Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Cobra Caliper front brake pads

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Senior Member Grass-Passer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    422
    Blog Entries
    3
    Thanks all...looks like Craig has a set that will get me through it. Good to know on the Carbotech and Cobalt pads...will probably order a set and give them a shot. The GLOCS/Carbotech have been my favorite so far because they are so easy to modulate...makes braking easier for a hack like me.
    Daniel Records
    CMC # 34

  2. #2
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Arlington, TX
    Posts
    1,017
    Quote Originally Posted by drecords View Post
    Thanks all...looks like Craig has a set that will get me through it. Good to know on the Carbotech and Cobalt pads...will probably order a set and give them a shot. The GLOCS/Carbotech have been my favorite so far because they are so easy to modulate...makes braking easier for a hack like me.
    Used to run carbotechs, cobalts are the shit, you won’t be disappointed, thanks Jerry!
    Last edited by mach1; 05-30-2018 at 05:18 PM.
    Tyler Gardner
    CMC #13 2015-2017
    SM #013 2018
    www.dfwmustangs.net

  3. #3
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    1,449
    Blog Entries
    2
    What would be a good cobalt replacement for the XP/GS 10s?

    If anyone has some used ones for the stoptechs i'd like to try them out some time.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby RichardP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Friendswood, TX
    Posts
    1,198
    Just a public service reminder from your nerdy NASA engineer: Many of these different race pad compounds leave a deposit of material on the rotor. The pads often won't even work well until they have been pushed hard enough and heated up enough to leave this deposit. It's not uncommon for different pad materials to not be compatible with each other. Swapping different compounds around can lead to some really crappy braking.

    I bought my Stoptech's used. Whatever pads were used before I got them most certainly were not compatible with the Porterfield R4 pads that I use. As the different deposits unevenly wore off/mixed/deposited, I got brake shudder that bounced the steering wheel out of my hands under heavy braking. Turning or replacing the rotors is the only solution. Turning slotted or drilled floating rotors is logistically challenging...


    Richard P.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    1,449
    Blog Entries
    2
    Yeah I'm familiar with the concept of pad deposits on rotors, but I figured my XP10s were abrasive enough to make quick work of whatever my used stoptechs had on them.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Grass-Passer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    422
    Blog Entries
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by RichardP View Post
    Just a public service reminder from your nerdy NASA engineer: Many of these different race pad compounds leave a deposit of material on the rotor. The pads often won't even work well until they have been pushed hard enough and heated up enough to leave this deposit. It's not uncommon for different pad materials to not be compatible with each other. Swapping different compounds around can lead to some really crappy braking.

    I bought my Stoptech's used. Whatever pads were used before I got them most certainly were not compatible with the Porterfield R4 pads that I use. As the different deposits unevenly wore off/mixed/deposited, I got brake shudder that bounced the steering wheel out of my hands under heavy braking. Turning or replacing the rotors is the only solution. Turning slotted or drilled floating rotors is logistically challenging...


    Richard P.
    I do wire brush the rotors before installing different compounds with some brakleen liberally sprayed while wire brushing. Usually get some slight pad judder when they're bedding in but it goes away afer a few good stops.
    Daniel Records
    CMC # 34

  7. #7
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    1,449
    Blog Entries
    2
    Just following up, my g loc 10s are almost done and curious about the cobalt xr2s.

    Anyone done a comparison between these compounds and have a half worn set I can bum off them to try?

  8. #8
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Georgetown, TEXAS
    Posts
    4,268
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Pranav View Post
    Just following up, my g loc 10s are almost done and curious about the cobalt xr2s.

    Anyone done a comparison between these compounds and have a half worn set I can bum off them to try?
    I have at least two sets with 1/8" to 3/16" left on them. You are welcome to them at COTA or even before that if you want to try them.


    JJ

  9. #9
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Georgetown, TEXAS
    Posts
    4,268
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by RichardP View Post
    Just a public service reminder from your nerdy NASA engineer: Many of these different race pad compounds leave a deposit of material on the rotor. The pads often won't even work well until they have been pushed hard enough and heated up enough to leave this deposit. It's not uncommon for different pad materials to not be compatible with each other. Swapping different compounds around can lead to some really crappy braking.

    I bought my Stoptech's used. Whatever pads were used before I got them most certainly were not compatible with the Porterfield R4 pads that I use. As the different deposits unevenly wore off/mixed/deposited, I got brake shudder that bounced the steering wheel out of my hands under heavy braking. Turning or replacing the rotors is the only solution. Turning slotted or drilled floating rotors is logistically challenging...


    Richard P.
    Your issue Richard is the R4 is not a very aggressive pad and has trouble removing the old transfer layer.


    JJ

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •