You're pretty much the poster child of why I want a check engine light.
I think your last motor blew due to a lean condition?
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You're pretty much the poster child of why I want a check engine light.
I think your last motor blew due to a lean condition?
Even though we turn off the master after every time we get out of the car the CEL is back on in two laps. It will be nice to know if the light comes on something is wrong.
JJ
You guys are freaking me out, maybe I should wire up a CEL on my junk
You don't have an ignition switch? My master stays on over an entire weekend and I just kill the ECM/ignition with a dedicated switch. ECM keeps its code/memory, but more importantly the fuel trim/idle/whatever variables it learns over time. Everything gets wiped when I kill the master switch, for storage or emergencies.
2 more options worth mentioning:
1. Swap to an OBD1 computer (plugs right in, no issue), buy or build a cable (aldlcable.com) and use TunerCat software to make the changes. You just flash the OBD1 pcm with a factory 1995 tune and disable the emissions and VATS stuff. TunerCat is free to use for 30 days, you just have to pay $19 to download the $EE definition file required for it to speak LT1 F-body. This is the path I took on my car. I have a factory 1995 OBD1 tune I can email you or you can also find a copy online if you dig around a bit. http://www.tunercat.com/
2. Purchase the OBDII version of TunerCat, which was sold to Jet and re-branded as Jet Dynamic Spectrum Tuner. They were charging over $400 when I first started looking at tuning software...not sure what it costs now, their website doesn't say. www.jetchip.com
For the kind of stuff you're talking about doing, it's literally just un-checking a couple of boxes in the software. If you go the OBD1 route I can send you a screenshot of what to do...it's a piece of cake.