If it was unopened cans in the cooler it was just for thermal mass, and therefore allowed.Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall_mosty
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If it was unopened cans in the cooler it was just for thermal mass, and therefore allowed.Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall_mosty
Ah yes, we really should plan an AI/CMC trip to the Mountain
http://www.motorsportretro.com/2012/04/ford-xy-gtho/
That would be spectacular. I'll see your video and raise you another one :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Trublu
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJCE-0CnoVA
And another...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zR6PXvhXTj0
LOL! Sort of reminds me of the full field inverts that used to happen in 06-07.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trublu
I really want to drive that track someday in something with some balls....not a micro rental car!
Well, Saturday night/Sunday morning actually, needed to put together some Sunday lunch...
Work friend sold me on a Traeger pellet smoker. Couple batches of ribs have been excellent but needed to get a brisket done. I used their brand dry rub and let it sit in the fridge about 8 hours.
Let it smoke/180 degrees-ish with a quick spray on the hour for the first three and a bowl of water in the smoker for some moistsure. Used a 1/2 apple juice, 1/2 apple cider vinegar and a little worse-ta-shista-shire combo in a spray bottle. Checked on pellets, progress, and a little spritz around 4:00am and all looked good. Got up around 7:00 expecting temp to be 175-180 and need a couple more hours. Nope. 205ish... little more than I wanted that early but no choice to pull it off.
Wrapped in foil and let it sit for about 40 minutes. On second thought I won't slice the next one until we're ready to eat, but hey, live and learn. Wrapped up tight in foil and into the warming drawer in the oven.
My mom brought green beans and the Brother in law/sis in law brought the potatoes - could cut it with a fork and we all ate it without sauce.
So who's got a brisket rub they really like?
I think the worcestershire sauce was the flavor I could do without, and too much chunky garlic in the rub.
To your question:Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
I use a rub I make that is basically a typical 11 season mix with paprika, cumin, garlic, cinnamon and so forth - same rub for beef and pork though depending on the audience I might spice it up more on the brisket or add a more fruity finish for the pork.
For a great off-the-shelf pork or steak rub, I really like John Henries Pecan rub....yummm.
Now for all the other stuff I know you were just jonesing to ask ;)
One key to good brisket (same for all cooking I guess) is prep.
Look for a brisket with good marbling and probably more fat than you think should be there. A good meat will always out perform a poor meat no matter how much seasoning, sauce and magic you throw at it.
And it does not mean you have to buy a $50 brisket. My best brisket has come from our yearly cow, but I've found excellent packers at Sam's for around $35 and flats for under $2.25/lb. I check out the product at our local stores regularly (Sams, Krogers, etc.) and when I find a good selection I fill up my freezer.
When you prep the brisket leave about a 1/4 inch of fat on the bottom but trim everything else. A good marbled brisket will just cook beautifully even with just salt and pepper.
If you are cooking a whole packer, you may want to inject the flat - when I do a whole I use a beef broth with a little ground (fine) garlic...let sit at least 4 hours or overnight if you can.
If you are just cooking a flat, skip the injection and go straight to rub. For the last year or so I've been usually cutting the tip off the packer and cooking it separately from the flat. Seems to make managing the cook easier.
The rub is intended to help create a bark that will aid in keeping moisture in and render the fat evenly. It will of course aid in the flavor profile as well so that's where various ingredients come in.
I lather the brisket with mayonnaise or spread butter (I use mustard on the pork) and then sprinkle the meat heavily with the rub. The combo of the rub and spread make for a nice thick bark and help keep the first 1/8 of the meat from drying out too fast.
Depending on schedule, I get a fire-side temp of 300-325 and the other end 200-220.
For the smoke we use a mix of hickory and plum. Probably the best subtle smoke mix there is. I know there is all sorts of people with conviction that say mesquite is the best or oak but I find them too overpowering. For the fruit you can't go wrong with pecan or cherry. I've also experimented with orange, peach and other fruits.
We also use a good lump charcoal to keep a stable temp (we also have ceramic bricks wrapped in tinfoil lining the bottom of the smoker).
Make sure the wood is good and dry and ideally no bark. Freshly cut wood will contribute to the creation of creosote and so too will moisture trapped between the wood bulk and bark. Even if your wood is "good" you can create creosote with improper airflow for the fuel being consumed. A light thin smoke is what you are after (with a blue tinge) vs a heavy dark (white, yellow) smoke.
Ribs go on the low side, tip on the high and the flat in the middle - yardbirds, links and ABTs in the middle as well.
When spritzing I use is either 3/4 apple or 3/4 white grape juice, a smidge of soy sauce and the rest cooking oil.
