Stoptech Rotor Question

[Supercharged111]

Rotor #2 I did by the book. Not 1 hour later it had movement, so I dissected rotor #1. I let the loctited wick in too long and it had dried so I zapped it with the 1/4" impact the first time. Some of the pins had made tiny divots in the hat itself. I disassembled and cleaned the hardware and reassembled like the second rotor. Any pins that didn't move I was able to tap on them to rotate them and get them to move. It seemed that holding the pin against the hat with one hand while spinning the torque wrench with the other was the ticket. I'm going to do a practice day before race weekend to validate the new setup prior to leaning on it competitively. Hopefully all goes well.

[ShadowBolt]

On Friday I went out in the first session of practice and put a transfer layer on the new rings. Only two laps using the Stoptech written method for bedding in new pads or rings. I used the last half of the second lap to let everything cool down without touching the brakes. I did the same driving to my pit area. I turn off the engine and coast into the pit and let the clutch out (in gear) to stop the car so that the pads are not touching the rings. An hour and a half later in the second session the breaks worked great. Like Michael the brakes were not good the first time out on new rings. Stoptech says if you can to break in new pads with old rings and new rings with old pads. At $550.00 for two new rings I want to do it as per their instructions.

JJ

[Supercharged111]

I have old Hawk DTC70, but don't think that's conducive to getting Raybestos ST45 bedded in. I'm starting from scratch. I remember Dan bedding some new pads at Hallett before, they were rolling smoke and stunk to high heaven! I've not experienced it to that degree, but again that's what Friday's for. I'll take it easy my first session and expect it to suck.

[RichardP]

There are lots of different formulations of brake pads and they do different things when they are bedded in. The R4's that we used to run would boil off binders when they got hot for the first time. This gas gets forced out between the pad and the rotor and you have no brakes while this is happening so you need to be ready for that. After that, the brakes work fine.

Some pads work by depositing a layer of material on the rotor, some don't. Some different pad compounds are compatible with other compounds, some are very much not. I bought my Stoptech kit used and my pads were incompatible with what the previous owner had used. After a bit of use, I picked up a nasty vibration that bounced the steering wheel out of my hands and made the car undrivable. I do not recommend bedding in with a different compound than you are planning on running.

Richard P.

[t500hps]

On Friday I went out in the first session of practice and put a transfer layer on the new rings. Only two laps using the Stoptech written method for bedding in new pads or rings. I used the last half of the second lap to let everything cool down without touching the brakes. I did the same driving to my pit area. I turn off the engine and coast into the pit and let the clutch out (in gear) to stop the car so that the pads are not touching the rings. An hour and a half later in the second session the breaks worked great. Like Michael the brakes were not good the first time out on new rings. Stoptech says if you can to break in new pads with old rings and new rings with old pads. At $550.00 for two new rings I want to do it as per their instructions.

JJ

Please tell me where you are getting 2 rings for $550????

[michaelmosty]

Please tell me where you are getting 2 rings for $550????

I actually found mine for $216 / side with the race hardware, THMotorsports. Just search for 31536110187 for the other side.

https://thmotorsports.com/7585529-st...saAnZpEALw_wcB

[t500hps]

I actually found mine for $216 / side with the race hardware, THMotorsports. Just search for 31536110187 for the other side.

https://thmotorsports.com/7585529-st...saAnZpEALw_wcB

Thanks......ordered some last month for $55 a piece more



WAIT......What's the difference between the last 2 digits?

31.536.1102.87
vs
31.536.1102.99

The later, (.99) is what I've always searched for and they are $358 on that same website.

[michaelmosty]

The 99 is the standard hardware and the 87 is the race hardware.

[t500hps]

The 99 is the standard hardware and the 87 is the race hardware.

i also noticed the .99 come up as a stoptech part number while the .87 come up as a Centric part number......wonder if there is a material difference??? (how long do these rotors typically last for you guys?)