Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 22

Thread: need transmission help

  1. #11
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Georgetown, TEXAS
    Posts
    4,268
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by BADVENM View Post
    We're running a non world class T5. I think we changed the synchronizers one or twice in 10 years when we had some clunkiness going into 3rd. Are all Texas region races standing starts? Are you power shifting? What shifter are you using? Is it one with adjustable stops and is it set up properly?
    Only two of the four races (when we get four races) are standing starts. We have never powershifted. The shifter is the one that comes with the transmission. I adjusted it when I first bought the transmission and have not messed with it since. I ask Joe if he could tell what caused the unit to take a shit and he said he could not tell. I assume if it was the shifter not adjusted properly he would have been able to see it.

    JJ

  2. #12
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Georgetown, TEXAS
    Posts
    4,268
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Alien View Post
    I really have no intellegent Ford input, but what engine and trans mounts are you running? Solid, poly, or rubber? My engine ones are still rubber (I think... either way def not solid) and T5 trans is poly. Thought is the softer mounts absorb some of the shock better than solid.
    I ran rubber engine mounts for nine years and just switched to the solid this year. The transmission mount is a Stifflers https://lmr.com/item/STF-TCBM20/must...ssmember-99-04.

    JJ

  3. #13
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Georgetown, TEXAS
    Posts
    4,268
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Suck fumes View Post
    In my opinion the 3650 is the most reliable easy to quick shift transmission i have ever used in any mustang pre 2014. I spent about $900 on new parts to rebuild it when I first built the car just as preventative maint but there was technically nothing wrong with it even though it had 110k mi on the car. Making sure the clutch is adjusted right it also critical. Need to make sure when clutch pedal is all the way down that it doesn’t try to lurch when putting into gear at a stand still.

    Also i have always used the steeda triax shifter cause it has overshift stops that are adjustable.
    I'm leaning on going with the 3650 but I have always been told that with long tubes I would have to pull the engine to change the clutch! That means if you lose a clutch at the track (like at Hallett) you are screwed. Now we have never had a clutch issue. In ten years I have changed the clutch disk only once (just for shits and giggles) and I'm still running the same pressure plate that I installed with the first A5. We are not hard on clutches but tear up transmissions. Maybe it would be worth it to go to shortys and the 3650.


    JJ

  4. #14
    Senior Member Grass-Passer Suck fumes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Austin, Tx
    Posts
    911
    if your crafty you can just undo one header and get the gearbox out without yanking motor. But I’ve never had to deal with it cause the 3650/clutch never give me problems. I have urethane mounts. If you go 3650 make sure you run Royal Purple ATF and dont fill it till it runs out the fill hole. I usually have a half a pinky room when putting finger in fill hole to feel where fluid is. There is an actual fill spec on google somewhere. Don’t run redline or any of the manual synchromesh garbage.
    Last edited by Suck fumes; 09-10-2020 at 12:08 PM.
    “A man with no enemies is a man with no character.”
    ― Paul Newman

  5. #15
    I have had good luck with my used 3650 in my S197 track car.

    The 3550/TKO in the CMC car shifts terrible compared to a T5. The mechanism in the 3550/TKO is complete junk. They use massive shift lugs with a very sloppy mechanism. I guess a plus side is that it probably won't wear out since their all iron. A common mod is to blue print these parts to tighten them up. Definitely setup for drag racers bang shifting the thing, which was a point of failure in drag race application T5s.

    The 3rd gear on the front of the output shaft is what always breaks in the T5 and TKO boxes (for me at least). I think as the box heats up and and becomes longer. The shafts can move and bend more reducing tooth engagement. Enough cycles like that and it'll pop some teeth off. Real race application transmissions have a little dog-bone thing that joins the two shafts together so they can't spread as easily. I did split an output shaft in a T5Z at hallett three years ago and it ended up splitting the entire case.

    Jerry, is your drive shaft in good shape? Vibration through the output shaft of the trans could cause issues. The output shaft is also very long, making it more susceptible to vibrations from 'low speed' things like the drive shaft.

    - Josh
    CMC #50

  6. #16
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Arlington, TX
    Posts
    1,017
    Jerry, have you checked your bellhousing to crankshaft alignment? If all of your problems revolve around the input shaft maybe the issue is there
    Tyler Gardner
    CMC #13 2015-2017
    SM #013 2018
    www.dfwmustangs.net

  7. #17
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Georgetown, TEXAS
    Posts
    4,268
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by mach1 View Post
    Jerry, have you checked your bellhousing to crankshaft alignment? If all of your problems revolve around the input shaft maybe the issue is there
    I had a machine shop make me some offset dowels so I could dial in the alignment. That is not the issue but I assumed it was when I lost the first transmission after starting to use the Quick-Time bellhousing.

    JJ

  8. #18
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts
    1,149
    Quote Originally Posted by BADVENM View Post
    We're running a non world class T5. I think we changed the synchronizers one or twice in 10 years when we had some clunkiness going into 3rd. Are all Texas region races standing starts? Are you power shifting? What shifter are you using? Is it one with adjustable stops and is it set up properly?
    To be fair, we're down about 30whp from the TX guys here and don't get as much heat as they do. That may play a role as well. I'd be curious what the other regions' Ford guys are seeing for transmission failures.
    RM CMC Director

  9. #19
    11 YEARS (full region race schedule) no problems, including 5 or 6 National championship weekends and in some cases 4 day events (test and tune, 45 minute races, etc). ShadowBolt isnt lasting a season, two at best. Surely our altitude isnt making that much of a difference.
    Last edited by BADVENM; 09-11-2020 at 06:58 PM.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts
    1,149
    Quote Originally Posted by BADVENM View Post
    11 YEARS (full region race schedule) no problems, including 5 or 6 National championship weekends and in some cases 4 day events (test and tune, 45 minute races, etc). ShadowBolt isnt lasting a season, two at best. Surely our altitude isnt making that much of a difference.
    Who knows?
    RM CMC Director

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •