Trailer Talk

[Rsmith350]

Who's got suggestions on trailers, good, bad, cheap, advise? Thought this would be a good thread to start. When I searched, nothing came up.

[Rsmith350]

I'm thinking that I want a 16 foot but I wanna build a tire rack/tool supply thing for the front.

[Rob Liebbe]

I'm thinking that I want a 16 foot but I wanna build a tire rack/tool supply thing for the front.I like my tool box and tire rack. 16ft is too short in my opinion, how long is a 4th Gen Camaro anyway? Big tires are better. Long ramps are a definite must or carry race ramps or wood. A winch would be good because you have a Chevy. Seriously, walk the pits and take notes and pictures.

[Tilton]

Kwikload trailers are really nice but come with 14" wheels and are about $500-$1000 more than a traditional trailer. http://www.kwikload.com/special.htm

Pranav sent a bunch of people here with good results (Spring, TX): houstontrailerconnection.com

I'm also looking (not really) for a trailer with the following:
- 18'
- steel deck
- 4' dove tail
- 6' slide in ramps
- 15" wheels
- trailer brakes on both axles
- D rings
In the end I was looking at a $3750 trailer, for a few $$ more I could just get the Kwikload.

[ShadowBolt]

I have a Kwik-load and if I could do it over I would get the same trailer as Rob has. I hated carrying the heavy short ramps from the side to the rear and back. Rob's trailer has long ramps that just pull out. Now I don't know if he has to jack up the front like I used to and like Marshall and Michael do. I did not like that either. The Kwik-load is a good trailer but 14" wheels is not good for tires selection. If your car is really low you need a slide trailer like the Sloan.

JJ

[AI#97]

Go to racingjunk.com....you can find decent economy 24' enclosed trailers now for just over $4k BRAND NEW. They usually come with 3500# axles which is borderline but some come with 4800# axles if you look well. Best deals are closer to Waco as they make most of them there.

Also, post here and on NASAforums/Texas to see if someone is looking to upgrade and might make you a hell of a deal. I got Jeremiah's old 24' when he was liquidating for CHEAP and you might be able to find Randy's old trailer on craigslist! ;) too soon?! LOL!

[MikeP99Z]

What's your budget?

[Rob Liebbe]

I have a Kwik-load and if I could do it over I would get the same trailer as Rob has. I hated carrying the heavy short ramps from the side to the rear and back. Rob's trailer has long ramps that just pull out. Now I don't know if he has to jack up the front like I used to and like Marshall and Michael do. I did not like that either. The Kwik-load is a good trailer but 14" wheels is not good for tires selection. If your car is really low you need a slide trailer like the Sloan.

JJMy trailer started as just a steel deck with a 4 ft dove tail and hydraulic inertia brakes. I am very lucky to have a friend who fabricates and we added the toolbox mount, tire rack, new ramps with slide-in racks, under bed spare tire mount from a Chevy truck, replaced the sliding tongue with a solid type, replaced hydraulic brakes with electric, re-wired everything including reverse lights for backing in the dark, and now a winch and mount. It has 15" Load Range D trailer tires and I've only had 1 tread separation that I didn't even notice until I arrived at my destination. My ramps are close to 8 ft long. The trailer originally came with something like 4 ft ramps that loaded a high riding drag car. With the long ramps, I don't need to raise the front of the trailer but the air dam does drag a bit. The trailer is parked with two tongue locks and a wheel boot to discourage theft. There are other trailers parked nearby with less security which will hopefully be taken before mine. It is all steel, heavy, and makes a lot of noise as it bangs down the road. It has hauled Mustangs, Camaros, a 69 Torino, a Highlander, a Dodge 1500 4x2, a Crown Victoria, an Explorer, lumber and some ATV's. I like my trailer in case you are wondering. Another consideration is brake control. I prefer electric and recommend a good digital proportional controller like the Tekonsha Prodigy line. All the above is just my 2 cents, your mileage may vary.

[Trublu]

Mine is a pretty simple point A to B model with very few bells and whistles. It started life as a landscape trailer, progressed to jet ski team race trailer then I picked it up for $400 gave it a quick and dirty once over and promptly stuck 5000 miles on it last year. Like Rob I quite like my trailer, it has long ramps, a place for tires/tools and serves its primary purpose in life quite well; dragging my car and crud from point A to B.

[kbrewmr2]

I'm thinking that I want a 16 foot but I wanna build a tire rack/tool supply thing for the front.

build it low, most of the people that do these have them way the hell up in the air creating a shitton of drag. Whole point of an open is trading having nice weather protection and such for lower drag / better pulling speeds / better mpg.

