Stoptech Rotor Question

[Supercharged111]

I've finally taken the plunge on cheater brakes in search of more consistency. When I had the rotors tightish the hats had a little play, but since I've loctited them and torqued them down that's no longer the case. Does the play come back with some use? My hardware didn't include the wave washers, so I'm thinking it should be the race version.

[ShadowBolt]

I've finally taken the plunge on cheater brakes in search of more consistency. When I had the rotors tightish the hats had a little play, but since I've loctited them and torqued them down that's no longer the case. Does the play come back with some use? My hardware didn't include the wave washers, so I'm thinking it should be the race version.

I just replaced the rings and had the same issue. I measured everything and they should still move but they do not. I had new bolts but used old flat washers and I assumed the old washers may have no longer been flat. Stoptech did change the design of the rings (no more counterbore) but the hats should still move a little. Mine did not. I have not looked at them since ECR last weekend but I will soon.

Jerry

[t500hps]

I cannot answer the question but make sure you follow the mounting instructions. A couple years ago I watched a Honda S2000 right in front of me fly off a hard braking corner at 135 mph. I later asked one of his competitors (that I knew) what happened. He told me the guy had just installed new rotor rings and simply tightened the bolts up without paying attention to the torque requirements or the lock-tight usage. The guy hit the brakes and although the rotors stopped.......the bolts broke and were no longer connected to the hats!

[ShadowBolt]

Lock-Tight and a torque wrench was used. I took mine apart three times and nothing changed.

[michaelmosty]

Dustin, like Jerry, I just put on new rotor rings and ran them for the 1st time this last weekend. The kit I bought came with the race hardware with the flat washers. When I put everything together initially the ring was solid to the hat and would not move at all. We took measurements and found out all tolerances were exact so we noticed the hat had just a slight bit of buildup near the holes so we took an air sanding disc and removed the buildup with a quick zap that probably removed .001-.002 of dirt and when I put them back together it gave the tiny jingle I was expecting to hear.

The new rings worked perfectly with not one instance of knock-back all weekend.

You definitely need to follow the bed-in procedures. I had totally forgotten how terrible the brakes were for the first couple of laps until the pad compound can be deposited onto the rings.

[Supercharged111]

Rotor #2 I did by the book. Not 1 hour later it had movement, so I dissected rotor #1. I let the loctited wick in too long and it had dried so I zapped it with the 1/4" impact the first time. Some of the pins had made tiny divots in the hat itself. I disassembled and cleaned the hardware and reassembled like the second rotor. Any pins that didn't move I was able to tap on them to rotate them and get them to move. It seemed that holding the pin against the hat with one hand while spinning the torque wrench with the other was the ticket. I'm going to do a practice day before race weekend to validate the new setup prior to leaning on it competitively. Hopefully all goes well.

[64GunPilot]

Wow. Stoptech is spensive. My Coleman rotors are $88 each. DTC60 pads $225. You get what you pay for most of the time so my stuff probably isn’t as good but it’s slows me down enough I guess.

[t500hps]

Wow. Stoptech is spensive. My Coleman rotors are $88 each. DTC60 pads $225. You get what you pay for most of the time so my stuff probably isn’t as good but it’s slows me down enough I guess.

I ran PBRs and white box rotors for several years. I do not think I stop any better with Stoptechs. I do use a much less aggressive pad now and I get a year plus out of the rotors. (With PBRs the pads and rotors were trash after every weekend).