Sound deadener

There is a sweet spot where the heat will soften the glue and it will just peal back in very long in tact strips.
Instead of a wire wheel, I've had much better luck and life from the fiber bristle wheels. Of all places, Harbor Frieght has them in 3 different grits and they hold up well. They also strip faster than the wire wheels when cutting thru paint and primer to prep for welding. The OEM uses a zinc dip bath as the primer. It is really hard to get off. The fiber wheels are the best at cutting thru it.

Also, too much speed will melt the fiber wheels. You will see a smear like deposite being left on the metal. Increase the load on the wheel or slow your wheel some.

I just finished the sound deadener on the red car today. Torch to perfection, scrape with putty knife getting as much off as possible, vaccum debris, spray/soak with mineral spirits for a few minutes, wipe up excess mineral spirits with rag, hit with wire wheel on the drill, wipe clean with a towel. Soaking with mineral spirits helped soften the residue and made for much easier removal. The car is off to the cage builder tomorrow, but may need a side trip to a media blaster as it came from up north, Indiana, and I may have underestimated the amount of rust underneath. I really hate working on a rusty car.

Dry ice definitely works on some cars. Every manufacturer probably uses something slightly different, so what works on one car won't work on another.

I used it on the 240sx we're building for LeMons. Break the ice up, spread it around on the sound deadener, cover it with a piece of cardboard, set some weight on it (a couple hammers is what I used), and wait 10 minutes. Clear all the ice off, and smack it with a hammer. The stuff popped right off. I'd guess we removed close to 20 lbs from that car, judging from the weight of the trash bag we tossed it all in.