I gained a whopping 1/10 and I'm damn consistent at Pueblo. I realize some tracks differ from others, but I have not seen a significant lap time difference from RA1 to RR nor have I seen a big swing in my car's performance from new to old RRs. I will say that, since I can only squeeze 3 weekends from them, there is less of a decrease in my confidence in the car with old tires vs cording RA1s, but IMO putting that much stock in stickers is stupid. Then again, I race in a region where I am the fastest car. I don't want to shit on my Ford guys, but when I break away I simply gap them so I don't really feel like I have much of a dog in the fight of Ford vs Chevy rebalancing argument. That said, I can drive Hallett every bit as fast as I can at Pueblo, and I definitely saw more of a disparity at Hallett last year WRT lap times than back home at Pueblo where I'm less than .3 seconds off of Flyin' Brian's lap record. Not sure what my input's worth, but I hope to see you all at MSRC in March and re-evaluate from there. I will show up with stickers though based on others' advice.

[BADVENM]

Anyone know anything about the new Toyo R888R? How it compares to RA1's, R888's, RR's?

https://www.toyotires.com/tire/patte...petition-tires

From Toyo website

R888R - dry (4.5), wet (4.0), braking (4.5), tire life (4.5)
R888 - dry (4.0), wet (4.5), braking (4.5), tire life (4.5)
RR - dry (4.5), wet (zero), braking (4.5), tire life (4.0)
RA1 - dry (3.5), wet (5.0), braking (4.5), tire life (5.0)

[mach1]

Anyone know anything about the new Toyo R888R? How it compares to RA1's, R888's, RR's?

https://www.toyotires.com/tire/patte...petition-tires

From Toyo website

R888R - dry (4.5), wet (4.0), braking (4.5), tire life (4.5)
R888 - dry (4.0), wet (4.5), braking (4.5), tire life (4.5)
RR - dry (4.5), wet (zero), braking (4.5), tire life (4.0)
RA1 - dry (3.5), wet (5.0), braking (4.5), tire life (5.0)

Nice find, looks like the 888 is supported by the toyo contingency too.
I think we found a winner, they are only $180 a tire, but the largest size is 255/40ZR17 for 17's, lets do it!

[Fbody383]

Nice find, looks like the 888 is supported by the toyo contingency too.

The original 888s sucked, but I'm open to something like this if the class is.

I need tires for '17 but will show up to Hallett on RRs unless we have definitively addressed this prior to the event.

[dtanker65]

Nice find, looks like the 888 is supported by the toyo contingency too.
I think we found a winner, they are only $180 a tire, but the largest size is 255/40ZR17 for 17's, lets do it!

Tyler I doubt you would back away from a race if you had to run new old stock Montgomery Ward All Season Radials (especially in the wet)

My first set of R comps were NT01's. I was pretty green then but they seemed about like the RR's.

One factor we are failing to take into account is the track condition. I have run a few SCCA events where the majority of cars are running on full slicks or Hoosiers. They lay down a lot of rubber. On top of that rubber layer, the grip level of fresh RR's is phenomenal, like new sneakers on a basketball court. The slick rubber bonds to the track and the RR's stick well to the slick rubber. Nasa events run many hard street compound tires that scrub off the soft, grippy rubber from the track. Just a thought. Running with them other guys is too rich for my blood.

[mach1]

Tyler I doubt you would back away from a race if you had to run new old stock Montgomery Ward All Season Radials (especially in the wet)

You know me so well, takes me back to the days of taking out mustangs in my ls1 camaro that was rolling on all seasons, at least they were new new stock

[mitchntx]

I have a cat ...