16' sounds like an MR2 size trailer.

+1 to the Prodigy brake controller. They're the gold standard. Pony up for it.

[Pranav]

Ross, you want an 18'

Come check out my trailer this weekend. I'm happy with it, but if I were to do it over again, I'd go with 2" drop axles instead of 4"/ Also the Houston trailer connection stopped carrying my brand of trailer, have to find another dealer.

[Rob Liebbe]

One thing to watch for, and maybe that is Pranav's point, is how tall the fenders are above the top of the deck. I can't open the driver's door on lower cars because the fender is too high. Some fenders will rotate down, Uhaul trailers have this feature. I'll likely weld or bolt stop/height pads on my trailer after the new car is finished.

[Pranav]

Nah, my trailer just drags on driveways too much, it's a 18' + dovetail with a 4" drop. I opted for a removable fender to alleviate that issue, but havent had to use it since I stopped racing street cars with windows, just climb out!

The basics of what I had built in 2010:

18' dovetail
7K FIXED jack; less flimsy than those fold up ones
TWO spare tire mounts
Removable fender
4" drop axles
Both axles have brakes
Nice aluminum A frame toolbox
Adjustable coupler
LED lights in the back

The made in China tires they came with weren't bad, but I think the dealers are the ones that put the tires on as they're shipped without them. If you have a choice, just go ahead and pony up for the 225 uprated tires (D or E, I run C).

I want to say $3500 before tax back in 2010, pricing is all over the place these days. I had to weld on skid wheels on the back and weld-nuts for the removable fender, along with cutting out and lifting the fixed jack for better ground clearance in the front, but the manufacturer is pretty good to work with so you may be able to get some of that sorted before it leaves their shop (send 'em weld nuts and skid wheels possibly). Check them out and see if you can just work with them directly:

http://www.trailmastertrailers.net/

[blk96gt]

I've got an 18' Diamond C steel deck that I bought from Houston Trailer Connection (same place that Pranav bought his trailer from). So far it's great, LED lights all the way around, 4' dove tail, 5' ramps, electric brakes on rear axle, painted underneath (many steel decks I looked at were not painted underneath), two welded in d-rings in the front and two in the rear, and three stake pockets on each side. Also added a tire rack to the front with the help of a friend.

My plan was to find some 6' or longer ramps for it, but I've had no major scraping issues while loading/unloading the car. The air deflector will catch sometimes when taking it off the trailer, but I just go slow and have never had it rip off. Let me know if you want to take a look at it this weekend.

[Fbody383]

I like my wood deck from Countryside in Spring ---> www.countrysidetrailers.com

I need/want to add some market lamps on the front of the fenders so I can see the stupid thing at night and some back up lights.

Brakes on one axle and so far so good.

[AllZWay]

My trailer is a fairly cheap one I bought back when I first started dirt track racing. I have had to replace the wood once since 2004, but I do try to keep it coated with water seal....and with the way a Chevy leaks it has a natural oil coating.

You definitely want at least 18ft. I am rpetty sure mine is 18ft. with a 2 foot dovetail.

The only think I don't like is not having the ramps built into the end of the trailer so you can just slide them out. Mine mount in the side.

I also converted my lights to LED. If you get one that doesn't have LED...change them.. it will save you alot of headache replacing bulbs.

[ShadowBolt]

One thing I did like about the trailer I got from Varner. It had a wood deck but was open in the middle. When I had that trailer I almost never took it off to work on the car. Certainly not to change fluids.


Jerry

[y5e06]

I have had to replace the wood once since 2004, but I do try to keep it coated with water seal...
The only think I don't like is not having the ramps built into the end of the trailer so you can just slide them out... If you get one that doesn't have LED...change them.. it will save you alot of headache replacing bulbs.

all of this is very valid. wood goes bad and needs replacing, not to mention splinters and weight gain when they get soaking wet.
an open deck would be nice for cars only, but i've used mine to haul everything from yard dirt to furniture to dozens of sticks of steel.
rear slide in ramps are the way to go, unless you get a tilting type.
incandescent bulbs suck. I've have spent more hours than fingers on both hands chasing electrical gremlins associated with the bulbs or sockets. Not to mention the LEDs are quite a bit brighter.
oh, if getting a new one or reworking an older one consider getting brakes on BOTH axles. mine has that and its fantastic considering i tow w/ a lighter weight 20th century 1/2 ton.

oh, these work fantastic too... w/ or w/o the sway controler
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/P/S/PS49903_1000.jpg

[Alien]

I think Countryside is where I got my trailer too. I still grin everytime I load the car. It's a 16' Texas Bragg open deck with 4" drop axles and 5' ramps that slide out from the rear, LED lights, fixed jack, bulldog hitch, removable fender. Never had any issues loading low cars. Mine does scrape every so often at the rear. Ripped the caster wheels on the rear off and replaced them with solid rollers. I think Pranav went a bit too far with the 4" drop AND dovetail, but I know he was hauling a REALLY low car at the time. Like Ken said, low trailer keeps the car out of the headwind.

Loading the racecar, I just climb out the window. Some stock cars will still clear the fender, but I have had to remove it a few times.

I looked for a long time to find a light trailer without going aluminum since I'd be starting out with only the Ranger (the primary reason for a 16' over 18'). This one didn't use overkill size angle and channels for what I expecting to haul. Brakes on both axles controled by a Prodigy along with a weight distribution hitch/sway control.

Only time I wish I had a full deck instead of open was when trying to load the totaled donor LT1 car. The 16' barely fits next to my parents house (free storage!) but it that wasn't an issue, I'd get a 18'. If I ever get around to adding a tire rack, it will be over the nose/hood of the car and back up in the wind.

[Rsmith350]

Great stuff, I almost bought a 16' today. Thanks for the advice. My thought is that if I'm going to spend $3500 on a trailer then I'll go Matt's route and go enclosed. I was thinking like 1500-1800 for an open. Any cons to enclosed besides gas mileage and storage?

[Fbody383]

Any cons to enclosed besides gas mileage and storage? Nah, you'll go stay at a hotel some some of us slackers will keep an eye on it for you. I think you should buy enclosed...

[kbrewmr2]

depending on what you're towing with an enclosed can be "fun" in crosswinds and just plain be hard on the truck in general. You're pulling around a giant freakin' box. But if you've got the truck to handle the task, budget for fuel, etc, then the nice dry place for the car to hang out in (and sometimes you / your crew too!) is certainly a big plus.

I'll be the guy with an open trailer doing 10mph over passing on your left :)

[Rsmith350]

depending on what you're towing with an enclosed can be "fun" in crosswinds and just plain be hard on the truck in general. You're pulling around a giant freakin' box. But if you've got the truck to handle the task, budget for fuel, etc, then the nice dry place for the car to hang out in (and sometimes you / your crew too!) is certainly a big plus.

I'll be the guy with an open trailer doing 10mph over passing on your left :)Now that the cr is almost done a new truck is in the plans. I'm thinking 6.0L GMC should do the trick

[ShadowBolt]

Great stuff, I almost bought a 16' today. Thanks for the advice. My thought is that if I'm going to spend $3500 on a trailer then I'll go Matt's route and go enclosed. I was thinking like 1500-1800 for an open. Any cons to enclosed besides gas mileage and storage?
Pull an enclosed with your tow vehicle first. I don't like how much power it takes to push the wind or the extra gas you burn but I don't have room at my house to store a big enclosed. I built a Little two car garage Across from my garage that I park the Jeep and the Race car on the 17' (custom length to fit in the garage) trailer.

JJ

[michaelmosty]

My trailer was about $1400 brand new back in 2005. I know the prices have gone up quite a bit since then. My trailer stayed outside for its first 8 years and I ended up replacing the wood after about 5 years.
I do wish my ramps were longer but with the wood extensions I made, it gets the job done. It is a pain to always jack the front up to load and unload but I got used to that many years ago.
Also, my wheel covers are too tall so I have to go in/out of the window.
It is the most basic trailer but gets the job done.

[kbrewmr2]

Now that the cr is almost done a new truck is in the plans. I'm thinking 6.0L GMC should do the trick
GMC what? 1500? 2500?

[rleng1]

I like my wood deck from Countryside in Spring ---> www.countrysidetrailers.com

I need/want to add some market lamps on the front of the fenders so I can see the stupid thing at night and some back up lights.

Brakes on one axle and so far so good.

Francis, can you still load your car without it being hitched to the tow vehicle, or was that an extra option.

[Fbody383]

Francis, can you still load your car without it being hitched to the tow vehicle, or was that an extra option. Man... long distance love. And I was gonna PM you about missing having you around this weekend.

In a moment of weakness and self-disclosure- I was unloading it a couple weeks back and my brother had helped me line up the truck and put the trailer on... he didn't latch the tongue. I get the car just at the rear axle and the trailer tongue is at the top of the tailgate. I stop the car, he chocks the trailer, moves the truck and I slowly back it off. No damage done... but I did have a flashback.

And we do miss having you around, brother.

[rleng1]

With you and the gang. Nothing but classics. Good weekend.

[Storm Trooper]

Now that the cr is almost done a new truck is in the plans. I'm thinking 6.0L GMC should do the trick
I am using my gmc 1500 5.7 250000k to pull Al'S old inclosed trailer. It works real good. I believe it is a 24'. plus I have a place to stay at the track! If you add hotel costs in its well worth it. (In my opinion)

[AI#97]

If you are going to look for a tow vehicle, buy the most that you can. We bought Misty's 04.5 Ram 3500 a few months back from a private owner in Fredericksburg. had 123,000 miles and is in great shape. managed 13.5 mpg towing her 28' trailer this weekend and had ZERO worries about hills, winds or anything. My 08 Ram 2500 struggles due to the larger than stock tires and 3.42's but would still hook onto anything and yank it to hell and back. Also gets 20+ on the hwy unloaded.

Also, if anyone is looking for a load leveling setup, I have a used one we don't need anymore that I'd sell for $100. has frame clamps, bars, chains, adjustable hitch and 2-5/8" ball along with tube for setting the chain tension.

[BryanL]

I am using my gmc 1500 5.7 250000k to pull Al'S old inclosed trailer. It works real good. I believe it is a 24'. plus I have a place to stay at the track! If you add hotel costs in its well worth it. (In my opinion)

I share the same thought on using it instead of spending money on a hotel. Though I differ on using a half ton but I have never tried. I do know that my 04 2500 Sub is night/day better than my 99 2500 Sub in handling the 24 and 28 trailers I have towed with. The brakes just don't compare. I love the diesel towing as well but that comes with some added expense but in my case the cost of the truck was the same as a gasser.
Ross-I would look for a 8.1 instead of a 6.0 in a 2500 chevy/gmc. The 8.1 gets the allison trans and has a ton more torque than the 6.0. The 6.0 is an unbelievably good motor but you have to spin it pretty hard. Also-just because the car is built doesn't mean the money being spent really slows down any.

[MikeP99Z]

Also-just because the car is built doesn't mean the money being spent really slows down any.

Shhh, we don't discuss such things on public forums...

[Rsmith350]

Shhh, we don't discuss such things on public forums...

Lol Thanks Bryan, this has been part of the plan for awhile. I'm with you on the 8.1 but it has to be my daily driver as well. Probably going to do an 18 foot open for this year and save up for an enclosed next year

[AI#97]

I towed my 24' with the escalade and it did fine with the 6.2L and the 6spd trans. Had to watch trans temps though. Biggest issue was brakes but the 22" wheels didn't help much. upgraded to EBC green stuff pads all around and it finally stopped better, but was still a mess waiting to happen and that is why I traded it for the 2500 diesel. We also towed the 24' with Misty's old 2010 Ram 1500. it did great but had to have the load distributing hitch. IT was also a fantastic daily driver.

Again, when it comes to a tow vehicle, don't scrimp. It's the one thing you MUST rely on to get you there and back regardless of what happens with the race car or trailer.

[Racebrat]

Man... long distance love. And I was gonna PM you about missing having you around this weekend.

In a moment of weakness and self-disclosure- I was unloading it a couple weeks back and my brother had helped me line up the truck and put the trailer on... he didn't latch the tongue. I get the car just at the rear axle and the trailer tongue is at the top of the tailgate. I stop the car, he chocks the trailer, moves the truck and I slowly back it off. No damage done... but I did have a flashback.

And we do miss having you around, brother.

I did that...once....the trailer tongue came flying up and left a nice ding in the top of KC's tailgate....I was never allowed to help load after that....now we just pull 40' worth of trailer around.....

[Bacook]

I'm pulling a 24' Wells Cargo enclosed with the load distributing hitch with our '12 Nissan Armada with leveling rear shocks. It's stable and smooth past 80MPH and gets about 8MPG. That sucks, but it's only marginally better without the trailer, so I have no complaints. I also have an electronic brake controller that senses deceleration and incline and varies the trailer braking accordingly. It's a very easy drive when towing.

[MikeP99Z]

Mixon failed to clip the latch on mine one time after he hooked it to my truck...tailgate dent and a car half stuck on the trailer (Thanks Corey for the help circa 2005)...

[kbrewmr2]

glad to hear I'm not the only dummy that's pulled this one

(mine was my fault, but I blame it on getting too hot / tired / unfocused at the time)