Trailer Recommendations

[blk96gt]

I've been borrowing a buddies trailer up until now, but its to the point now where I'd like to have my own. I've talked to a couple people, and the general recommendation seems to be the Kwik Load (tilt) trailers.

My max price range will probably be around $2300-$2500 for the trailer, not including TT&L, straps, etc.(still kicking myself for not buying Matt's trailer.) Since even used the Kwik load trailers tend to be over my budget, I've pretty much ruled those out. That leaves the solid steel deck, open middle steel deck, and wood deck.

Am I right in thinking an 18' would be the best length? What are the pro's/con's for steel deck vs. wood, open middle vs. solid? Solid seems like it would be useful if I ever needed to use it to move something other than a car. At some point I also plan on putting a tire rack on it as well.

My ideal trailer is one I could buy and not have to make any modifications to the trailer or ramps to get a lowered car on there, but I'm not sure how likely that is right off the lot.

I did some searching on the forums and couldn't find much info about trailer recs. Trailer dealer recommendations in the Houston area would also be helpful, but I'm not against driving to Dallas or Austin for a trailer that is worth it. Thanks for the help.

[ShadowBolt]

I've been borrowing a buddies trailer up until now, but its to the point now where I'd like to have my own. I've talked to a couple people, and the general recommendation seems to be the Kwik Load (tilt) trailers.

My max price range will probably be around $2300-$2500 for the trailer, not including TT&L, straps, etc.(still kicking myself for not buying Matt's trailer.) Since even used the Kwik load trailers tend to be over my budget, I've pretty much ruled those out. That leaves the solid steel deck, open middle steel deck, and wood deck.

Am I right in thinking an 18' would be the best length? What are the pro's/con's for steel deck vs. wood, open middle vs. solid? Solid seems like it would be useful if I ever needed to use it to move something other than a car. At some point I also plan on putting a tire rack on it as well.

My ideal trailer is one I could buy and not have to make any modifications to the trailer or ramps to get a lowered car on there, but I'm not sure how likely that is right off the lot.

I did some searching on the forums and couldn't find much info about trailer recs. Trailer dealer recommendations in the Houston area would also be helpful, but I'm not against driving to Dallas or Austin for a trailer that is worth it. Thanks for the help.

Robb has a nice trailer. If I remember the ramps are long and pull out of the back instead of having to be hauled around from the side. The steel deak is hotter than Hell in July. My first trailer had the middle open and I used to change oil with it on the trailer. Just one advantage.

JJ

[blk96gt]

Thanks for the response Jerry. Any idea where Robb got his trailer from?

You've got got one of the tilt trailers now right Jerry?

[kbrewmr2]

keep that tire rack low when you build it - most of the ones I see in the paddock are not good for mpg. Extra deck length may help you get it low and out of the airstream.

As someone who has used at some point a wood, open metal, and closed metal in his career - I say it's not a huge deal any of the 3 ways. They'll always be a time you'll have one and wish it was one of the others. Look for nice axles, brakes, and general build quality first imho.

[Rob Liebbe]

I had my ramps custom made. I think they are 8-9-or 10 feet long and slide into the back of the trailer and then hang on a bar that goes all the way across the back of the trailer so that I can adjust for different vehicle widths. It also has a custom tire rack/tool box holder. You're welcome to check it out. It stays in Jersey Village but may make an appearance at MSR-Houston in January underneath Randy English's Camaro.

[Fbody383]

http://www.countrysidetrailers.com/

I believe mine is 20' wooden deck, 3500lb axles, brakes on one axle. I built some wood ramps similar in style to race ramps to get the loading angle better. Have had a couple of the board bow up but that's it. Just make sure it's actually attached to the truck when loading or unloading... unless you like that look in the year end video.

I had borrowed a steel deck before I bought mine and found/thought it felt heavier.

[Pranav]

I've been extremely happy with my Trailmaster 18' steel deck.

http://www.houstontrailerconnection.com/
http://www.trailmastertrailers.net/trailers/car/tmsfch.htm

The dealer (Trailer Connection) here in Houston is about 5 minutes from my parents' house in Spring, and last I checked every Trailmaster was built to order with 2-3 weeks lead time. Back in 2010 their "standard" model ran for about $2700, came with LED lights, full steel deck, a spare, sliding pull-out ramps, and the standard folding jack; the key is how the deck is notched for the axles to let it sit low. In my case I took it a few steps forward and added a fixed 7K jack, 4" drop axles, dual electric brakes, a removable fender, a 2nd spare+mount, and a toolbox, which upped the price a little.

Check 'em out, not too sure if they have much Trailmaster stuff in inventory nowadays...

[BryanL]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Open-Car-Hauler-Race-Trailer-/190776497687?_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&forcev4exp=true