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Thread: Performance Friction Brake Systems - AI/CMC2

  1. #21
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Ginsberg
    To answer Jerry's questions about rotor life - I ran the TCE hats w/Coleman 12"x1.125" rotors. Unfortunately, I only got one season out of the rotors using (IIRC) Cobalt pads. The rotors cracked right at the end of the season, and it was very disappointing, given they cost $300 for the pair. Although I have no hard data to back it up, I suspect part of the reason for the for the premature failure was the dimensions - 1.125" thickness. With stock Cobra/PBR calipers, you can't use a thicker rotor due to pad (and caliper) dimensions.

    I think I had about ~$700 into the set (hats @$250, mounting hardware @$80, rotors @$300) with the goal of increased longevity - and that didn't happen.

    Jerry - if you are breaking rotors (at the hat/hub area), inspect (possibly replace) your hubs, as well as your spindles. I've been fortunate to have never broken a rotor while racing, but I am aware of several Ford drivers who've broken rotors at the track, but that appeared to be focused on the Brembo rotors with the fixed Brembo 2000 Cobra R calipers.

    I have, however, cracked every set of rotors on my car, sometimes, all the way through, but radially, not at the hub/hat area. The cut down Cobra units would only last one season, the CV units would last ~1.5 - 2 seasons. Pads would only last 2 events. And this is with good brake ducts. The calipers that I'm removing from my car have been on there since 2006 (I think), and are in damn fine shape, boots not withstanding. Don't ask me how they've managed to survive so long.

    FWIW - I researched CMC2 legal brake kits, even purchased a set of Wilwood calipers and hats to build my own kit as I didn't want to spend ~$2000 on a kit. The primary reason I bought the StopTech kit had everything to do with Ryan Kim, and his willingness to work with our group, make necessary changes, and produce a quality kit that meets the needs of our drivers.

    Ask Al how vehmently I fought the 4-piston brake rule (and continue to remind him my feelings about it), but as previously mentioned, the cat is out of the bag. So, I put a set on my car with the goal of increased longevity for pads and rotors. We'll see how that works out.

    Thanks Adam,

    If I could get a full season out of a two piece rotor I would go for it. I just ordered two ECB rotors at $60.00 each and I have to replace them every other event. So the $300.00 for the Coleman rings is about the same and I don't have to deal with it three times a year.


    JJ

  2. #22
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby marshall_mosty's Avatar
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    Back in 2006 when my AI car more resembled a current day CMC-2 car, I was cracking "Powerslot" rotors every 2-3 weekends. This was without ABS on a 2900 lb car. I was using Cobalt VR+ pads (no longer available, but one hell of a pad, bite wise).

    My cracks were not related to the slotting, as they didn't start at, nor propogate to one of the machined slots. They were all radial in nature, starting at about 50% from the root of the rotor face. All were "post race", as I heard a "ping" in the pits or waiting in tech.

    Also, pads were only lasting 3 track days. At $185/set, that was getting damn expensive.

    My StopTechs will get almost a season out of one set of pads ($285/set) and the rotors have approx 15 hours of track time between the season Jeff Brooks put on the kit, the two enduro's I've run, and the other seasonal racing I've done in the last 3 years... They still are fine, no hint of cracking.

    My idea on the kit was to get a brake setup that I didn't have to worry about and replace rotors and pads as frequently. Also, the safety aspect was paramount. Another plus was the ability to modulate the brakes. If the stock Cobra PBR calipers had three "clicks" of modulation ability, the StopTech's have ten. Much easier to work with "on the edge". With ABS that goes out the window, but I've had ABS issues in the past where I've had to drive it without the "crutch".

    My thoughts is it's well worth the money if it's in your reach, however is not necessary to run a 10/10th's lap. It just makes running 9.8/10th's of a lap every time a bit easier to "mentally" deal with.

    YMMV
    Marshall Mosty
    AI/SI Texas Regional Director
    2011 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
    AI #67 "Mosty Brothers' Racing" (RIP)
    ST6 #21 Toyota Corolla (being revived)...

  3. #23
    Senior Member Site AdminCarroll Shelby michaelmosty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlennCMC70
    I'm not sure why a 3100lb Mustang has caliper spread issues.
    I'm stil on my junk yard $50 calipers (for both, not each). They have never been rebuilt, not even before I put them on in 2004. I just installed them on my new car - didn't rebuild them.
    I don't run cooling ducts either.
    I'll just add that to the list of advantages the Camaro has over the Mustang. :wink: :P
    -Michael Mosty
    CMC #11 Mosty Brothers' Racing
    Director - TX Region

  4. #24
    Senior Member Grass-Passer edrock96GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Fernandez
    I havent talked to a single driver that has upgraded their brakes who believes it has improved their lap times.
    I dunno, although my car still has a ways to go, I'm sure it wouldn't be half as good as it is without the Brembos on the front.

    I have also had them on the car since 2003 and last replaced rotors in 2005. The current rotors have 2 seasons of racing on them and the pads lasted through both seasons minus ECR (replaced them just prior).

    The initial cost is a bit more, but the durability, reliability and performance is well worth it IMO, although I would say that they would probably be better marketed toward AI drivers who are sometimes more willing (and are almost obligated) to spend a little more to be competitive.
    Eddie Rock

    #21 AI '96 GT

  5. #25
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby GlennCMC70's Avatar
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    Also, if you have cooling ducts, make sure they are blowing on nothing but the center of the rotor. If they blow on the inner face it will cause uneven cooling and crack the rotors.

  6. #26
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Adam Ginsberg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
    Michael is correct. The three I broke did not break in the hub area or out on the track but during cooldown. Two rotors broke running Carbotech pads and this last one PFC01's (remember this was at ECR).
    Ah, so you've done basically the same thing many other drivers have - cracked a rotor radially. While the life span (or lack thereof) in your case is considerably worse than others (myself included), it's not uncommon.

    I used to run Cobalt VR's, then switched to Carbotech XP10's. The rotors will heat check within a weekend, but they have managed to survive until the end of the season (or longer). The set I just pulled off my car (Crown Vic 12") were installed at the start of 2010 (replaced, free of charge, from AutoZone ), and made it through a total of 4 events - Feb SPIR, June SPIR, Sept MMP/Nats, and Nov BW. SPIR is not a brake friendly track, and neither is MMP, but those rotors could easily have gone another 4 or so events.

  7. #27
    The 12.2" roundy round rotors on my 3350lb 4th gen have been there for two full seasons. I would continue to use them if I were running it next weekend. The car does have ducts from close to the center of the nose to the center of the rotor. I try to give them a good cool down lap and I run carbotech pads.
    Al Fernandez

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