How to regrease SN95 hubs.

[marshall_mosty]

Scott,
I see no problem reusing the ford spindle nut. I've never had it back off. Use a breaker bar and body weight to achieve 250 ft-lbs of torque.

Brian,
On the hub, I'm not sure what the OEM knurl size is for the S197 platform, but the ARP 7703 studs have a 0.625" knurl. The 39/64 is 0.609, with provides a perfect press fit. I'd hammer out an existing stud and measure the knurl on the OEM studs. If it's equal or less than 0.625", go with the 7703's from ARP. Stay away from Moroso, too many disaster stories.

[BlueFirePony]

Thanks Marshall. The Ford Racing hubs are basically the OEM with ARP studs so it might just be cost effective to go that route...S197 price points are still damn high

[MHISSTC]

Good Info.

Thanks all.

[MHISSTC]

Since I'm the guinea pig of our team, I disassembled and cleaned my first hub and I think it might be FUBAR'd for a couple of reasons.

The hubs I am trying this on are used OEM Ford units of unknown mileage that came on the set of used '94-'95 GT spindles we purchased.

First potential issue: The back cover was super easy to remove with the special CMC Parts tool. As I was wiping a little bit of the grease out before popping the bearing and seal out, I noticed a very small piece of fibrous stuff. I think it is a small piece of the inner lip of one of the plastic races that was missing and had gotten all smashed up with the bearings. There is a small piece of this thin inner lip missing on each of the races and each one is also cracked and detached from the rest of the race for about 1/3 of the circumference around each race. I'm not sure this thin lip is doing anything, but I'm not sure I want to go ahead and reuse it either. I'm wondering if I should trim the rest of the somewhat detached portion off and go ahead and use it, or if should I give up now and get a set of new hubs to re-grease?

Second potential issue: The seal required a little more effort than it should have to remove, probably because it is a used hub, and I also made the mistake of prying up from underneath the seal instead of from underneath the bearing race. I ended up putting a bit of a wave in the seal. I am not confident I can straighten it out. Again, should I give up now and get a set of new hubs, or should I expend the effort to try to flatten the seal and reuse it?

I'm going to make my teammate Dave do the second one with whatever small amount of guidance I can give him after doing the first one. I guess if he has any issues with the second hub, we'll be buying a new pair anyway.

The next thing we'll practice is drilling the hubs out for the ARP studs.

[Wade]

The tiny piece on the innner portion of the plastic bearing retainer is only there told hold the entire assembly together in the box during shipping and installation. Basically an assembly line type of product where the can cram it all together and get it to stick. You can carefully pull that tiny peice out and discard it. The rear seal is just a dust seal. You should be able to easily pound it back flat and reuse it. Don't give up. It took me a couple of hours to do the first one, but now I can disassemble, clean and repack in about 20 minutes. The drilling is also no big deal as you are only enlarging the hole from .595 to .609 so just go slow and it will be fine. Good Luck!

[MHISSTC]

The bearing retainer was trimmed, the dust seal was flattened and all was assembled.

I managed to break the drill bit when drilling the second hub as I got hung up on the ABS ring. We got another bit, went slower with less pressure, and it worked much better.

The proof will come this weekend when we get it on the track.

[centerville]

Sorry to dredge up an old post but it's a good one. Marshall any chance you still have the pics you took for this. Thanks