More Painless questions

I ordered $830.00 worth of wiring and switch/circut breaker panel yesterday that will be delivered today (from Jegs) and I wondered if there is anything I should know about the install? Not counting the part about being stupid and spending over eight hundred dollars that I will never get back out of the car. I just could see losing a weekend (or worse the whole car) from the total BS wiring laying all over CMC17.

Why do they call their company Painless? It will not be painless for me when the wife gets the credit card bill.

JJ

Jerry, the engine harness really is plug and play.

The wires are well labeled and routed/loomed just OK. I personally cut all the wire ties and reloomed it to fit my application. Just an FYI.

I was tempted to do as you did and purchase the Painless or Longacre switch panels. But a very wise man explained to me that if something happened on saturday afternoon or sunday morning, what were the chances of getting a new Painless/Longacre switch to replace it?

I opted for all, off the shelf parts from O'Reilly's for the "body harness" for just that scenario.

One thing I did learn is to use weather pack connectors so that you create "modules". If I had my gauge cluster on a weatherpack connector, I could remove the gauge cluster and have a nice, big access hole to the back side of my dash. Lesson learned.

Thanks for the info Mitch but I don't understand this statemant

"I opted for all, off the shelf parts from O'Reilly's for the "body harness" for just that scenario."

You mean just the switches and fuses or the harness for inside the body itself?


JJ

Switches, fused bus bars, relays ... all the hard parts. I bought a $15 assortment of wire on spools at Harbor Freight to run the necessary wires. I wish I could find that same deal once again.

I only have 5 wires running from the dash to the rear of the car ...

Fuel pump signal from the ECM
Fuel level indication
brake lights
cool suit pump
battery cable

They all run in a single, protected loom down the passenger side of the car. Any splices that were necessary, I have marked where they are located in the loom. I wasted a lot of wire making sure splices were minimized.

Jerry, myself and Mitch wired my car, Mitch's car, and Steve's car from a few assorted spools of wire. each has a painless engine harness. everything else we bought from the local parts store (switches and fuse panals) and 2 $15 racks of spooled wire did all 3 cars. there are zero factory wires in all 3 of those cars.
the engine harness nees power for the computer, power for the coil, and power for the injectors. and grounds for each. the comp gets a constant 12v from the battery, the others are switched.
the gages and their sensors were wired to the dash and to switches to power them. the starter just needs 12v from the battery and a switched 12v from the "start" switch to the solinoid.
12v to the fuel pump switched. brake lights are switched from the switch on the peddal assembly.

Thanks!