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Thread: Cobra Brake Rotors

  1. #1
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    Cobra Brake Rotors

    Any reason to not buy the cheap rotors from somewhere like oreillys. I see lmr and others listing rotors for quite a bit more.

  2. #2
    I've been running a set of Duralast Cobra rotors from Autozone for years. The first few years we'd get the typical heat cracks and the last several years we would rotate the car forward or backward after a track outing to dissipate the heat in a separate area of the rotor. We get a full season out of the rotors including crossover events, nationals and test and tune before nationals.

    For 2018 we tried a Ford manufactured rotor that was a little less money. We were able to run a full season on them minus cross over events but did run test and tune before nationals and nationals.

    For Team Incidental Contact we cant argue about the durability, reliability, etc about the inexpensive brake rotors.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    I run the "good" rotors that Advance sells. I've never gotten a full season out of any rotor, these are cheaper and last as long as Napa's best. Hallett is a death sentence to any parts store rotor. I showed up with brand new rotors this year and at the next event both rotors cracked. Typically I show up with rotors with a couple races on them and they die at Hallett. 2 piece rotors is on the to do list because I'm sick of keeping an ear open for a rotor about to let go in the pits.
    RM CMC Director

  4. #4
    Senior Member Rookie 39PitCrew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supercharged111 View Post
    I run the "good" rotors that Advance sells. I've never gotten a full season out of any rotor, these are cheaper and last as long as Napa's best. Hallett is a death sentence to any parts store rotor. I showed up with brand new rotors this year and at the next event both rotors cracked. Typically I show up with rotors with a couple races on them and they die at Hallett. 2 piece rotors is on the to do list because I'm sick of keeping an ear open for a rotor about to let go in the pits.
    This is my somewhat non-scientific observation - I'm sure someone else can correct me if I stray into nonsense land.
    David uses the OReally rotors. We were routinely getting more than a year out of them before
    they cracked a face. Near the end of life we'd see a lot of surface checking though.

    A new rotor is more likely to crack at Hallett due to the extreme heat cycling that happens there.
    A rotor that has been work hardened through many less-severe track sessions should be fine at Hallett.
    At least that is my observation from wrenching on OiF #39. Also, a big player, again from my
    experience with #39 at Hallett, is to make sure you have a nearly new brake pads on the front
    rotors so the heat capacity of the pad is a little better (also more pad reduces the brake fluid
    heat uptake a little bit I would think).

    Just my 2¢.
    Last edited by 39PitCrew; 10-28-2018 at 03:58 PM.
    --
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby marshall_mosty's Avatar
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    When I ran the 13” Cobra setup, I used O’Reilley’s rotors and the would last an average of 3 track DAYS. After going to the floating rotor setup and 4-piston Stoptech setup, the first used set of rotor rings lasted three seasons (and never failed, were just replaced prior to a failure). The “new” set went four seasons before I parted out the car.
    Marshall Mosty
    AI/SI Texas Regional Director
    2011 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
    AI #67 "Mosty Brothers' Racing" (RIP)
    ST6 #21 Toyota Corolla (being revived)...

  6. #6
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 39PitCrew View Post
    This is my somewhat non-scientific observation - I'm sure someone else can correct me if I stray into nonsense land.
    David uses the OReally rotors. We were routinely getting more than a year out of them before
    they cracked a face. Near the end of life we'd see a lot of surface checking though.

    A new rotor is more likely to crack at Hallett due to the extreme heat cycling that happens there.
    A rotor that has been work hardened through many less-severe track sessions should be fine at Hallett.
    At least that is my observation from wrenching on OiF #39. Also, a big player, again from my
    experience with #39 at Hallett, is to make sure you have a nearly new brake pads on the front
    rotors so the heat capacity of the pad is a little better (also more pad reduces the brake fluid
    heat uptake a little bit I would think).

    Just my 2¢.
    Well there's your problem, the #39 is your point of reference.
    RM CMC Director

  7. #7
    Senior Member Rookie 39PitCrew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supercharged111 View Post
    Well there's your problem, the #39 is your point of reference.
    Point taken. LOL
    --
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    Laissez les bons temps rouler

  8. #8
    Senior Member Rookie 39PitCrew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marshall_mosty View Post
    When I ran the 13” Cobra setup, I used O’Reilley’s rotors and the would last an average of 3 track DAYS. After going to the floating rotor setup and 4-piston Stoptech setup, the first used set of rotor rings lasted three seasons (and never failed, were just replaced prior to a failure). The “new” set went four seasons before I parted out the car.
    Just curious, assume you had brake ducts for both of those configurations.
    We have had trouble getting good ducting set up on #39. I think Pranav has
    one of the better duct setups for the 4th gens. I know at Hallett good
    air flow across the rotors really makes a difference for heat dissipation and
    in late race brake modulation, which I would bet is brake fluid temp related
    as much as pad/rotor temp.
    Thoughts?
    --
    ------__o
    -----_\ <,_
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    Laissez les bons temps rouler

  9. #9
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby marshall_mosty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 39PitCrew View Post
    Just curious, assume you had brake ducts for both of those configurations.
    We have had trouble getting good ducting set up on #39. I think Pranav has
    one of the better duct setups for the 4th gens. I know at Hallett good
    air flow across the rotors really makes a difference for heat dissipation and
    in late race brake modulation, which I would bet is brake fluid temp related
    as much as pad/rotor temp.
    Thoughts?
    I had the same ducts on both setups. I did run a Carbotech pad on the Cobra setup and PFC01's and Raybestos 47's on the Stoptechs but I wouldn't expect that to change much.
    Marshall Mosty
    AI/SI Texas Regional Director
    2011 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
    AI #67 "Mosty Brothers' Racing" (RIP)
    ST6 #21 Toyota Corolla (being revived)...

  10. #10
    Senior Member Grass-Passer
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    I also used to burn through a set of rotors every 2 weekends when I had stock cobra rotors. Now I have cobra calipers but I upgraded to Craig's old set of 2 piece rotors when he went to AI, 1 set of rings has made it all season (had 2-3 on them when I bought them) and pad wear seems reduced. I have ducts (but not good ones). The pimpy 2 piece rotors do make a difference.
    Daniel Records
    CMC # 34

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