Need help with Stoptech drive pin kit.

[ShadowBolt]

All the Inconel washers on the drivers side rotor have sheared and I can pull the hat off the ring with my hand. Other side looks like new and I can't even see any wear. I ordered a new drive pin kit from Maximum Motorsports $67.00 (plus $17.50 shipping and handling) last Monday and they have not shipped them yet! I either need to borrow a drive pin kit and I will replace it when the one from MM come in or I need to know the size of the washer? I need the thickness, ID and OD. I have Inconel here and can make my own. In fact I will make a few sets as this could send you home unless you have extra washers. I sent Stoptech an e-mail asking why this happened but got no answer so far.


JJ

[ShadowBolt]

Thanks to Marshall I will be hooked up next week. Wish I would have ask earlier. This weekend will be wasted. I need to fix the rotor, install new front and rear pads (maybe they will come in today). Install wideband and new water temp gauge and oil pressure gauge and warning light, get back to a dyno and try and figure out why for the first time since I owned the car through three other engines that always ran around 12.8:1 it's now running 14:1 up to 4000 rpm's then 13.5:1 from 4000 to 6000. Battery will only charge to 70% so I need a new one, and I'm sure ten other things I have not found yet. Was hoping to finish it up this weekend so I'm not working on it the last weekend before the race. Well the best laid plans and all that........

JJ

[Al Fernandez]

Geez Jerry, your posts are looking more and more like Pranav's

[Pranav]

For Jerry's post to look like mine, he would have to replace the alternator then magically fry the ECU and transponder in his car, only to have some random part of the suspension breaks loose after making the repairs.

Sounds about right, major issue related to minor repair, secondary issue completely unrelated to other issues. Happens to me every half season it seems...

[mach1]

You sure those are inconel?? I used AN washers from the hardware store on mine, no issues, and they are thicker, the stop tech ones were bending and wearing quickly.

[ShadowBolt]

You sure those are inconel?? I used AN washers from the hardware store on mine, no issues, and they are thicker, the stop tech ones were bending and wearing quickly.

Supposed to be Inconel but the new ones were steel with gold zinc plating. I'm going to make some out of Inconel. If you go thicker you don't want the hat tight to the ring. What bothers me is the wear in the old ring. The new ring has a slot that goes up and down so the ring can grow when it gets hot. My old one have slop side to side also. So even though the rings look like they would last another two years I will be replacing the other side prior to Hallett.

JJ

[mach1]

Supposed to be Inconel but the new ones were steel with gold zinc plating. I'm going to make some out of Inconel. If you go thicker you don't want the hat tight to the ring. What bothers me is the wear in the old ring. The new ring has a slot that goes up and down so the ring can grow when it gets hot. My old one have slop side to side also. So even though the rings look like they would last another two years I will be replacing the other side prior to Hallett.

JJ

Yeah exactly, mine were steel with zinc plating, the spacing is determined by the pin length not the washer so it shouldn't change the spacing. My rings are the same way with wear, all wallered out, I am trying to get to the end of the year on my current rings.

[BryanL]

Jerry-do you have the 21 lb injectors now? Could the low battery not give the pump enough juice?

I checked my stoptechs and the washers are okay. It surprises me how lose the allen bolts are that leaves the ring lose on the hat. I want to check yours to compare. Also, want to look at the new ring and compare to mine.

[michaelmosty]

I looked at my "spare" rings that have 2 1/2 years on them and they have the same strange wear y'all have mentioned.

[RichardP]

What bothers me is the wear in the old ring.

Dan had the same rotor failure at TWS and I'm doing some research on possible causes.

Jerry, do you know when you bought the rotors and how much track time they had before failure? Did you look at the rotor on the other side to see if the washers were starting to fail? Do you know the part number of the replacement drive pins you installed? Did the rotor still float on the hub with the new hardware?


Thanks,
Richard P.

[ShadowBolt]

Dan had the same rotor failure at TWS and I'm doing some research on possible causes.

Jerry, do you know when you bought the rotors and how much track time they had before failure? Did you look at the rotor on the other side to see if the washers were starting to fail? Do you know the part number of the replacement drive pins you installed? Did the rotor still float on the hub with the new hardware?


Thanks,
Richard P.

Richard,

The other right) side still looks great. These would have been three years old in May 2015. I have the part number of the race hardware at home and I will send it to you. The set they sent me was a street set that tightened all the way up. The hardware that came with the ring was correct except the washer looked to be thinner and made out of cold rolled steel W/yellow zinc plating. It bothers me that the rings look like they can go another three years except for the wear in the drive pin slots. I'm thinking of having my machine shop mill them out and make some kind of insert to get the slots back to factory new size. I don't know much about milling or welding cast iron. My hats still look good and the holes are still round.



JJ

[marshall_mosty]

Making a press-fit adapter could work as long as you match the press-fit interference and the thermal expansion properties of both the rotor and the adaptor.

[ShadowBolt]

The race hardware kit part number is
89.000.0022