Here's a setup I'm willing to test.
Replace the torque arm with a tubular unit and heim joint front.
No changes in geometry and I'm replacing a stock piece with a heavier one.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/041...nsion-upgrades
Here's a setup I'm willing to test.
Replace the torque arm with a tubular unit and heim joint front.
No changes in geometry and I'm replacing a stock piece with a heavier one.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/041...nsion-upgrades
Interesting concept. Worth a try to see if it solves your problem. I think the torque arm shaft going through the center of the heim joint might gall over time. It would also be better if the heim joint was held into a bore with snap rings or the like. Welding the outside of the bearing isn't going to be good for the life of the joint.
I think the factory torque arms arm free to move fore and aft, albeit with some friction in the bushing. The factory setup probably doesn't allow for angular changes as well. Has anyone tried a squishy rubber bushing to see if the issue is better or worse? We have urethane torque arm bushings on the Red Shift cars.
- Josh
CMC #50
I lube the shit out of mine before sticking it in.
I don't even unbolt the clamshell anymore I just tug on it to get it out.
We're talking about sliding our torque arms in/out smoothly and making sure we avoid our rear ends from bouncing while doing it. Not sure what you're referring to?
The OE rubber bushings are preferable than the urethane IMHO. The urethane just adds friction fore/aft and bind bump/droop. Neither is good.
Al Fernandez
The f-body aftermarket was built on one Jean shorts dad shoes gold chain wearing guy's wallet at a time.
But yeah I spent a solid minute trying to figure out why the trans mountt was going next to the oil pan lol
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