Quote Originally Posted by mitchntx
You have 12V at the starter? How about at the solenoid when the key is turned to start?

Nick is correct ... VATS would prevent it from starting, not engaging the starter.

If the relay is clicking, run a jumper wire from the relay output straight to the starter.

If it engages the starter, it's gotta be in the wiring loom.


Quote Originally Posted by GlennCMC70
Quote Originally Posted by Casey_SS
One more thought - back to basics. The only things I changed on the car are as follows:
Battery moved to trunk
2ga wire from + battery to master disconnect
2ga wire from - battery to rear frame rail
2ga wire from disconnect to bulkhead to stock + battery cable going to starter
Stock - battery cable goes to stock ground point near junction box (grounds engine to body)
Alternator & junction box wires originally on stock + battery cable go to bulkhead
16ga wire interrupts + wire on ign. coil via disconnect
Removed door / cross body section of harness
Pulled HVAC, Airbag, wiper/wash, radio accy , courtesy, defog, windows, & radio fuses

That's all that changed from "known good"....anything suspicious here?

BTW - Glenn - there's a relay under the dash with a big purple wire going to it that DOES click when I turn the key to start. Not sure why it's not showing power downstream...no visible problems in the path.
OK, no power downstream (out of the relay). How about power into the relay (upstream)? Not power that makes the relay close, but power that the relay is switching open/closed.
Do you have my posts blocked or do you just like seeing your name in print?