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Thread: Stoptech Rotor Question

  1. #1
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    Stoptech Rotor Question

    I've finally taken the plunge on cheater brakes in search of more consistency. When I had the rotors tightish the hats had a little play, but since I've loctited them and torqued them down that's no longer the case. Does the play come back with some use? My hardware didn't include the wave washers, so I'm thinking it should be the race version.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supercharged111 View Post
    I've finally taken the plunge on cheater brakes in search of more consistency. When I had the rotors tightish the hats had a little play, but since I've loctited them and torqued them down that's no longer the case. Does the play come back with some use? My hardware didn't include the wave washers, so I'm thinking it should be the race version.
    I just replaced the rings and had the same issue. I measured everything and they should still move but they do not. I had new bolts but used old flat washers and I assumed the old washers may have no longer been flat. Stoptech did change the design of the rings (no more counterbore) but the hats should still move a little. Mine did not. I have not looked at them since ECR last weekend but I will soon.

    Jerry

  3. #3
    I cannot answer the question but make sure you follow the mounting instructions. A couple years ago I watched a Honda S2000 right in front of me fly off a hard braking corner at 135 mph. I later asked one of his competitors (that I knew) what happened. He told me the guy had just installed new rotor rings and simply tightened the bolts up without paying attention to the torque requirements or the lock-tight usage. The guy hit the brakes and although the rotors stopped.......the bolts broke and were no longer connected to the hats!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
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    Lock-Tight and a torque wrench was used. I took mine apart three times and nothing changed.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Site AdminCarroll Shelby michaelmosty's Avatar
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    Dustin, like Jerry, I just put on new rotor rings and ran them for the 1st time this last weekend. The kit I bought came with the race hardware with the flat washers. When I put everything together initially the ring was solid to the hat and would not move at all. We took measurements and found out all tolerances were exact so we noticed the hat had just a slight bit of buildup near the holes so we took an air sanding disc and removed the buildup with a quick zap that probably removed .001-.002 of dirt and when I put them back together it gave the tiny jingle I was expecting to hear.

    The new rings worked perfectly with not one instance of knock-back all weekend.

    You definitely need to follow the bed-in procedures. I had totally forgotten how terrible the brakes were for the first couple of laps until the pad compound can be deposited onto the rings.
    -Michael Mosty
    CMC #11 Mosty Brothers' Racing
    Director - TX Region

  6. #6
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    Rotor #2 I did by the book. Not 1 hour later it had movement, so I dissected rotor #1. I let the loctited wick in too long and it had dried so I zapped it with the 1/4" impact the first time. Some of the pins had made tiny divots in the hat itself. I disassembled and cleaned the hardware and reassembled like the second rotor. Any pins that didn't move I was able to tap on them to rotate them and get them to move. It seemed that holding the pin against the hat with one hand while spinning the torque wrench with the other was the ticket. I'm going to do a practice day before race weekend to validate the new setup prior to leaning on it competitively. Hopefully all goes well.
    Last edited by Supercharged111; 04-13-2021 at 06:07 PM.
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    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
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    On Friday I went out in the first session of practice and put a transfer layer on the new rings. Only two laps using the Stoptech written method for bedding in new pads or rings. I used the last half of the second lap to let everything cool down without touching the brakes. I did the same driving to my pit area. I turn off the engine and coast into the pit and let the clutch out (in gear) to stop the car so that the pads are not touching the rings. An hour and a half later in the second session the breaks worked great. Like Michael the brakes were not good the first time out on new rings. Stoptech says if you can to break in new pads with old rings and new rings with old pads. At $550.00 for two new rings I want to do it as per their instructions.

    JJ

  8. #8
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    I have old Hawk DTC70, but don't think that's conducive to getting Raybestos ST45 bedded in. I'm starting from scratch. I remember Dan bedding some new pads at Hallett before, they were rolling smoke and stunk to high heaven! I've not experienced it to that degree, but again that's what Friday's for. I'll take it easy my first session and expect it to suck.
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    Senior Member Carroll Shelby RichardP's Avatar
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    There are lots of different formulations of brake pads and they do different things when they are bedded in. The R4's that we used to run would boil off binders when they got hot for the first time. This gas gets forced out between the pad and the rotor and you have no brakes while this is happening so you need to be ready for that. After that, the brakes work fine.

    Some pads work by depositing a layer of material on the rotor, some don't. Some different pad compounds are compatible with other compounds, some are very much not. I bought my Stoptech kit used and my pads were incompatible with what the previous owner had used. After a bit of use, I picked up a nasty vibration that bounced the steering wheel out of my hands and made the car undrivable. I do not recommend bedding in with a different compound than you are planning on running.

    Richard P.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by ShadowBolt View Post
    On Friday I went out in the first session of practice and put a transfer layer on the new rings. Only two laps using the Stoptech written method for bedding in new pads or rings. I used the last half of the second lap to let everything cool down without touching the brakes. I did the same driving to my pit area. I turn off the engine and coast into the pit and let the clutch out (in gear) to stop the car so that the pads are not touching the rings. An hour and a half later in the second session the breaks worked great. Like Michael the brakes were not good the first time out on new rings. Stoptech says if you can to break in new pads with old rings and new rings with old pads. At $550.00 for two new rings I want to do it as per their instructions.

    JJ
    Please tell me where you are getting 2 rings for $550????

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