I need a set of rain tires anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by AI#97
Yeah, I was contemplating using some "dyno wheels" off Ebay... heh, heh, heh... now I'll be the first guy to have the lugnuts sealed.
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I need a set of rain tires anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by AI#97
Yeah, I was contemplating using some "dyno wheels" off Ebay... heh, heh, heh... now I'll be the first guy to have the lugnuts sealed.
huh? what the......? e-brake on a race car? what is that? :shock:Quote:
Originally Posted by AI#97
I still have mine! And it's the only thing that kept me out of the tire wall at Cresson going into little bend when I had that brake line cut in 06....trust me, I was pullin' HARD on that mofo!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by y5e06
while SpeedTech in Haltom City is a good place and a nice dyno........
but, it seems to have problems alot. also the last few times i was in there i got the feeling i was putting them out. i have since switched to Simple Qwik Racing (SQR) in Benbrook. they are off of Winscott Rd just north of I-20. they also have an in ground dyno. it seems to be a nice set-up. if you guys want to all pile up on the same day, we can look into a full dyno day rental. this could work out to be cheaper than $50 per person if we get enough cars, or we could just pin them down to a set price.
this dyno is also used by alot of Spec Miata cars in the local area.
PS - all the 4th gen cars that are available will be needed for some special testing for CMC-2 data collection. this is for LT1 and LS1 cars. please make yourself available for this event. LAW will be dyno'ing 3 cars of ours plus the #8 of Mulder and the #28 of Proctor (hopefully). if Francis is coming to the banquet, it would be nice of him to bring the car.
as for the cert, re-cert thing.
all cars must certify between end of one season and the start of the next.
you should recertify the car if you change anything on the engine - spark plugs, wires, sensors...... anything that could allow the motor to make more power. but this line of thinking could be applied to rear gear changes, full tread tires vs corded tires...... you get the point. the last dyno cert you declair will be the official dyno. so, if you make any changes/repairs and later you are sealed and dyno'ed for whatever reason and you are found to not be in compliance...... tuff shit! its your risk to take. more than likely things will be fine and most cars will not make more power from a simple mid year plug change, but is the cost of a dyno worth a season waisted? dont think it will happen to you? ask me about my 2005 post season dyno check. the result was a loss of ROY and 2nd in season points. later is was learned it was all due to a faulty dyno that was the result of poor mait. infact, there were most likely more people who were not in compliance but were just luck they didnt have to get checked.
point is, its your risk. be as carefull as you feel you need to. but also know this - ifor example if your annual cert has a 33mm restrictor on it and you show up w/ a 34mm plate, bet your ass your going to the dyno w/ a sealed hood. if i'm not clear enough on this w/ ANY of you, call me and we will talk about it.
214-869-9603.
If you dyno on 1 Jan 2008 in a particular config, then perform a tune up to the car on 15 Jan 2008, you will have to redyno the car after the tune up.Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchntx
and this is a rule in print where?Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Ginsberg
Do you have a date for sure already? I would definitely like to make it on a dyno day.Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennCMC70
This got me thinking...
If your annual dyno is below the allowed 230/300, say 190hp, and you later change plugs wires and items that are not specifically allowed (timing, jets, fuel pressure), Adam is saying you MUST redyno.
If you choose not to (say because you think believe you maybe gained 20hp at most) and get your hood sealed, I thought that as long as it redynod within the allowed limits it's all good? Do the results have to be within "+ / - one-half of the last specified decimal place"?
I was gonna cannonball up without the car so nobody can get any sneak peeks... I'm open to dragging the car up, assuming it's ready by then - the more notice the better.Quote:
Originally Posted by AllZWay
:lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alien
The rules say WHEN you need to dyno ... between the last race and the next year's first race. That's it.
After that, you assume all risk of being over HP/TQ IF you make changes.
If your hood is sealed and sent to the dyno, it has to meet the HP/TQ numbers for the weight you came off track with, not necessarily the numbers you declare at the beginning of the season.
As a season progresses, motors get sicker and HP/TQ goes down. Changes to compensate are allowed and if you chose NOT to redyno, that is the competitor's call. It's also the competitor's risk.
Again, I'm not saying, "No, don't dyno." I AM saying it's a good idea to do so. Proclaiming it as a requirement is just not true.