Diff Cover Drain

[Pranav]

I'm pretty confident the reason for Gm having worse rear end reliability than the Fords is all due to axle hop and no diff cover is going to fix that. I've never blown a rear end, and only rebuilt mine recently because the 13 or so yr old T2R was feeling like it wasn't working well any more.

So what can we do about eliminating axle hop?

If there's one major platform disparity, it's that fact that F-bodies have to drive and brake bias around rear axle hop while the ford guys can actually use their rear brakes and go fully aggressive with brake compound.

If I understand correctly it can be as simple as converting the nose end of the torque arm to be a sliding type instead if a fixed bushing with no other geometry changes.

[Sook]

So what can we do about eliminating axle hop?

If there's one major platform disparity, it's that fact that F-bodies have to drive and brake bias around rear axle hop while the ford guys can actually use their rear brakes and go fully aggressive with brake compound.

If I understand correctly it can be as simple as converting the nose end of the torque arm to be a sliding type instead if a fixed bushing with no other geometry changes.

As an alternative, we could allow torque arms on mustangs to induce wheel hop.

[Fbody383]

6.33.7 Suspension bushing material is unrestricted.

Does this include the torque arm bushing?

[RichardP]

So what can we do about eliminating axle hop?

If there's one major platform disparity, it's that fact that F-bodies have to drive and brake bias around rear axle hop while the ford guys can actually use their rear brakes and go fully aggressive with brake compound.

If I understand correctly it can be as simple as converting the nose end of the torque arm to be a sliding type instead if a fixed bushing with no other geometry changes.

Apparently one of the best fixes for axle hop is a stiffer, aftermarket torque arm that doesn't attach to the transmission. Other than that, you are playing with spring/damping/tire pressures to make the car less likely to hop. When that inevitably doesn't work, you crank the rear bias to almost turn the rear brakes off...


Richard P.

[Pranav]

Apparently one of the best fixes for axle hop is a stiffer, aftermarket torque arm that doesn't attach to the transmission. Other than that, you are playing with spring/damping/tire pressures to make the car less likely to hop. When that inevitably doesn't work, you crank the rear bias to almost turn the rear brakes off...


Richard P.

Fixed that for you. I know the the Mustangs have a shitty rear suspension, but are at least able to run ideal rear brake compounds and spring rates. We, not so much...

[Pranav]

Gary's street 3rd gen has a nice sliding type bushing that uses an otherwise stock torque arm setup, will see if he can send pics.

It involved modifying a stock torque arm.

[Pranav]

As my own data point, I've tried two seperate times to run XP8 carbotechs in the rear (XP10 in the front).

Each time I've had to pull them and go back to parts store ceramics to cut the bite out of the rear, so I can actually go deep into my brakes without upsetting the rear. Using a brake bias adjuster creates more problems in that the ability to modulate and control pressure spikes to the front brakes is further reduced (more likely to lockup).

We're all driving around a glaring issue and it would be nice, as a group, to be able to engineer a cheap, effective solution that doesn't give us a huge advantage like a decoupled torque arm or any other major geometry changes.

I'll see if I can get a picture of this front bushing thing. It looked neat/simple.

[Pranav]

Here's a setup I'm willing to test.

Replace the torque arm with a tubular unit and heim joint front.

No changes in geometry and I'm replacing a stock piece with a heavier one.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/041...nsion-upgrades

[Sook]

Here's a setup I'm willing to test.

Replace the torque arm with a tubular unit and heim joint front.

No changes in geometry and I'm replacing a stock piece with a heavier one.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/041...nsion-upgrades

Interesting concept. Worth a try to see if it solves your problem. I think the torque arm shaft going through the center of the heim joint might gall over time. It would also be better if the heim joint was held into a bore with snap rings or the like. Welding the outside of the bearing isn't going to be good for the life of the joint.

I think the factory torque arms arm free to move fore and aft, albeit with some friction in the bushing. The factory setup probably doesn't allow for angular changes as well. Has anyone tried a squishy rubber bushing to see if the issue is better or worse? We have urethane torque arm bushings on the Red Shift cars.

- Josh

[Pranav]

I lube the shit out of mine before sticking it in.

I don't even unbolt the clamshell anymore I just tug on it to get it out.