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Where were you at WRL COTA wisenheimer?!Originally Posted by MikeP99Z
Ah, fugg it.
No, i wasn't available to attend due to work.
Now this has me wondering if the rear is to blame on my car too. The last couple events have been horrible, I had to left foot tap after every corner of every race. Found a loose bearing up front so swapped it for junkyard fresh and it was less bad, but still no good.
RM CMC Director
A few years ago with Misty's pink car, I went so far as to cap the rear brakes and drove the car around TWS for a couple laps without hitting the brakes (had free access during the week because she ran the place). I pulled into hot pit and went for the brakes and there was minimal knockback. This was with the old factory OEM hubs. We eventually went with the Dulaney adapters and SKF bearings and saw better results but still had to maintenance tap after every hard turn. Granted we were running 315 wide DOT R's. Eventually, I put an eaton HD in the car and that fixed some of the problem and then we put a 9" with tapered roller bearings. Problem was gone except it never had a very good pedal. The car we have now has a GREAT pedal. Far better than he old one she had even with a new MC. I can push/pull the axles in/out quite a bit. I've done all the typical stuff to make sure the calipers slide but after talking to Patterson, I had not though about the torsen causing some knockback with the way it is designed. That will be coming out and it will be getting an Eaton again. I still have the 9" housing but it requires you cut up the floor to get it in.
has anyone ever installed a rotating piston caliper from a Mustang? I realize there is some "custom" fabrication to do it but I have a milling machine and a ton of mustang junk laying around. Never had this problem on the mustang even when I had .135" and .180" of axle wear on the inner ends. Probably going to be my next attempt at curing this on this car over the off season.
Ah, fugg it.
You're on the right track
But again like I said eliminating end play is key.
Can you try make thicker c clips to take your end play down to near zero?
My brakes are feeling pretty good right now with new c clips alone, but want to try take end play down to almost zero too.
Also if your running a torsen consider buying a new center thurst block and measuring it against what you have.
Maybe that's worn too. I replaced mine last season after I had to cut out a stripped pin bolt.
I just had an idea, why not weld a bead on top of a Dorman clip that's never seen oil, then flatten it back out with a sanding flapwheel on an angle grinder until it fits?
RM CMC Director
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