I just signed up and planning to kick your (Glenn's) ass!
Bring it.
JJ
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I just signed up and planning to kick your (Glenn's) ass!
Bring it.
JJ
Cool. Go for it!Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
3 AI cars...(me, Eddie, and Casey).
Where are the CMC guys? Wayne, Jerry, Jeff Tilton, and Glenn are on the list. I think that brings us up to 17 for the group.
So... status on:
Liebbe, Love x2, Boudy, Warren, Lyons, Reuth, Penny, Hood, Gunter, Neary, Leinart, Mulder, Hughes, Runyon, Dawdy, F. Robertson, Calder??
ROOKIES!!!!!
Where are the Rookies????
WOOHOO!! Now I am happy.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
Cool. Me too.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
;)
Greg Hughs called me from the dyno today.
What happened to Donovan? I thought he was planning to run this year...Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeP99Z
Maybe for TWS. He's out for this event.
Talking to me?Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeP99Z
Jason will be there in the AIX #3...Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeP99Z
Kicking your ass, yes. TWS comment was regarding Mr. Donovan.Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennCMC70
Cool. Up to 18!Quote:
Originally Posted by David Love AI27
Thunder Race Group
8 American Iron Michael Patterson McKinney TX Chevy Camaro 1999 Alamo Autosports / Motul / AST
11 CMC Michael Mosty Richardson TX Ford Mustang Coupe 1989 Bell Racing
21 American Iron Edward Rock Killeen TX Ford Mustang GT 1996 Rock Racing
22 CMC Cody Powell Castle Rock CO Chevy Camaro 2000 The Camaro Brothers
28 CMC James Proctor Paris TX Chevrolet Camaro - Z28 1993 Tire City - Paris\ Texas
29 American Iron Casey Holdway Cedar Park TX Chevrolet Camaro SS 1997 ToolBreaker Racing
32 CMC Gary Robertson Richmond TX Chevrolet Camaro Z28 1986 Witchdoctor Motorsports
34 CMC Team WWR Bryan TX Ford Mustang 1986 Caffe Capri
35 CMC Jeff Tilton Cypress TX Ford Mustang 1995
39 CMC David Francis Pearland TX Chevrolet Camaro 1994 Orange Is Fast!
55 CMC Jerry Jordan Georgetown TX Ford Mustang 2002
69 CMC Joe Bogetich Arvada CO Chevrolet Camaro 2000 Bogie Motorsports
70 CMC Glenn Landrum Fort Worth TX Chevrolet Camaro 1995 Moonlite Printing & Graphics\ Pi-CoFab\ Natwel Weld Supply
77 CMC Randy English Spring TX Chevrolet Camaro 2000
82 CMC Daniel Allford Houston TX Chevrolet Camero 1993 ARC Specialties
85 CMC Wayne Stehle Houston TX Chevrolet Camaro 1998
913 CMC Derek Wright Hampshire IL Chevrolet Camaro 1998
My motor went pop... Shooting for Hallett with the old shortblock... Shot a big freaking hole in my budget...Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeP99Z
I know the feeling.Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall_mosty
I'm assuming the following for AI in Texas:
Mosty - blown motor, new old one going in
Calder - out for now, crash damage repair
Dulaney - blown motor, in search of new one
Robertson - blown motor, new one going in.
Neary - blown motor, new one unknown.
Lyons - ?
Donovan - potential for TWS
Love - ?
Is there a trend??? And to think they were wanting to lower the Weight/HP ratio... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeP99Z
Not an issue when money is no object.Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall_mosty
no time to dynoQuote:
Originally Posted by MikeP99Z
I will officially not make Cresson. There simply are not enough hours in the day for me to get the car race ready with a properly prepped engine. Too busy at work (not complaining). I will either be at TWS ready to kick ass, or I will set all of this shit on fire. That is all. FMR
I'll be headed up Friday night for my first stint in tech, if y'all need me to bring anything holler. Y'all wish me luck!
I'll give you $100 and come pick it up before you torch it. Bring the hooch and the stories to TWS.Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra132
I'm hoping there is a dyno we can use at MSRC or I will be in the same boat. That is assuming I can get it all back together by race weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by David Love AI27
Come on Dr. Frank. You can do it if you want. I work from 7:00 AM to 4:30 PM at my job then from 5:00 PM to 10:00 PM on the car every night. Plus we have this weekend.............
JJ
Just added one more Rocky Mountain fellow..... Ryan Rahjes. Ya'll need to keep this in mind when summer rolls around and they are asking you to visit. 90 degree temps are typical at High Plains in August.
I'm sure we (AI) will vote to wave your dyno cert for this event if it will raise car count. Right now we're looking at a whopping $40 for first...Quote:
Originally Posted by David Love AI27
Edit: Frank, push your car into the trailer...we will help put it together Friday. :D
It would be nice to spend the summer somewhere nice and cool. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by nasa-rm
If I can pick up my engine today from the machine shop, I might make it. I'm only thinking it's a 20% chance.
If they're not done today, there's no way I'd have time.
You run an LS or LT? What shop are you using? What was wrong with the motor or any info. on it prior to going boom?
LS
Richard's Machine shop in Euless
What's wrong....still trying to figure that out. At MSR-H, on lap one, my oil pressure suddenly dropped to zero, and the motor locked up before I could pull off. The engine had a light-rebuild, and only had about 5 hours of dyno time on it.
After I took apart the engine, rod bearing #4 had spun, and 1-6 were heavily scored. The oil-pump (previously new) had zero signs of wear, and had no contaminates in it. The oil pan was full of bearing shavings, and the pump pickup screen had shavings on it, but none made it into the pump. I didn't find shavings anywhere on the top end. I keep forgetting to cut apart my oil filter to examine it.
So, I'm not sure if low oil pressure lead to the rod bearing failure, or if the bearings killed the oil pressure. If not the bearings fault, I'm not sure what to blame.
My crank was warped, and is being replaced with a used unit. The block is currently being line-bored (I hope).
Quote:
Originally Posted by fulcrumaero
When the pickup tube was pulled off the oil pump during the "light rebuild", the o-ring that seals the tube to the pump was either left out or was damaged during the reinsertion.
At some point, you began cavitating the pump without a proper seal.
I put a new o-ring on it, and I doubt I screwed up such a simple thing.
I appreciate your thoughts though.
Did you use ARP Rod bolts? Their instructions say you need to resize the rod ends after torquing them to spec. I have read of similar failures to yours when skipping this step and I have read about guys having no problems when skipping this step. Not saying this is what happened just throwing it out there, also this doesn't explain the lack of shavings anywhere other than the pan?Quote:
Originally Posted by fulcrumaero
We have been using katech rod bolts specifically because they don't require this step.
Good luck with your motor, I hope you make it to Cresson
Yes, I did use APR rod bolts, as was suggested by a couple of people. I did not know that the rods should be resized, since they install from the cap side. My machinist also believes this to be the cause. Great info for the future, thanks!
Block was not ready yesterday...boo
they have some pro 5.0 build that's more important. It's not Richards fault per say. He had to sub contract the line-bore, as he's unable to do it for aluminum blocks (weird).
I'll still swing by on Saturday for a bit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fulcrumaero
Might surprise you how easy it is to do and how many times it happens.
Very common occurence with results just as you describe ... fine for a while then catastrophic loss of oiling. 5 & 6 carry the brunt of the damage because they are last to get oiled.
Cody, what hours will you have the table set up for autographs and photos? I want to beat the crowds and get my February issue of Grassroots Motorsports magazine signed. :D
I just might make it...
Question for you guys - how do you break in a motor in a car that can't be driven on the street.
I picked up the block last night, assembled it, and got it in the car. Still a lot to do.
I idle it for a few minutes, check oil pressure and water temp, then I back it out of the trailer, put it in 1st, rev it up, sidestep the clutch and hope for the best.Quote:
Originally Posted by fulcrumaero
Hope that helps.
I was hoping someone with a lot more engine knowledge than me would say that! lol Warm it up and put it on the pole.
I suppose you could chock the front wheels and put the rear end on jack stands and slowly go up thru the gears. I've done this on cold cold dyno days to warm up the trans and diff before going WOT. Maybe drag the brakes to put some load on the engine.
Might be overkill but here's what I would do:
1. Start engine and check for leaks, good oil pressure, etc.
2. Bring it up to ~2000rpm and hold it there for a few minutes after the temp stabilizes. The idea is to heat cycle the valve springs before they see race conditions.
3. Change oil
4. In first practice session, repeatedly run it up to 5k or so, let off and coast down to 3k. The idea is to make sure the rings are fully seated....shouldn't take much with modern rings.
5. Go race and hope for the best.
Sweet! That would be 4. Any one else? DL, wanna switch to AI??Quote:
Originally Posted by fulcrumaero