Cobra Caliper front brake pads

[drecords]

Anybody have a new set of front pads they'd be interested in parting with? Screwed up and forgot to order more GLocs and it's usually a few weeks. Looking for something to get me through Sunday. Currently running either Gloc R12's or PFC01'S, but I'll take anything thatll withstand race temps...

[ShadowBolt]

Anybody have a new set of front pads they'd be interested in parting with? Screwed up and forgot to order more GLocs and it's usually a few weeks. Looking for something to get me through Sunday. Currently running either Gloc R12's or PFC01'S, but I'll take anything thatll withstand race temps...

Call Andie at Cobalt and get a set of XR2's. These are the best pads I have ever used. Ask Kevin or Aaron. Great pad. I just bought a set of XR2's for the Stoptechs and they are just $314.00 and a set of XR4's $188.00 for the stock Cobra rears.


JJ

[t500hps]

Call/ask for Mike jr at Carbotech (same as Gloc....long story). I used to run the PBR caliper and they always kept XP 10-12's in stock.


Tell him Russ Carter told you to call him direct. He should be able to take care of you.

[drecords]

Thanks all...looks like Craig has a set that will get me through it. Good to know on the Carbotech and Cobalt pads...will probably order a set and give them a shot. The GLOCS/Carbotech have been my favorite so far because they are so easy to modulate...makes braking easier for a hack like me. :D

[mach1]

Thanks all...looks like Craig has a set that will get me through it. Good to know on the Carbotech and Cobalt pads...will probably order a set and give them a shot. The GLOCS/Carbotech have been my favorite so far because they are so easy to modulate...makes braking easier for a hack like me. :D

Used to run carbotechs, cobalts are the shit, you won’t be disappointed, thanks Jerry!

[Pranav]

What would be a good cobalt replacement for the XP/GS 10s?

If anyone has some used ones for the stoptechs i'd like to try them out some time.

[RichardP]

Just a public service reminder from your nerdy NASA engineer: Many of these different race pad compounds leave a deposit of material on the rotor. The pads often won't even work well until they have been pushed hard enough and heated up enough to leave this deposit. It's not uncommon for different pad materials to not be compatible with each other. Swapping different compounds around can lead to some really crappy braking.

I bought my Stoptech's used. Whatever pads were used before I got them most certainly were not compatible with the Porterfield R4 pads that I use. As the different deposits unevenly wore off/mixed/deposited, I got brake shudder that bounced the steering wheel out of my hands under heavy braking. Turning or replacing the rotors is the only solution. Turning slotted or drilled floating rotors is logistically challenging...


Richard P.

[Pranav]

Yeah I'm familiar with the concept of pad deposits on rotors, but I figured my XP10s were abrasive enough to make quick work of whatever my used stoptechs had on them.

[drecords]

Just a public service reminder from your nerdy NASA engineer: Many of these different race pad compounds leave a deposit of material on the rotor. The pads often won't even work well until they have been pushed hard enough and heated up enough to leave this deposit. It's not uncommon for different pad materials to not be compatible with each other. Swapping different compounds around can lead to some really crappy braking.

I bought my Stoptech's used. Whatever pads were used before I got them most certainly were not compatible with the Porterfield R4 pads that I use. As the different deposits unevenly wore off/mixed/deposited, I got brake shudder that bounced the steering wheel out of my hands under heavy braking. Turning or replacing the rotors is the only solution. Turning slotted or drilled floating rotors is logistically challenging...


Richard P.

I do wire brush the rotors before installing different compounds with some brakleen liberally sprayed while wire brushing. Usually get some slight pad judder when they're bedding in but it goes away afer a few good stops.

[Pranav]

Just following up, my g loc 10s are almost done and curious about the cobalt xr2s.

Anyone done a comparison between these compounds and have a half worn set I can bum off them to try?

[ShadowBolt]

Just following up, my g loc 10s are almost done and curious about the cobalt xr2s.

Anyone done a comparison between these compounds and have a half worn set I can bum off them to try?

I have at least two sets with 1/8" to 3/16" left on them. You are welcome to them at COTA or even before that if you want to try them.


JJ

[ShadowBolt]

Just a public service reminder from your nerdy NASA engineer: Many of these different race pad compounds leave a deposit of material on the rotor. The pads often won't even work well until they have been pushed hard enough and heated up enough to leave this deposit. It's not uncommon for different pad materials to not be compatible with each other. Swapping different compounds around can lead to some really crappy braking.

I bought my Stoptech's used. Whatever pads were used before I got them most certainly were not compatible with the Porterfield R4 pads that I use. As the different deposits unevenly wore off/mixed/deposited, I got brake shudder that bounced the steering wheel out of my hands under heavy braking. Turning or replacing the rotors is the only solution. Turning slotted or drilled floating rotors is logistically challenging...


Richard P.

Your issue Richard is the R4 is not a very aggressive pad and has trouble removing the old transfer layer.


JJ