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Thread: Engine Block Cracked

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  1. #1
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    This is in Waco. I'd just grab it and throw your TPI/accy's on it and see what happens, can't be worse than a cracked block and I bet you can get it much less than asking price. At least then you're on track and getting some practice in.

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  2. #2
    Senior Member Rookie 64GunPilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gerno View Post
    This is in Waco. I'd just grab it and throw your TPI/accy's on it and see what happens, can't be worse than a cracked block and I bet you can get it much less than asking price. At least then you're on track and getting some practice in.

    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...75025250081624
    Yea, Sean has a good 305 as well I’ve considered buying. This engine I have runs amazing and was super reliable. Just had a water jacket freeze damage. Ran it for a whole season with JBWeld gooped over the cracks with almost zero preparation (trackside repair). If I can just seal up this block I feel she’ll last for a good long time.
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  3. #3
    Member Rookie fscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 64GunPilot View Post
    Has anyone ever tried brazing? I am thinking to open up the cracks with a dremel, and then braze with Muggyweld SSF-6 brazing rods specifically for cast iron using a torch. Maybe I can preheat the assembled engine from the side using a propane IR heater so there wouldnt be any shock heating/cooling.
    I've TIG welded cast iron once, using specialty rods. I got away without preheating. The trick there was to put down some weld, and then immediately grab a hammer and punch and start beating on the weld bead as it cools. Then repeat as needed until done.

    When you weld cast iron, the weld shrinks enough to pull away from the base metal, which is why you normally preheat the entire workpiece. But by peening the metal as it cools, you're forcing it into the gap that's trying to open.

    I agree with others, a new block is probably better. But I thought you might want to know this trick in case it ever comes up.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Rookie 64GunPilot's Avatar
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    LM7 5.3 Engine, intake manifold, throttle body, injectors, exhaust manifolds, and T56 transmission all bought and paid for. Still needing a lot of other stuff, the $$$ is starting to add up and Im starting to think maybe I would have been better to just do a new 305 shortblock. I enjoyed being slow with the 305 TPI, at least I had an excuse. But after an LS swap I wont have any excuses. I'll just be slow and broke LOL.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    Still gotta do the oil pan, accessories, cheater short 5th, and electronics. It's all on my white board and it makes me throw up in my mouth. After Hallett I seriously question if it's worth it.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Rookie 64GunPilot's Avatar
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    There was a lot of information in this thread. I appreciate all the help from everyone. Declaring LT1 / T56 swap complete. Today I got the car dyno'd. It runs and sounds good. Gonna register with Chin for a trackday at MSR-H next weekend (Dec 17th) for my own test n tune, and a little practice there before next season opener.

    I ended up taking 30 days of leave and have spent hundreds of hours working on this thing. 12-16hrs a day sometimes. It was WAY more work and way more odds 'n' ends that eat at the overall budget of the conversion than I ever thought about. I got it done realistically for about $2500. Some may balk at the LT route I went instead of LS, but I think the LT was cheaper overall and it kinda fell into my hands cheaply and easily.

    Again thanks for the advice from everyone. Special thanks to Dustin for lots of back and forth LT1 questions, and Morgan for giving me some free aluminum LT1 heads. I hope if nothing else to add to the car count next year.

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    Last edited by 64GunPilot; 12-10-2022 at 02:32 AM.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member Rookie 64GunPilot's Avatar
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    LT1 swap is coming along. Dont think I'll make Cresson. Shooting for ECR in December.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Rookie 64GunPilot's Avatar
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    I have heard the T5 doesnt handle LS too well. Im sure I'll end up with a T56. Its the easy button. I saw an LT1/T56 combo on for $3500. Was thinking about it. But I already have this 5.3.

    If anyone sees or knows of a reasonable T56 forsale please let me know!!
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 64GunPilot View Post
    I have heard the T5 doesnt handle LS too well. Im sure I'll end up with a T56. Its the easy button. I saw an LT1/T56 combo on for $3500. Was thinking about it. But I already have this 5.3.

    If anyone sees or knows of a reasonable T56 forsale please let me know!!
    You can buy the whole damn LT1/T56 car for less than that if you're patient.
    RM CMC Director

  10. #10
    Senior Member Rookie 64GunPilot's Avatar
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    Finally got time to square away the shop and organize. Put the my 1995 donor LT1 car on the lift and started tearing into it.............IRON HEADS!!!! My bad I didnt think to check that the LT1 in a Z28 Camaro had Aluminum heads.....DOH. WTF. Anyways. I dont think the rules will allow me to run it like that since it wasnt ever a factory setup in a camaro. Thoughts?
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