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Thread: Diff Cover Drain

  1. #51
    Quote Originally Posted by Pranav View Post
    Here's a setup I'm willing to test.

    Replace the torque arm with a tubular unit and heim joint front.

    No changes in geometry and I'm replacing a stock piece with a heavier one.

    http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/041...nsion-upgrades
    Interesting concept. Worth a try to see if it solves your problem. I think the torque arm shaft going through the center of the heim joint might gall over time. It would also be better if the heim joint was held into a bore with snap rings or the like. Welding the outside of the bearing isn't going to be good for the life of the joint.

    I think the factory torque arms arm free to move fore and aft, albeit with some friction in the bushing. The factory setup probably doesn't allow for angular changes as well. Has anyone tried a squishy rubber bushing to see if the issue is better or worse? We have urethane torque arm bushings on the Red Shift cars.

    - Josh
    CMC #50

  2. #52
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    I lube the shit out of mine before sticking it in.

    I don't even unbolt the clamshell anymore I just tug on it to get it out.

  3. #53
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby marshall_mosty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pranav View Post
    I lube the shit out of mine before sticking it in.... I just tug on it to get it out.
    Sounds like a MAJOR personal issue, especially considering the time of the post. Wrong website and forum??
    LOL
    Marshall Mosty
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  4. #54
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    We're talking about sliding our torque arms in/out smoothly and making sure we avoid our rear ends from bouncing while doing it. Not sure what you're referring to?

  5. #55
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pranav View Post
    Here's a setup I'm willing to test.

    Replace the torque arm with a tubular unit and heim joint front.

    No changes in geometry and I'm replacing a stock piece with a heavier one.

    http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/041...nsion-upgrades
    That dude shelled out all that cash to LG to make an automatic car turn.
    RM CMC Director

  6. #56
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    The f-body aftermarket was built on one Jean shorts dad shoes gold chain wearing guy's wallet at a time.

  7. #57
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    But yeah I spent a solid minute trying to figure out why the trans mountt was going next to the oil pan lol

  8. #58

    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by Pranav View Post
    We're talking about sliding our torque arms in/out smoothly and making sure we avoid our rear ends from bouncing while doing it. Not sure what you're referring to?
    I mean sometimes it is a torque arm. Just depends on the position of the rear end...

  9. #59
    The OE rubber bushings are preferable than the urethane IMHO. The urethane just adds friction fore/aft and bind bump/droop. Neither is good.
    Al Fernandez

  10. #60
    Not making eye contact.............or sounding off too loudly
    But, bumps also tear up rear ends. Freeze thaw cycles north of the mason dixon cause ripples in tracks.
    So, in this case...."bouncing rear ends", is not good.
    Its is widely accepted that the 8.8 holds up to abuse better then the 10 bolt.

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