Flat gets wrapped at the 4 hour mark, tip at the 6 or when it hits around 160-170 internal. After that you are not getting any more penetration from the smoke and the meat is basically steaming itself internally giving off a lot of the yummy internal juice (this is known as "the stall")
It's time to work the inside and get all that fat rendered - this is the next chance for you to adjust the flavor profile.
At this point I mop the brisket with our plum chipotle and wrap tightly...double wrap (make sure second layer is definitely shiny side in) and put fat side up so that the juices run down.
Shooting for an internal temp of 220F at max so look to pull the brisket at 200.
At this point you can again nudge the flavor profile.
Since all the "kick" in our plum chipotle will have been cooked out of the mopping while the brisket was cooking wrapped, I mop again now.
Then wrap with tinfoil and pack in cooler wrapped with towels - it will continue to cook and be oh so good.
I usually have a section of the brisket that I leave wrapped in the smoker for an extra couple hours for the "cook's" cut - aka moist cut. Its what the folks get that hang around drinking beer with the cook - its like candy :)
Ribs go either 3-2-1 or 2-2-1 depending on if I am lazy or trimmed for baby backs. Same concept for the ribs on the mop when wrapping - then mop again for the last hour they are unwrapped - remember to let the ribs sit for 20 minutes or so before serving to let them firm up...they will fall off the bone and some like that, but I call that pulled pork, not ribs :)
Thank you, sir. Knowledge base enhanced. The couple slabs of 3-2-1 ribs I have done have been pretty darn tasty.
Got my car running today. All seems well. Looking to do a open track day to get some rjn time on the motor. Then I should be ready for TWS.
Glad to hear it! Yeah I really like the 3-2-1 (ala St Louis style cut) approach I seem to get more consistency but maybe it's just that there is more time to fix mistakes on the cook :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
Nowadays I really only use 2-2-1 if I am doing a whole mess of ribs or are really pressed for cook time - plus there is whole trimming exercise getting to baby backs and I am a lazy cook.
Now I just need to find a good source of plum for the fall...just about out of the wood we cut from our trees....I can find pretty much everything else around here but plum.
Pulled down my 2nd 70 hour week in a row.
Oddly enough I find comfort in knowing I haven't touched/seen my car since Hallett.
Planning on heading to the shop to finish the brake upgrade on the trailer. Also, depending on timing, will start cutting AI #67 apart for the decoupled 3-link. The torque arm will remain in the car until the 3 link is fully ready. It's much easier to cover a hole and run an old design than remove the old design, have the hole, and nothing to tie it all together...
Also will be taking delivery of a 2015 Explorer Sport next week (Thanks to Dave Irwin at Tyler Ford!!!)... Will be interesting to see how fast Trina's "daily driver" will be compared to Michael's '09 Mustang after it gets a tune and puts 335HP and 375TQ to all four tires...
speechless...
http://www.slate.com/articles/sports...driver_is.html
That's why you never let your anger overcome your common sense. Sad day for both parties. Bad thing is Stewart has to live with himself.
Took my car out to the Texas A&M Sports Car Club practice autocross on Saturday for some shake down runs. New motor felt strong and the car had some decent grip despite being on 3 year old RA1s. Big thanks to Gary for loaning my his trailer on short notice.
Still have a few odds and ends to finish up, buy a new(ish) trailer, and head to the dyno. Looking forward to getting back on track later this year.
You mean it's not Wade's car?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tilton
Glad to have you back... I was getting too close to the front.
I think you are trying to say 3yr old RA1's>Sticker RR's :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tilton
I will need to buy a set of tires soon enough... what's the consensus RA1 or RR? I just think it's going to rain every race.Quote:
Originally Posted by mach1
I was thinking the same question Dave. I was baffled at Hallett when the car felt worse than in the previous years, my times were about .5-.75 slower than the previous 3 years. Then I read that all the TT guys were killing their track records b/c of the new track surface this year.
Did anyone feel the RR's were faster? Could it be the RR's are faster on some tracks but slower on other tracks?
I do not claim to know anything about tire compounds but I know Bryan Curtis switched back to RA1's for both races Sunday and he said they felt better than his newer RR's. My RA1's have over 3 full events on them, and if they had been newer I would have definitely given them a shot to compare.
I am going to try both tires at NOLA, RR's with 8 heat cycles and RA1's with over 20 heat cycles, and see the time difference b/w both.
I also thought the RR's would have a big advantage when it comes to braking but I feel there is no difference in stopping performance. I wonder if this tire is similar to a Hoosier than runs great for the first couple of heat cycles and then starts falling off after 3 or 4 cycles.
