Brake pad callout!!

[Rsmith350]

Who's using what brake pads?!

[Supercharged111]

I use Raybestos ST43. I'm told their feel is similar to a DTC60, except these are $120 to my door and last a full season. The Hawks are good for 2 weekends and overpriced as all hell.

[Rsmith350]

Stock calipers? Kinda shocked 15 people have viewed this and only one reply.

[Casey_SS]

I've tried several and am still looking at a few more but the baseline I keep coming back to is either Porterfield R4 or Carbotech XP10 in the front with Autozone Duralast or Stoptech Sports in the rear. I'm not 100% happy with any of them (why I keep trying other stuff) but so far, they've been the least evil with my driving style and setup. Most of the others were great in one or two aspects but also did some very bad things under certain conditions.

[Fbody383]

Orange is usually Carbotech XP10 in the front / O'Reilly house brand ceramic in the rear.

I think another Orange is usually Porterfield R4 in front.

I probably need to try the R4. or the CO Boyz cheaper set.

[ShadowBolt]

I really hate to give this info to you guys but.......Cobalt are by far the best I have ever tried. I put them in prior to Hallett last year and they are only half gone after Cresson. I do not run their most agressive pads but Eric Foss told me about them and they are great. The guy you call (I don't remember his name) works with you to figure out what compound to run. We used to like PFC11's but these last longer and are not so sensitive. I'm going to get at least a full year out of the fronts and half again more out of the rears.

JJ

[mach1]

I really hate to give this info to you guys but.......Cobalt are by far the best I have ever tried. I put them in prior to Hallett last year and they are only half gone after Cresson. I do not run their most agressive pads but Eric Foss told me about them and they are great. The guy you call (I don't remember his name) works with you to figure out what compound to run. We used to like PFC11's but these last longer and are not so sensitive. I'm going to get at least a full year out of the fronts and half again more out of the rears.

JJ
What compound are you running?

[ShadowBolt]

What compound are you running?

XR2 front
XR4 rear
Total price $507.00

They make every set to order so it's takes a little while. The guys name is Andie. He likes to talk so you may be on the phone for a while.

JJ

[mach1]

XR2 front
XR4 rear
Total price $507.00

They make every set to order so it's takes a little while. The guys name is Andie. He likes to talk so you may be on the phone for a while.

JJ

Thank you sir!

[Rsmith350]

Great info guys! Thank you.

[drecords]

G-Loc R10F and "stock Ford" is written on the rear. The R10's have lasted about 4 events so far and the rear pads were on the car when I bought it from Wade.

[mach1]

I am using Carbotech XP12's up front, usually go through 2 sets a season, they are cheapish at $200 a set, XP8's in the back, they last almost 2 years.

[Suck fumes]

i have ran cobalt XR pads since 2010 and have never looked back. They made a circle track pad that was perfect for the miata for modulation and the XR pads are great for the mustang. AND they don't eat rotors like PFC's do.

[Supercharged111]

Stock calipers? Kinda shocked 15 people have viewed this and only one reply.

I run the Z06 calipers and larger C5 rotors.

[marshall_mosty]

Raybestos 47's in the front of mine. I got a smoking deal a few seasons ago for something like $160/set, so bought six sets. I'll have pads for a while.
They are a bit "bitey" for a non-ABS application, but Raebestos does make several pads with less initial bite.

[BryanL]

Stock LS1 calipers I only ever ran XP10's on front and generally azone golds on the rear. On the rear I have also run a Carbotech Bobcat or 1821 or 1521? type of compound and right now it has some Hawk HPPPlus.

[Supercharged111]

Raybestos 47's in the front of mine. I got a smoking deal a few seasons ago for something like $160/set, so bought six sets. I'll have pads for a while.
They are a bit "bitey" for a non-ABS application, but Raebestos does make several pads with less initial bite.

43 are real easy to modulate. 47 can be had for under 160 an axle as well. They also make a 41 and 45 compound that I have yet to try. I need something softer out back because I took all the bias out and still get hop if I'm too quick on the brake pedal.

