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Thread: NOLA 2013 media

  1. #31
    Senior Member Site AdminCarroll Shelby michaelmosty's Avatar
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    I run AmsOil 15/50 and my first motor lasted 5 1/2 years racing at every event. The only reason it blew was b/c of the $80 Summit balancer. Everything still looked perfect with the cylinder walls / pistons. My oil temp is usually 240 in the cool weather and gets to around 300 in the summer months. I change the oil every 3 events.
    -Michael Mosty
    CMC #11 Mosty Brothers' Racing
    Director - TX Region

  2. #32
    Junior Member Rookie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dulaney View Post
    No clue what caused the fluctuating oil pressure. The water temps never seemed to rise, which I find odd.
    My car was doing this as well.

    During race 2, I had an off track excursion in 7. I watched the water temps after that and it never climbed higher than 190 so I figured I was safe. During the last lap, water temp pegged. Once back in the pits, I cleaned the grass off the opening and the car quickly got back to normal temps but had little to no oil pressure. 30 minutes afterwards, I started the car and still no oil pressure. Figured I was done as I have been way down on power anyway (could not pull any CMC car down the straight).

    Went to load the car on the trailer before race 3 and the oil pressure was fine, so I went to grid. Still had no power and the oil pressure fluctuated greatly in the turns.

    Figured I was on borrowed time, so I did not risk it in race 4. Will try to check it out over the next couple of weeks.

  3. #33
    Senior Member Grass-Passer MikeP99Z's Avatar
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    I run Motul 15/50

  4. #34
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby marshall_mosty's Avatar
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    Here's my post-tear down report. #4 exhaust valve barely kissed the piston, so no gaping holes. The valve seized in it's guide. Upon disassembly of the head, it was most likely due to my overheating issues... I'm going to have all the guides checked and a new valve/guide in #4 exhaust. Should have the heads back by the end of next week. Gonna put a new water pump and radiator as well to try and cure the overheating issues. The passenger side head gasket was in good shape, so I have no clue as to why it was overheating...



    Marshall Mosty
    AI/SI Texas Regional Director
    2011 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
    AI #67 "Mosty Brothers' Racing" (RIP)
    ST6 #21 Toyota Corolla (being revived)...

  5. #35
    My damage was slightly more extensive:
    head.jpghead1.jpgpassenger.jpgrod.jpg2_rods.jpg
    There are two wrist pins in that last picture...
    Jim Dulaney
    AI 117

  6. #36
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby marshall_mosty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dulaney View Post
    My damage was slightly more extensive:
    head.jpghead1.jpgpassenger.jpgrod.jpg2_rods.jpg
    There are two wrist pins in that last picture...
    Okay Jim... you win...
    Marshall Mosty
    AI/SI Texas Regional Director
    2011 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
    AI #67 "Mosty Brothers' Racing" (RIP)
    ST6 #21 Toyota Corolla (being revived)...

  7. #37
    Senior Member Grass-Passer cobra132's Avatar
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    That blowed-up good!

  8. #38
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby marshall_mosty's Avatar
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    So I figured out my issues... When I put this motor together over the Christmas break, on the first warmup cycle the driver's side head gasket (fancy Cometic) didn't seal properly and I was blowing water out from between the head/block at 6/7. Pulled the head, did a visual, and put it back together. Didn't have any issue breaking in the motor at Cresson as well as the dyno tune session.. Fast forward to NOLA (my firsy event this year) and temps were 250+ and I'd lose all the water from the radiator between rounds. The temps caused the #4 exhaust valve to sieze in the guide. Root cause is the Cometic gasket didn't seal yet again... When I pulled the head today, the gasket itself had a slight twist and there was water in the cylinder...

    So, new head gasket and I'm going to have the heads diassembled and everything checked... Should be easily good for Hallett.
    Last edited by marshall_mosty; 05-12-2013 at 03:05 PM.
    Marshall Mosty
    AI/SI Texas Regional Director
    2011 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
    AI #67 "Mosty Brothers' Racing" (RIP)
    ST6 #21 Toyota Corolla (being revived)...

  9. #39
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Jim, we have a stock LS6 cam sitting in the garage. Has a season on it maybe. We have been running amsoil 15w50 in her car for a long time. go 3 to 5 events. She has a small oil cooler and it's HARD to get oil temp...might see 200 degrees on a hot day. We run it AT LEAST 1 qt high or they starve in corners....common LS problem.

    Regardless of oil, heat and dirt are the major issues. if you are still using the stock filter on an LS1, it is the same size or smaller than the one on our lemons neon. It is an item I plan on changing soon by installing a remote filter setup similar to the mustang. It runs dual FL-1a filters and I go a full season on one change of motul and topping off 1/2 qt per weekend. No oil cooler and oil temps below 230. New boss motor will have a cooler. Dirt is what kills oil and raises temps. keep it clean and you can go seasons on a change as long as it doesn't go acidic while sitting for months at a time.
    Ah, fugg it.

  10. #40
    Interesting thought, Matt.
    It'd be pretty easy to add a second filter inline with the new oil cooler assembly using either of these:
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-2177erl/overview/
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-1028/overview/

    I'd want to make absolutely sure that the filter had a bypass if clogged.

    With this, the cooler, and the accusump, it's starting to look as though I need to figure out how to run lines over to the passenger side. Anyone have any safe routing ideas?
    Jim Dulaney
    AI 117

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