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Thread: Coleman Brakes

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    Senior Member Rookie 64GunPilot's Avatar
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    Coleman Brakes

    Is anyone here familiar with Coleman 2pc rotors and calipers? I never heard of them until i bought my car and this is what is installed. The rotors are 12.2” with wilwood hats. Just curious as to their longevity/durability. Folks here saying stoptech rotors last 4-5 seasons. Anyone have experience with Coleman brake components and how they compare to stoptech?

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    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 64GunPilot View Post
    Is anyone here familiar with Coleman 2pc rotors and calipers? I never heard of them until i bought my car and this is what is installed. The rotors are 12.2” with wilwood hats. Just curious as to their longevity/durability. Folks here saying stoptech rotors last 4-5 seasons. Anyone have experience with Coleman brake components and how they compare to stoptech?
    If I'm not mistaken Coleman sells several different rotors of different quality. When I had a Wilwood big brake set-up on my Lightning doing DE's (yeah I know stupid) I would go through a set of these rotors every other event. Of course the Lightning weighs over 5000lbs. I was getting them through Todd at TCE Performance.

    JJ

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    Senior Member Rookie 64GunPilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShadowBolt View Post
    If I'm not mistaken Coleman sells several different rotors of different quality. When I had a Wilwood big brake set-up on my Lightning doing DE's (yeah I know stupid) I would go through a set of these rotors every other event. Of course the Lightning weighs over 5000lbs. I was getting them through Todd at TCE Performance.

    JJ
    Yea, I think the replacement rotors are only $85 per side. Hard to imagine they would be anywhere as durable as the higher cost items. Now my question is, how do you know when your rotors need replacing? What do they look like? Can someone post pictures of race scortched unserviceable rotors?

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    Senior Member Rookie 39PitCrew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 64GunPilot View Post
    Yea, I think the replacement rotors are only $85 per side. Hard to imagine they would be anywhere as durable as the higher cost items. Now my question is, how do you know when your rotors need replacing? What do they look like? Can someone post pictures of race scortched unserviceable rotors?
    On #39 we usually knew it was time to replace due to the the loud "PLINK"
    and the visible crack on the rotor face. But David just uses the stock
    O'really parts.
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    Senior Member Rookie 64GunPilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 39PitCrew View Post
    On #39 we usually knew it was time to replace due to the the loud "PLINK"
    and the visible crack on the rotor face. But David just uses the stock
    O'really parts.
    Talking to Mike Plum (the previous owner) he said the rotors last about 1 season. Thats $175 per season for rotors. Economics seems good I think. Maybe not as good as $440 stoptech rotors that last 4 seasons. But still, good economics I think.

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    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    The whole thing on rotors, if the hardware allows axial float, that's the way you go.

    Wilwood rotors and entry level coleman rotors do not, which make them just as good as a regular one piece rotor in that they will crack fairly quickly because the rotor rings aren't being allowed to move when they change shape from high heat under braking.

    This is why we love our 2 piece $$$ stoptechs; the rings last forever because they aren't stressed from being tied to a rotor hat that doesnt change shape. The stoptech kits cost a lot since they also come with $$$ calipers, but for Mustangs as we see with Records, you can get girodisc two piece true floating rotors that go with stock Ford calipers.

    For GM i believe a stoptech/girodisc c5 floating rotor with stock c5 calipers would be a good option $ wise.

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    Senior Member Rookie 64GunPilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pranav View Post
    The whole thing on rotors, if the hardware allows axial float, that's the way you go.

    Wilwood rotors and entry level coleman rotors do not, which make them just as good as a regular one piece rotor in that they will crack fairly quickly because the rotor rings aren't being allowed to move when they change shape from high heat under braking.

    This is why we love our 2 piece $$$ stoptechs; the rings last forever because they aren't stressed from being tied to a rotor hat that doesnt change shape. The stoptech kits cost a lot since they also come with $$$ calipers, but for Mustangs as we see with Records, you can get girodisc two piece true floating rotors that go with stock Ford calipers.

    For GM i believe a stoptech/girodisc c5 floating rotor with stock c5 calipers would be a good option $ wise.

    Thanks for the insight. I am asking a lot of questions now that will likely be answered with time around you guys at the track during the HPDE days next year. But appreciate the insight now. Ill put stoptechs in the 2021 budget lol.

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    Senior Member Carroll Shelby RichardP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pranav View Post
    The whole thing on rotors, if the hardware allows axial float, that's the way you go.

    Wilwood rotors and entry level coleman rotors do not, which make them just as good as a regular one piece rotor in that they will crack fairly quickly because the rotor rings aren't being allowed to move when they change shape from high heat under braking.

    This is why we love our 2 piece $$$ stoptechs; the rings last forever because they aren't stressed from being tied to a rotor hat that doesnt change shape. The stoptech kits cost a lot since they also come with $$$ calipers, but for Mustangs as we see with Records, you can get girodisc two piece true floating rotors that go with stock Ford calipers.

    For GM i believe a stoptech/girodisc c5 floating rotor with stock c5 calipers would be a good option $ wise.
    Coleman has a bunch of rotor castings that can be machined to whatever is needed, including fixed rotor or floating rotor. I used their DV-30 rotors to create 12” diameter rotors that worked with PBR calipers to fit inside the stock 16”, 4-lug wheels on my Fox. This was a long time ago before there were so many brake options available and the Coleman setup worked great back then.
    http://www.colemanracing.com/Brake-R...ane-P3549.aspx

    Coleman does have some standard brake rotor part numbers but those are just their regular castings machined to mate to common brake hat dimensions. Within given rotor dimensions, Coleman has lighter and heavier versions to choose from. Heavier is going to be more durable. Lighter is going to be higher performance until you stress them enough that they start to have issues.

    As far as floating vs. fixed, I believe this has more to do with the type of caliper you run. If you have a floating caliper, you can get away better with a fixed rotor without experiencing pad knock back. A fixed caliper is going to need some amount of float in the rotor not to drive you crazy with a soft pedal. Floating rotors also help keep rotor coning down which results in a better pedal feel.

    I believe rotor cracking has way more to do with material quality, heat treating, and just being oversized for the application more than it does with fixed or floating. Coleman offers stress relieving of their rotors as an option before they are machined to final shape. That wasn’t an option when I bought mine way back when so I don’t know how much it helps.

    Rotor life is also affected by track layout, driving style, pad selection, tire grip, car weight, etc.

    Richard P.

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    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Quote Originally Posted by RichardP View Post
    Coleman has a bunch of rotor castings that can be machined to whatever is needed, including fixed rotor or floating rotor. I used their DV-30 rotors to create 12” diameter rotors that worked with PBR calipers to fit inside the stock 16”, 4-lug wheels on my Fox. This was a long time ago before there were so many brake options available and the Coleman setup worked great back then.
    http://www.colemanracing.com/Brake-R...ane-P3549.aspx

    Coleman does have some standard brake rotor part numbers but those are just their regular castings machined to mate to common brake hat dimensions. Within given rotor dimensions, Coleman has lighter and heavier versions to choose from. Heavier is going to be more durable. Lighter is going to be higher performance until you stress them enough that they start to have issues.

    As far as floating vs. fixed, I believe this has more to do with the type of caliper you run. If you have a floating caliper, you can get away better with a fixed rotor without experiencing pad knock back. A fixed caliper is going to need some amount of float in the rotor not to drive you crazy with a soft pedal. Floating rotors also help keep rotor coning down which results in a better pedal feel.

    I believe rotor cracking has way more to do with material quality, heat treating, and just being oversized for the application more than it does with fixed or floating. Coleman offers stress relieving of their rotors as an option before they are machined to final shape. That wasn’t an option when I bought mine way back when so I don’t know how much it helps.

    Rotor life is also affected by track layout, driving style, pad selection, tire grip, car weight, etc.

    Richard P.
    Interesting; I asked them how much it would cost to make a set of true floaters for the camaro rear; it was a lot

  10. #10
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Quote Originally Posted by 64GunPilot View Post
    Thanks for the insight. I am asking a lot of questions now that will likely be answered with time around you guys at the track during the HPDE days next year. But appreciate the insight now. Ill put stoptechs in the 2021 budget lol.
    Always good to ask questions; I annoyed the sh** out of everyone for the better part of a year building my car.

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