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Thread: Stoptech Rotor Question

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  1. #1
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
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    On Friday I went out in the first session of practice and put a transfer layer on the new rings. Only two laps using the Stoptech written method for bedding in new pads or rings. I used the last half of the second lap to let everything cool down without touching the brakes. I did the same driving to my pit area. I turn off the engine and coast into the pit and let the clutch out (in gear) to stop the car so that the pads are not touching the rings. An hour and a half later in the second session the breaks worked great. Like Michael the brakes were not good the first time out on new rings. Stoptech says if you can to break in new pads with old rings and new rings with old pads. At $550.00 for two new rings I want to do it as per their instructions.

    JJ

  2. #2
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Supercharged111's Avatar
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    I have old Hawk DTC70, but don't think that's conducive to getting Raybestos ST45 bedded in. I'm starting from scratch. I remember Dan bedding some new pads at Hallett before, they were rolling smoke and stunk to high heaven! I've not experienced it to that degree, but again that's what Friday's for. I'll take it easy my first session and expect it to suck.
    RM CMC Director

  3. #3
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby RichardP's Avatar
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    There are lots of different formulations of brake pads and they do different things when they are bedded in. The R4's that we used to run would boil off binders when they got hot for the first time. This gas gets forced out between the pad and the rotor and you have no brakes while this is happening so you need to be ready for that. After that, the brakes work fine.

    Some pads work by depositing a layer of material on the rotor, some don't. Some different pad compounds are compatible with other compounds, some are very much not. I bought my Stoptech kit used and my pads were incompatible with what the previous owner had used. After a bit of use, I picked up a nasty vibration that bounced the steering wheel out of my hands and made the car undrivable. I do not recommend bedding in with a different compound than you are planning on running.

    Richard P.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by ShadowBolt View Post
    On Friday I went out in the first session of practice and put a transfer layer on the new rings. Only two laps using the Stoptech written method for bedding in new pads or rings. I used the last half of the second lap to let everything cool down without touching the brakes. I did the same driving to my pit area. I turn off the engine and coast into the pit and let the clutch out (in gear) to stop the car so that the pads are not touching the rings. An hour and a half later in the second session the breaks worked great. Like Michael the brakes were not good the first time out on new rings. Stoptech says if you can to break in new pads with old rings and new rings with old pads. At $550.00 for two new rings I want to do it as per their instructions.

    JJ
    Please tell me where you are getting 2 rings for $550????

  5. #5
    Senior Member Site AdminCarroll Shelby michaelmosty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by t500hps View Post
    Please tell me where you are getting 2 rings for $550????
    I actually found mine for $216 / side with the race hardware, THMotorsports. Just search for 31536110187 for the other side.

    https://thmotorsports.com/7585529-st...saAnZpEALw_wcB
    -Michael Mosty
    CMC #11 Mosty Brothers' Racing
    Director - TX Region

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by michaelmosty View Post
    I actually found mine for $216 / side with the race hardware, THMotorsports. Just search for 31536110187 for the other side.

    https://thmotorsports.com/7585529-st...saAnZpEALw_wcB
    Thanks......ordered some last month for $55 a piece more



    WAIT......What's the difference between the last 2 digits?

    31.536.1102.87
    vs
    31.536.1102.99

    The later, (.99) is what I've always searched for and they are $358 on that same website.
    Last edited by t500hps; 04-14-2021 at 08:56 PM.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Site AdminCarroll Shelby michaelmosty's Avatar
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    The 99 is the standard hardware and the 87 is the race hardware.
    -Michael Mosty
    CMC #11 Mosty Brothers' Racing
    Director - TX Region

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by michaelmosty View Post
    The 99 is the standard hardware and the 87 is the race hardware.
    i also noticed the .99 come up as a stoptech part number while the .87 come up as a Centric part number......wonder if there is a material difference??? (how long do these rotors typically last for you guys?)

  9. #9
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
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    I usually go four years on a set of rings. That is five to six events per year. The rings have never failed (cracked other than just small surface cracks) but I worry about them around four years 20-24 race weekends.

    JJ

  10. #10
    Member Rookie fscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by t500hps View Post
    i also noticed the .99 come up as a stoptech part number while the .87 come up as a Centric part number......wonder if there is a material difference??? (how long do these rotors typically last for you guys?)
    I asked Stoptech that a while back. The only difference is that the non-race hardware doesn't include the wave washers to reduce brake rotor rattle.

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