2007 Spec Iron mustang fully sorted

[Suck fumes]

Selling my newly built 2007 Spec iron car. This thing is fully sorted and comes with all the go fast parts. Currently the car is setup with the stock shocks and special springs cause I can drive it faster with this setup. It will come with the HVT setup as well though along with the ford racing intake and tuner kit.

Has two sets of black GT500 wheels and Toyo RR tires with 3 heat cycles on them.

I set the Road Atlanta track record and fastest race lap with it at this years NASA nationals.

Overall I finished in 2nd place at nationals as well.

Has a few boo boos on it from the race but they are not that bad.

$39,500 buys it all with spares.

Email me with questions. Aaronmcspadden at gmail

[Suck fumes]

Selling my newly built 2007 Spec iron car. This thing is fully sorted and comes with all the go fast parts. Currently the car is setup with the stock shocks and special springs cause I can drive it faster with this setup. It will come with the HVT setup as well though along with the ford racing intake and tuner kit.

Has two sets of black GT500 wheels and Toyo RR tires with 3 heat cycles on them.

I set the Road Atlanta track record and fastest race lap with it at this years NASA nationals.

Overall I finished in 2nd place at nationals as well.

Has a few boo boos on it from the race but they are not that bad.

$36,500 buys it all with spares.

Email me with questions. Aaronmcspadden at gmail

[Storm Trooper]

Selling my newly built 2007 Spec iron car. This thing is fully sorted and comes with all the go fast parts. Currently the car is setup with the stock shocks and special springs cause I can drive it faster with this setup. It will come with the HVT setup as well though along with the ford racing intake and tuner kit.

Has two sets of black GT500 wheels and Toyo RR tires with 3 heat cycles on them.



I set the Road Atlanta track record and fastest race lap with it at this years NASA nationals.

Overall I finished in 2nd place at nationals as well.

Has a few boo boos on it from the race but they are not that bad.

$42k buys it all with spares.

Email me with questions. Aaronmcspadden at gmail

Is the CMC mustang off the block?������

[Suck fumes]

Yep. It's being transformed into an AI car.

[mach1]

Yep. It's being transformed into an AI car.

By yourself or someone else?

[Suck fumes]

Combination of me and Illicit Motorsports. Kevin is going to juice up my current engine to spec.

[Supercharged111]

Combination of me and Illicit Motorsports. Kevin is going to juice up my current engine to spec.

With boost? Just slap a Coyote in there and be done with it.

[Suck fumes]

Coyote swaps in an older car are really expensive. Cheaper to beef up what I got.

[marshall_mosty]

Super/turbo motors are only okay in a V6/4cyl. Minimum drops from 2700 to 2600lbs in those cars, but you still have to meet power/weight for your abs selection.

[Suck fumes]

I'm not running ABS. I'm faster and smoother without it.

[marshall_mosty]

I'm not running ABS. I'm faster and smoother without it.

Check out the table in the rules when you dyno the car:

No ABS: 9.0 lb/hp, 8.5 lb/tq
Stock or pre '05 Mustang ABS: 9.25 lb/hp, 8.75 lb/TQ
2005+ Mustang ANS: 9.5 lb/hp, 9.0 lb/tq

[Suck fumes]

Exactly. 9.0 and 8.5 sound a lot more appealing.

[AI#97]

Coyote swaps in an older car are really expensive. Cheaper to beef up what I got.

It's not that bad when done smartly and you sell off the parts you have now for a good price. I bought a 7500 mile takeout from a 2011 GT for the same price I sold my complete 2V setup. It was down to headers and wiring harness at that point. Cheapest 130 rwhp add I have ever done!

[Suck fumes]

Ya the 5.0 out of the trucks are actually cheaper than ones out of a mustang even though they are the same thing! Really weird but I've found truck coyote engines for $3-$4k. Problem is for my car there is a lot of things including a $1600 wiring harness/ECU, k member etc that have to be bought that add up and require a lot of work. Plus with the coyote engine you have to use the drive by wire gas pedal which I can't stand!

I'm considering doing a 5.4L engine with some Cobra R parts I found including the upper and lower intake. Are the 2000 cobra R parts legal in AI?

[BlueFirePony]

[QUOTE=Suck fumes;69553] Plus with the coyote engine you have to use the drive by wire gas pedal which I can't stand!
[QUOTE]

You HAVE to or it's just a PITA or $ to put a throttle cable in? Curious if there is truly no way as I have plans down this path.
As for the drive by wire itself - I prefer a mechanical pedal myself but what don't you like?
Once we got rid of the throttle lag and dead pedal (both really easy fixes) I found it was more ego than id and just became one with the electronic playground.

[Suck fumes]

If you buy a crate motor the throttle body comes standard with a drive by wire setup. I mean I'm sure you could fab something with a cable but I bet it would be difficult cause the throttle body wasn't designed for that. I've never liked them due to the lag and the fact that there is a sensor controlling my throttle input. I know you can tune some of it out but it's never the same as a cable.

