what would you do?

[Al Fernandez]

I've got a 2015 GT Mustang that burns oil. Its got 42k and has been burning 1q/1,000miles since somewhere around 20k miles. Since its got 42k miles, it is still under warranty. According to Ford, they'd need to validate it does in fact burn oil by doing an oil change, applying seals in the right places, and then measuring for a few thousand miles. They haven't said once the burn rate is proven if they'd replace the engine, repair in place, or simply tell me that is within acceptable values have a nice day.

SO...

Would you have the dealer perform the test and see what Ford warranty folks offer or ditch the car before there's permanent record of its situation?

[Supercharged111]

Slap a bowtie on it, then it'll be GTG. Is 1qt/1000mi Ford's threshold? I know I've heard of that being the case on GM's AFM V8s. Does your car have any of that bullshit? I just unplugged the MAP sensor on the brake booster for the wife's Envoy to disable AFM and it quit chugging oil overnight. Hell we dragged a camper through the mountains for 4 days and it may have burned half a quart. The correct fix is to disable it in the tune and mechanically eliminate it. If it's something like that on your Mustang, you could just wipe it out in the tune. How much longer is that warranty good for? Tunes are sometimes detectable and warranty killers.

[mach1]

How much boost, 20psi? hah

I dont think it has AFM.

I would set expectations before they do their thing, in writing find the tolerance, make it clear that if it exceeds that then you will get a new motor etc before they dig into it.

My GTI used 1/8qt after 5000miles running 20+ psi of boost making 150hp/L

[Wade]

Absolutely fix it under warranty.

[Rob Liebbe]

My old 5.4 and 4.6 modular Ford motors would burn 1qt/1000 miles. But that was after about 120,000 miles. I'd be pissed if anything with that kind of mileage had that level of oil burn rate. It's probably due to your open exhaust. :)

[Pranav]

Do they apply a tamper proof seal to the dipstick?


If not, go along with it and suck an extra quart or two out through the dipstick down the street from the dealer right before the first check up.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_390306_390306?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Fuel%20Transfer%20%2B%20Lubrication%20% 3E%20Oil%20Extractors&utm_campaign=LiquiVac&utm_content=33226

If they do apply a seal to the dipstick, well you're the series director; just replace it with the same seal you use on our CMC cars.

Bam new engine.

I don't think dealerships bother with rebuilding engines in-store any more.

[Supercharged111]

If they do put a seal on it, take the sucker to the track and put 1000 miles on it. I'm sure you'd burn a quart there.

[AI#97]

Get rid of the PCV system and just vent to atmosphere. My coyote drank oil even though a .020" orifice in the PCV system. went to a regular breather like the 1960's and ZERO oil usage.

[Al Fernandez]

lol you guys are funny
No way of knowing at this point if they would fix anything or just call it "within tolerance". If it's the pcv I should see oil in the intake by removing the throttle body or using a scope right?

[Suck fumes]

yep. just pull throttle body and shine a flashlight in there.

[Fbody383]

lol you guys are funny
No way of knowing at this point if they would fix anything or just call it "within tolerance". If it's the pcv I should see oil in the intake by removing the throttle body or using a scope right? Make them provide the tolerances in writing ahead of time with the various levels of resolution INCLUDING a worsening condition that has clearly been identified. If they won't put it in writing, call Ford investor relations and make some noise. Odd are you'll end up in the C-suite resolution channel which helps move the dealership along.

[AI#97]

MANY of the new consumption tolerances are 1/2 and full quarts every 1000 miles or so. the 5/20 and 0/20 oils burn off like mad. even the 0/40 in our SRT engines drains like friggin' water when cold. Also, my intake on the race engine was dry as a bone with only a mild residue. Never did figure it out completely but I sort of copied the Rehegan racing setup and the problem went completely away....yet I still found raw oil in the breather catch can when I pulled the motor. Nearly 1/3 quart. weird.

[Supercharged111]

0W is supposed to be thin when cold, that's the point. Just like any oil being like water when warm. The perfect oil would maintain the same viscosity regardless of temperature. Also, synthetics flow better than dyno oils which can make them appear to be thinner than they really are.