[ShadowBolt]

I do not have a brake bias valve so I use pad selection to get the right front to rear bias. The XR2's in front and 4's in the rear are the best we have tried so far. I really liked the PFC01 then they stopped making it and the PFC11 was the closest thing to the 01. Eric explained to me that there was not enough modulation between nothing to locked up. I think these Cobalt's have more than twice the room (modulation) between nothing and locked. The PFC's if I remember got up to almost $400.00 for a set of fronts. I tried Carbotech's they were at a good price but in my heavy SN99 the 10's and 12's could not get over four or five weekends out of a set.

[Pranav]

XP10s in the front (swapping to G Loc GS-10 which is the exact same thing).

Parts store ceramics in the rear; I have a bias valve and leave it alone with full pressure going to the back. I only axle hop if I'm too aggressive on downshifts.

With my ducts I can get through about 2/3-3/4 of season on one pair of fronts and 1.5ish pairs of rear for a full season.

[Supercharged111]

I had 2015 rears on through 2016's season. For this first event I slapped on my 2014 leftover usable spares. Looks like I'm in the market for rears now, maybe I'll try some street race Hawks out back since I have some bucks? I definitely need softer than a DTC60 equivalent back there.

[Al Fernandez]

Carbotech xp10 fronts, xp8 rears. I run 12.2" roundy round rotors under wilwood superlight calipers. Front pads are $200 delivered, four events a set minimum. Rears last for years, don't remember how much those cost.

G-loch and carbotech are the same???

[Storm Trooper]

Wilwood super lights in the front and LS rear brakes
Pads are Hawk DTE 60s in the front, or Porterfield R4
Hawk blue pads in the rear.
My brakes last way too long, �� Not going fast enough ��

[ShadowBolt]

Wilwood super lights in the front and LS rear brakes
Pads are Hawk DTE 60s in the front, or Porterfield R4
Hawk blue pads in the rear.
My brakes last way too long, �� Not going fast enough ��

I used to run the DTE 60's on the rear and PFC11's in the front. I tried going to the R4's in the front but with the DTE 60's in the rear I looped it under braking at EGR several times during practice. I really liked the feel of the R4 (almost can't lock them up) but I would have had to go with a stock rear pad. Never tried it. If you can make the R4 work for you they are cheap. Like just $200.00 a set if I remember.

JJ

[Pranav]

G-loch and carbotech are the same???

Yeah, a bunch of Carbotech guys left and started G-LOC. If you look at their site and list of compounds its all exactly the same as the Carbotech site and the compounds are all exact replacemens.

http://www.ctbrakes.com/brake-compounds.asp#4
http://www.g-locbrakes.com/products/brake-compounds/g-loc-r10/

There was apparently a lot of drama pointed at the remaining guys running Carbotech. I still kept ordering Carbotechs, but my last two sets of pads have had issues with the friction material bulging out too much from the backing plate making them impossible to slide into the caliper without grinding the excess material off first.

I have a set of replacement G-LOC R10s going in next.

[WutApex]

I run KFPs. Never heard of them before I bought the car a couple years ago, but I really like them.

Had Raybestos ST43s on the other car and would.list as my favorite. Had a coupon for Hawk so went with DTC60s this time around.

[Al Fernandez]

Yeah, I've had that issue with carbotechs! Definitely will go with G-loc then next time.

[Pranav]

I still kept ordering Carbotechs, but my last two sets of pads have had issues with the friction material bulging out too much from the backing plate making them impossible to slide into the caliper without grinding the excess material off first.

I have a set of replacement G-LOC R10s going in next.


Yeah, I've had that issue with carbotechs! Definitely will go with G-loc then next time.

Just installed my G-LOC R10s and still had the same issue, but it wasn't as bad as the carbotechs. I took off the anti rattle/shims that sit between the caliper body and pads and they slid right in. Works for me.

[Supercharged111]

I've never bought a race pad that came with those anti-squeal shims. Seems like even if you did leave them in they'd have an adverse impact on pedal feel?

[Pranav]

I've never bought a race pad that came with those anti-squeal shims. Seems like even if you did leave them in they'd have an adverse impact on pedal feel?


No, these aren't the shims that go between the pads and the pistons. These are just locating shims/sliders that sit between the sides of the pad and the wilwood caliper body. I suppose they are there to stop the pads from wearing away at the aluminum caliper body over time. I took mine out and the G-LOCs slide right in. If I wanted to keep the shims I would have to grind/file the edges of the pads for them to slide in.