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Thread: Brake pad callout!!

  1. #21
    Carbotech xp10 fronts, xp8 rears. I run 12.2" roundy round rotors under wilwood superlight calipers. Front pads are $200 delivered, four events a set minimum. Rears last for years, don't remember how much those cost.

    G-loch and carbotech are the same???
    Al Fernandez

  2. #22
    Senior Member Grass-Passer
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    Wilwood super lights in the front and LS rear brakes
    Pads are Hawk DTE 60s in the front, or Porterfield R4
    Hawk blue pads in the rear.
    My brakes last way too long, �� Not going fast enough ��

  3. #23
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Storm Trooper View Post
    Wilwood super lights in the front and LS rear brakes
    Pads are Hawk DTE 60s in the front, or Porterfield R4
    Hawk blue pads in the rear.
    My brakes last way too long, �� Not going fast enough ��
    I used to run the DTE 60's on the rear and PFC11's in the front. I tried going to the R4's in the front but with the DTE 60's in the rear I looped it under braking at EGR several times during practice. I really liked the feel of the R4 (almost can't lock them up) but I would have had to go with a stock rear pad. Never tried it. If you can make the R4 work for you they are cheap. Like just $200.00 a set if I remember.

    JJ

  4. #24
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Fernandez View Post
    G-loch and carbotech are the same???
    Yeah, a bunch of Carbotech guys left and started G-LOC. If you look at their site and list of compounds its all exactly the same as the Carbotech site and the compounds are all exact replacemens.

    http://www.ctbrakes.com/brake-compounds.asp#4
    http://www.g-locbrakes.com/products/...nds/g-loc-r10/

    There was apparently a lot of drama pointed at the remaining guys running Carbotech. I still kept ordering Carbotechs, but my last two sets of pads have had issues with the friction material bulging out too much from the backing plate making them impossible to slide into the caliper without grinding the excess material off first.

    I have a set of replacement G-LOC R10s going in next.
    Last edited by Pranav; 03-30-2017 at 01:33 PM.

  5. #25
    Junior Member Rookie WutApex's Avatar
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    I run KFPs. Never heard of them before I bought the car a couple years ago, but I really like them.

    Had Raybestos ST43s on the other car and would.list as my favorite. Had a coupon for Hawk so went with DTC60s this time around.

  6. #26
    Yeah, I've had that issue with carbotechs! Definitely will go with G-loc then next time.
    Al Fernandez

  7. #27
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pranav View Post
    I still kept ordering Carbotechs, but my last two sets of pads have had issues with the friction material bulging out too much from the backing plate making them impossible to slide into the caliper without grinding the excess material off first.

    I have a set of replacement G-LOC R10s going in next.
    Quote Originally Posted by Al Fernandez View Post
    Yeah, I've had that issue with carbotechs! Definitely will go with G-loc then next time.
    Just installed my G-LOC R10s and still had the same issue, but it wasn't as bad as the carbotechs. I took off the anti rattle/shims that sit between the caliper body and pads and they slid right in. Works for me.

  8. #28
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    I've never bought a race pad that came with those anti-squeal shims. Seems like even if you did leave them in they'd have an adverse impact on pedal feel?
    RM CMC Director

  9. #29
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supercharged111 View Post
    I've never bought a race pad that came with those anti-squeal shims. Seems like even if you did leave them in they'd have an adverse impact on pedal feel?

    No, these aren't the shims that go between the pads and the pistons. These are just locating shims/sliders that sit between the sides of the pad and the wilwood caliper body. I suppose they are there to stop the pads from wearing away at the aluminum caliper body over time. I took mine out and the G-LOCs slide right in. If I wanted to keep the shims I would have to grind/file the edges of the pads for them to slide in.

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