[AI#97]

If you buy a crate motor the throttle body comes standard with a drive by wire setup. I mean I'm sure you could fab something with a cable but I bet it would be difficult cause the throttle body wasn't designed for that. I've never liked them due to the lag and the fact that there is a sensor controlling my throttle input. I know you can tune some of it out but it's never the same as a cable.

I honestly can't tell the difference with the drive by wire compared to my old pedal. As for a k-member, I have a factory 03 cobra K sitting in the shop from a customer I could sell you for cheap. I know how you like to win with stock stuff! ;)

Points to consider:

5.4L option...that is a LONG stroke and it doesn't really like high rpms and the block is heavy as hell. An aluminum 5.4L option is out there, but honestly, it's a ton of work and barely fits in the engine bay compared to a 4.6 4V or a coyote and you are limited to factory headers or custom LT's. Engines are open in AI except for the aftermarket aluminum dart blocks and it must match the OEM of the car.

coyote option in an SN95.... you MUST use long tubes. The factory manifolds are too wide and hit the fire wall. With longtubes you are going to need a heavy car because choking a stock coyote down to 350rwhp is difficult. With LT's it will be very difficult to NOT make 380+.....however, with the truck intake and smaller exhaust cams....that might be a good option!

A 3V crate motor or a Big Bore stroker in an aluminum block is the best mod motor AI combo in my opinion. Dr. Frank built a 324 cube 4V a few years ago and I drove it in an enduro and that motor was NICE! My big bore motor ran 7 seasons and was tough to beat. It's now living life in a nitrous drag car with a 250 shot.

Personally, I would reverse engineer the car starting with what it would weigh first, then work backwards to how much power it will need. If it needs less than 330rwhp, a mild aluminum 2V build would be my choice, maybe a nice 331 windsor. If you are going to run a sherman tank, the Ford Racing 363 crate motor is heavy, but wow did it make that east coast champ car run. (I am assuming it is still in the same configuration as when Ryan owned it.)

[Supercharged111]

350whp is the target? Just grab a 4V from a MKVIII, cams, longtubes, dyno tune and I bet you're pretty close. I just can't see the 2V making that kind of juice without spending some money, money that'd probably go pretty far toward something better.

[Suck fumes]

360/381 is the target. Not running abs.

[Supercharged111]

My friend ran about 300whp on a 2V with some 264/272 ish (advertised duration) blower cams (unsure of LSA and ICL) with a MKVIII bottom end, MHGs to lower compression between 10.5-11.0:1, tuned with longtubes and ported heads. IIRC, torque exceeded hp, and SOTP confirmed this, but again he was coming up 60whp short of your goal. If it makes you feel any better, he fucking crushed on bolt-on 4V cars up here in CO (compression FTW!) and ran as good as a 14.18 at 4700' altitude (DA unknown but he did run 12s in MO). That said, an engine builder knows more about these things than a shadetree mechanic, but from everything I've seen the PI 2V engines seem to need a good amount of help to pump out healthy numbers. That and those narrow rod journals will likely be near their limit.

[AI#97]

360/381 is the target. Not running abs.

High compression 331 with decent head and a cam from Ed Curtis. Just make sure its a boss block and zero balance it. Should last a few seasons.

[Suck fumes]

I have Kevin crocie build all my motors. He comes from a Winston cup motor building family so he's the only one I trust.

[marshall_mosty]

My zero balance 9.8:1 331 is 370/379 uncorked. It's tuned and on a throttle stop to get down to 327/349.


331
H-beam rods
Mahle pistons
80mm MAF
75mm T-body
TFS Track Heat Intake
30lb injectors
Comp Cams nitrous grind cam (can get the specs if you want)
AFR 165 street heads (out of the box)
BBK Long Tube 1 5/8" headers
X-Pipe
Flowmaster 1-chamber (2 1/2") with dumps


The only drawback to the 331 (or any pushrod motor) is RPM range. There is no reason to spin past 6,000 due to valvetrain weight.

[Suck fumes]

After much research I'm going the coyote route.

I'll be selling my fully built with all new parts CMC motor soon too in case anyone wants it.

[kbrewmr2]

area under the curve eh? ;)

[Suck fumes]

Best bang for your buck. Tired of chasing power. I just want to much for once haha

[AI#97]

Best bang for your buck. Tired of chasing power. I just want to much for once haha

I have a set of BBK swap headers new in box if you want to make an offer ($300 + shipping?). They are the chrome version. If you have any questions about the swap, feel free to ask me. It is NOT just a drop in affair like the magazines make it out to be when you are installing parts for road racing....especially the oil pan to header clearance. Late Model Restoration has a decent video series on it but they didn't go 10/10ths on the build as I did.

Oh, and DO NOT rely on the FRPP tune.....there is a hitch that kills the motors when used for what we are doing with them. I have a tuner that can remove that programming and make it last.

you will like it but plan on trans options because synchros hate shifting above 7200..... :cool:

[Suck fumes]

Yah I'm getting Lee and Scott at late model to put me together a parts list.