Is there a rookie guide to the dyno thing? Car may not be race ready but should be able to get on a dyno by mid/late Jan.
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Is there a rookie guide to the dyno thing? Car may not be race ready but should be able to get on a dyno by mid/late Jan.
Dyno the car in the EXACT configuration you plan to race it in - meaning, once it's dyno'd, you CANNOT change ANYTHING that may change your HP/TQ numbers. No timing changes, no tune up, no change to the TPS, no change to fuel pressure...etc. Any change that could effect HP/TQ #'s will require a recert.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
30psi in the tires, 3 pulls. For AI, the highest numbers are the numbers you race off of. For CMC, it's an average of the 3 pulls. Pull #1 with water temps @ 185^, pull #2 @ 195^, pull #3 @ 205^.
In CMC, break the limit by 1HP - add 10lbs to your minimum race weight. 1hp and 1tq - add 20lbs, and so on.
It's not required to have a NASA or Series official present at your annual dyno cert, but it never hurts. If your hood is sealed after a race weekend, then a NASA or Series official is REQUIRED to be present to verify the hood seals, and certify your dyno runs.
While it's a good idea to make sure you are still within limits, nothing in the rules say it's a requirement to re-cert.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Ginsberg
While it's a good idea to make sure you are still within limits, nothing in the rules say it's a requirement to re-cert.[/quote]Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchntx
So if I find Eric's old dyno papers (I found all but the last one) I don't have to do it again? I have changed a lot on the car but nothing that would change HP or TQ.
JJ
Thanks Adam.
Am I right that this is really just the HP/TQ part of the question that then establishes minimum weight? I'm more comfortable that the car will be at least running but not in complete race trim.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Ginsberg
Rats, I might have to order tires sooner than I thought. If the car is dyno-ed with tires other than the RA-1 tires, what's the ruling?Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Ginsberg
Richard P., any good dyno shops in the Clear Lake/Hobby/Friendswood/Pearland area?
No ... that's not what I responded to ... Adam stated changes after an annual cert REQUIRED recert. That's not the case ... it's a good idea, but still, not a requirement.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
All cars are required to visit the dyno annually.
David, I would get the car 100% ready to race and THEN dyno cert it. JMHO.Quote:
7.7.3 Inspection and Testing
All CMC cars are required to have an Annual Inspection as outlined in the NASA CCR. In addition to the Annual Inspection the car must also complete a dynamometer inspection on an approved DynoJet brand dynamometer. The dynamometer inspection must be completed no sooner than conclusion of the last CMC event of the previous season and no later than the first CMC event of the new season the car competes in.
I am sure you can find a dyno as I think PSI has one and I know they are on the south part of Houston. I know that BHS (Bavarion Hyper Speed)sp? has an in ground dyno, but he is on the NW side of Houston off 249 and 1960 area(Mills Road and Ann).Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
Glenn organized a dyno day at Speedtek and it worked out well. They kept the charge at 50 even though we did more than 3 pulls and did some messing around with some of the cars.
Renting the dyno at SimpleQuick is also a great idea. I wanted to stop by and talk to them soon anyway.
Just ready for the plates and I would be up for a dyno.
Fair enough Mitch; I may have to use one of those "new car" fun run exemptions in February.Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchntx
Thanks; those guys are pretty close... I can get over the ford product focus. :shock:Quote:
Originally Posted by silversvo
Personally, I would suggest the RA1's...they are Much heavier than a typical street tire which will keep the HP #'s down a little...also, run full treads if you can! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
Also, since it's an f-body...be sure that they don't put the axle strap over the ebrake cables and cause the rear brakes to drag...seen that happen a few times on street cars on the dyno before....course, you probably don't have an ebrake any more! :lol: