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View Full Version : Replacing the floor in my enclosed trailer. Need idea's.



GlennCMC70
03-27-2010, 08:22 PM
I've replaced all the wood on my rear door of my trailer and I have ripped up the 2 rear most sheets today and plan to rip up 2 more tomorrow as well as replace those 4 sheets. There is two strips of diamond plate aluminum for where the tires contact the floor and I plan to reuse those. But the center had the typical white/black checkered vinyl floor (single sheet, not 12" squares) down the center. I want to replace that (since it was ripped out to replace the wood) w/ something that will allow me to wash out the trailer regularly and not hold water under it. I havent washed this thing out in several weeks, and the wood and vinyl was wet today when I pulled it up. This sure sped up the wood rot. I checked the usuall home improvement stores for the same vinyl I had in there w/ no luck. Looking for some good creative ideas from you guys. Cheap is king!
I have been wanting to use the spray on bed liner on the whole floor and up the walls about 8" or so. To me this would be ideal, but surely the cost will prevent me from doing this.

Anyways, shoot me your creative ideas.

mitchntx
03-27-2010, 08:38 PM
How about Heculiner?

It's about $100 a gallon. 2 gallons should easily do your trailer.

Burch applied it to his truck's bed, as I recall. It looked great!

TJ Bain
03-27-2010, 10:33 PM
We used the garage floor epoxy that already had the sand mixed in. Be sure to do it before you get oils on the floor or it may not stick well.

GlennCMC70
03-27-2010, 10:45 PM
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DPL0/TRG250.oap?pt=N0479&ppt=C0171

Al Fernandez
03-28-2010, 09:07 AM
Given how long marine plywood lasts I doubt you'll be able to do anything thats cheaper in the long run, even if it does extend the life somewhat. I say get good plywood, throw a coat of paint on it, and wash away. Leave the doors open for airflow after washing.

jeffburch
03-28-2010, 03:46 PM
No.
It was this junk I bought at English color.
Was made in GB or somewheres.
Alligator something or other.
It peeled in places despite meticulous prep.

jb

GlennCMC70
03-28-2010, 05:00 PM
I agree w/ you Al, and thats the way I went. Even if I used pressure treated plywood, oil would still soak into it. That means I still need to coat it w/ something. So in the long run, it should be cheaper this way.
Now, what yo coat it w/?

Anyone ever priced the spray in bed liners? Whats the cost for that?

I have 250+ sqft of floor. 8 sheets of plywood.

The old stuff was regulare plywood w/ the typical gray paint on it. W/ all the roof leaks this thing had, its pretty amazing how long the wood lasted. The worst two places were the rear door and the bottom sides of the main floor.

I also still need to cover the walls and roof. I'll likely use the same stuff I used on the side doors. Smooth and should allow water to roll right off. And will not need paint.

rleng1
03-28-2010, 08:13 PM
While we are on trailer upgrades. Any idea or suggestions on insulation for the roof, and how to secure it in place?

mitchntx
03-28-2010, 08:20 PM
Foam board and construction adhesive?
Then finish the roof on the inside with thin panel board to keep it in place?

rleng1
03-30-2010, 04:26 PM
Nice. thanks

BlueFirePony
03-30-2010, 05:07 PM
Anyone ever priced the spray in bed liners? Whats the cost for that?


Ford Ranger XLT done about 5 years ago with Rhino liner...originally around $500 but we had a $50 coupon and they screwed up the job a couple of times so I negotiated lower $. It's held up pretty good though under abuse.
Also had the F150 done but with something besides Rhino (might have been Herculiner..not sure) - I think it was in the sub $500 range too.