Post up what you feel/find out data wise. I haven't been on RRs yet but don't see that they're consistently better. And if they like a smoother driving style, I should probably stay on the RA1s.Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelmosty
Same Same for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
JJ
Registered for a garage at TWS... I figure $4 for the option to register for the event later was worth it.
If you want a garage anyway, why not register for it now?
Getting close to the newest evolution of AI #67... decoupled three link.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...6a734cc3cf462b
answering the "how'd you do" question isn't always fun
You did fine. Better said, by all accounts YOU did fantastic.Quote:
Originally Posted by kbrewmr2
Now you and Liebbe can both raise a toast to the dyno horsepower adjustment that would have had you lap the field.
Dynos suck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
Had a major craving for chicken so took Mandy out and went to Babe's in Frisco. Love it when I get to drive that car :)
Need to find time to get the new side mirrors that Anna bought put on ...after insisting on keeping the original mirrors (to the point of flat mirror, no convex), Anna finally decided she wanted contemporary mirrors put on...I think it had a lot to do with me putting blind spot mirrors on so she could actually see! F'UGLY@@!!!
Of course she now is all about looks and chose some GT mirrors that are too small, so now I need to pull the doors, plug-weld the old holes and drill new holes for the new mirrors....gonna wait until I am ready to do a new paint job since the plug will look like shit otherwise....maybe over Christmas.
Went to flush the brakes on the Tundra with my trusty motive bleeder. First the universal adapter wasn't seated right so it shifted and spewed brake fluid everywhere. Clean that mess up and continue on until I hear fluid spewing again. This time a hose on the bleeder ruptured and made a mess. Replaced the hose and cleaned everything up, and finished the job.
Now I can't find the freaking master cylinder cap after an hour of scouring the engine bay and garage. Ended up getting a generic dorman cap gasket and duct taped it in place until I can get over to the dealer on the way to work in the morning to pick up a new cap.
Just baffled as to where the cap went, and how a simple flexible rubber cap that has been on Toyotas since the early 2000s isn't available in parts stores...
Took my turd off the trailer to make sure there's enough brake and tire and stuff to last through next weekend. The tow vehicle also received a newer style PCM. With the recent tweaks it's running stronger and even taunting me with increased fuel economy. The real test comes when I hook the trailer up. That pig weighs 4,600# empty!
I watched video of getting passed by an R... oh, and them passing him back for good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged111
I need to look Orange over before TWS... maybe wipe some dirt off the primer.
But the fact remains you got passed by an R! I've not seen this video of you passing this illustrious rookie though, he sounds quite amazing. I think we'd get along.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
You guys and your "oh I'm gonna pull the car off the trailer, check the brakes/tires and wipe some dirt off"
I'm >>>THIS<<<< close to finally being able to show up to a race without having to remove/repair/replace/redo a big chunk of my car...
In January...
2016Quote:
Originally Posted by Pranav
I neglect to mention I've temporatily given up chasing the reason why the car won't make the torque numbers because I'd rather just beat on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pranav
I don't know how you do it all the time. I'm about to go pull my transmission for the 5th time this year. I think while I'm under there, I might put some C4 under the car and be done with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pranav
Why so many issues? Thought T-56's were bullet proof.
Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty328
Call Tony at Astro he will take care of your issues.
JJ
Mark, what has been the failure? Synchros? The main issue with your setup is the rpms. Syncro's HATE shifting over 6500. Misty was rebuilding her T56 yearly until I found a good builder in San Antonio. Great build but had issues with heat even with a pump and cooler. We sold it and went Jerico. I ended up faceplating my T56 and love it...shifts fantastic at 7500 rpm. just not sure it's AI legal. If it is, you might be able to talk me out of it for about $2750...drop in and ready to rock and roll. Has 4 events on it. you might need a different clutch disc but I could include mine since the Jerico uses a 26 spline disc. I am thinking Jerico since we are putting one in Misty's car and honestly don't need the overdrives. It would be awesome if AI allows faceplating and you could be done with the issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty328
Don't the carbon blocker rings tolerate high RPM shifts better than the brass units?
On a side note, how long do your CMC pads last guys? My mind is blown here, I've run PPIR, PMP, Hallett (with a practice day), HPR, 2 practice days at PMP, and about to race at PMP next weekend. I still have enough pad to not check my brakes all next weekend. I never would have dreamed a set of Raybestos ST43 pads would do a whole season. Now the rotors on the other hand. . .
X2 Tony is the manQuote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt